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Marc F

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Posts posted by Marc F

  1. I have a complete GT6 mk2 backend on my car that will be removed shortly to fit one of Nick's beautifully engineered CV conversions - he did my hubs on an outright basis so my originals are still sitting there holding the wheels upright. So if you have no joy elsewhere, let me know - I had planned to sell the lot comp0lete. I am in Essex, which may influence your decision as they are heavy.

    All the best

    Marc

  2. Interesting the view points. I find it sad that parts get priced out of reach. I doubt these are the last available somehow, but if you guys are happy paying those prices then more power to you.  And the bmw bits sound complete - whereas the ebay is just for the inners. To that one has to add outer wings and the curved inner wheelatch panels. Very pricey.

    But I do have some mk3 spit wings if you're interested. My inner wings are for the later model so no good for you at the very back.

  3. I find that pricing quite sad really. I sold my set of these to an enthusiast who was rebuilding the back end and for 10% of that price. I know it is a free market blah blah blah but that is the price of a tatty running car. It will stop someone using them in an actual rebuild. Disappointing profiteering and i really hope they don't sell for that price.

    Our cars are for enthusiasts and it will be sad to see them priced out like this.

    I have the same but for the mk4/1500 sitting in my loft and when someone wants those for a build I will sell them sensibly. What a rip off

    But i am sure others will disagree with me

    Marc

  4. Don't tell me about the oil way hex plug - that was an "interesting" challenge. There is what appears to be a larger one below the distributor mount on the block that resists all efforts, but cannot see what purpose it serves

  5. I am looking for some spares, and wonder if anyone has any experience of buying HS2 parts from anyone other than Burlen. For example, I am looking at getting new shafts, and from a Mini supplier (first hot on google for me) they are significantly less than from Burlen. So as these are critical parts (the carbs, not just the spindles), does anyone have any good news/horror stories of where I should source my parts from.

    Thanks

  6. Yes, I did read it, but wasn't sure if you said ditch the gaskets throughout, or use a sealant with the head gasket.

    I googled some silicone sealants but temperatures don't look good for a cylinder head heat, so would be interested in the version you have used please.

  7. Thanks all.

    The engine is completely stripped down, including all core plugs and oilway cap bolts etc, so it will be thoroughly clean - I have an interesting selection of oilway brushes, jet washer, degreasing and cleaning chemicals etc.

    The head gasket is a Payen

    So I will oil the threads lightly - engine oil I presume.

    Interesting, if I understand the "Scottish" writing properly about not using any gaskets, just sealant. I am slightly "scared" of this approach as I am a traditionalist and just naturally assume gaskets are designed to work on our cars, so probably, unless someone else has a tested view, will run with the gasket set and blue sealant, but I may use black on less sensitive areas (for eg, my fuel pump is electric so I have a blanking plate, which seems ideal for sealant). In particular, I would have concerns about the head gasket as that seems kind of crucial  hence the Payen gasket. Using a sealant seems odd to say the least, and with my clumsiness I would worry about blocking an important hole or ruining the join or similar.

    Thanks all. Much appreciated. There is so much, often contradictory, advice on the web that I wanted to see what people using our engines are doing

    Marc

  8. Ok, so getting ready to put my Spit lump back together. But before I start I wanted to see what the (current) best practice view is on two subjects close to my heart:

    1) Gasket sealant - to use/not to use, and if so, on what gaskets. In particular, head gasket, but interested in views across the engine's various gaskets.

    2) Oiling threads before torqueing down - do it or not do it. My engine will have been completely cleaned, including the threads, so I am starting from a clean position.

    I have seen conflicting views, so wondered if there is a current definitive view.

    And anything else I need to consider please?

    Thanks

    Marc

  9. I have NOS rear wings and inner wings (not the round wheelarch panel, but the complete inner wing that goes from B post to rear of car) for both sides.

    Any interest? Where are you based as carriage will be expensive no doubt

  10. Very timely thread (if you will excuse the pun) as I need to refit all mine to a naked engine, and I am never sure I understand the process - I can line the piston up easily enough, but knowing where the camshaft needs to be is where I start to doubt myself. Happy to buy some dial gauges but is thre a step by step guide in idiot speak that I can follow.

    In English though please if possible - I find Scottish a bit difficult to make sense of sometimes, just as I found the Haynes manual guide to be no use. My camshaft gear wheel has no markings on it, so I need to basically start from first principles to get the car set up straight.

    Thanks

  11. They are ready to go now if you are interested in them - I will check the part numbers that show - the floor pan stayed the same throughout the build and I believe that the pile is early type, but could not swear to it.

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