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1968Vitesse25

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Posts posted by 1968Vitesse25

    Correcting the sump flange, to prevent leaks

    in Engine

    Posted

    Take a large ball bearing and put a divot in the mating face of the flange, dishing the flange up under each bolt head. As you tighten down the bolts,  the divots will flatten out giving you a true clamping face.

    Fit sump gasket with a bead of Hylosil 300 RTV

    no more sump leaks.

    E10 Petrol

    in Ten Countries Run (10CR)

    Posted

    Quoted from Andy Flexney
    Aaaaahhhh  doooom and gloooom

    best bring Brexit forward so we can go backwards quicker.

    God save good old 4 star leaded petrol!! (bursts into patriotic song)

    or you could just install neoprane seals and everything is fine, modern cars seem to survive on E10 why should a Triumph not?

    Or is it just the "modern" Triumphs that have problems? But again they are not "proper Triumphs are they 😉

    Andy



    Your modern car will have a plastic fuel tank, all synthetic seals and no brass in it's fuel system.


    mocal oil coolers

    in Engine

    Posted

    For breaking in an engine, you actually want a pretty 'poor' oil without all the Gucci modern anti wear additives to let the engine and most importantly the rings bed in. The ZDDP is to protect the cam during bed in.
    Most 'break in' oil is just that, a basic Dino oil with ZDDP.

    mocal oil coolers

    in Engine

    Posted

    Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo


    But the actual designs, technology, manufacturing etc have all changed.



    An engines an engine, it's the same principles.
    Coldest air in, hottest air out,

    We have a far better understanding of the physics, but it's all the same rules.
    Keep your coolant hot, but don't let your oil get too hot - and Triumphs pushrod engines have always had an issue with oil temperatures.
    A combination of a basically poor design stretched  far to far and a domestic market that didn't force mass manufacturers to address oil breakdown during high speed running. German and Italian cars of the period were far more durable thanks to their markets need to run on Autobahns and Autostrada.
    Triumph were well aware their engines had issues with oil temperatures when they started fitting as standard or offering oil coolers as a dealer fitment for cars being exported to the Continent and the USA in the 1960's.

    mocal oil coolers

    in Engine

    Posted

    Quoted from JohnD


    Just been looking for some, but all I can find is in the US, and the shipping price is more than the product.   I note that many oil makers, including Lucas Oils, now offer a break-in oil, ready mixed.
       Either this is a well-copied marketing move, or some regulation is preventing the additive being sold, and all that is left in stock, is old stock.

    John


    It has to be sold as 'for racing use'. Product liability and all that good stuff. It poisons catalytic converters.

    mocal oil coolers

    in Engine

    Posted

    Quoted from scotty71
    thank gents for the reply's. I have tried different oils to see which ones could help, being I was using a 10/40 grade. but in slow traffic to Farnham car show the oil light started to glow. so now up the grade to 20/50 and now opted to run an oil cooler.
    the engine is ok with 20/50 grade, and the oil light has not come back on. pressure is good.


    10/40's too thin for the clearances. 20/50 is the right grade - Valvolines racing mineral oil gets a lot of positive feedback. An oil cooler gets you a couple of pints extra oil capacity.

    mocal oil coolers

    in Engine

    Posted

    Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo
    Comparing a Triumph to a modern car is a bit like chalk and cheese, or apples and oranges etc.


    The laws of engineering applies exactly the same to a 1907 De Dion as a 2017 Ferrarri..

    mocal oil coolers

    in Engine

    Posted

    Scott's post say his car runs hot. An oil cooler is always a worthwhile fitment on any Triumph in these days of much higher densities of slow traffic and faster motorways. Adds a bit of extra oil capacity and disperses a useful amount of extra heat from the engine.
    Triumph either fitted one as standard or offered it as an option on export cars going to countries with higher tempereatures or motorways in the long off days when we only had the Preston bypass. Most modern cars have one too.

    Brake caliper upgrade?

    in Running Gear

    Posted

    Quoted from Andy Flexney


    1968Vitesse25,

    you obviously missed the point, which tells me you are only looking at one small piece of the jigsaw and not the whole.

    If you put on better brakes you will need to put on better (wider, stickier) tyres to get that braking power onto the road. By putting on bigger tyres you are straining the already weak suspension mountings and wheel bearings even more and therefore you will need to replace them more often.

    Perhaps the Triumph TR brakes are superior to the small chassis Triumphs but I doubt it. The TR brakes will out brake the tyres and the chassis without any problem. So really before you go putting on super brakes for a road car you should start by strengthening the chassis and suspension mountings so they can take the strain of better brakes and stickier tyres.

    Andy



    The  small chassis suspension isn't terribly weak. Ball joints and bearings are shared with the much bigger, heavier and more powerful TR6. So either the small chassis cars bearings are over strong, or the TR6 is running on borderline bearings, and the TR6 runs much bigger and wider wheels than a Spitfire.
    Triumph spent the 60's into the 70's fitting successively wider avd grippier tyres to the small cars. We saw them move from narrow crossplies on skinny rims to 155 or 165 section radials on 5.5" rims at the end, a whole world of difference in grip.

    Brake caliper upgrade?

    in Running Gear

    Posted

    Quoted from Andy Flexney
    do you really think the highly paid engineers at Triumph got it wrong

    P.S. Mintex M1144 pads are readily available.


    Yes, they were always budget constrained.

    Quoted from Andy Flexney


    I would suggest there is little to gain by changing brake disc or pad size. Pad material might be different and moving to a fast road material might improve your brakes partially. However, if your tyres are not up to it then there is no point?


    Triumph were constantly upgrading the brakes of their small cars. The Dolomite Sprint came with brakes that were terminally underspecced.

    Quoted from Andy Flexney
    d
    If your standard brakes are set up correctly you should be able to bloke all 4 wheels. If not then either your tyres are not standard or your brakes are not set up correctly. If you are using larger/sticker tyres be aware of the wheel bearing as they are not designed for these and they need checking regularly. Good wheel bearings cost up to £100 and if you are having to change these several times a year then there is no saving in buying cheaper pads.
    .


    If you are nocking out a couple of sets of wheel bearings a year, its nothing to do with your brakes.

    Quoted from Andy Flexney
    d
    My experience is that Triumph did a pretty good job of designing cars and we amateurs usually don't do a better job.
    .


    They did the best they could with the non existent budget and severe parts bin constraints they had, but all the old engineers freely admitted, they could have done far better if they were allowed to spend some money.


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