Matthew

Deposit taken

1970 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 for sale.

The car has been partially restored by myself and, more-so, the previous owner and is solid throughout. The only welding required is a small (2 inch square) hole near the rear bumper mount on the passenger rear wing and some very small holes around the inner rear wings where they join the top of the valance (see the photo of the bare metal valance. This is now painted). The bulkhead has been given a couple of costs of the original body colour (white) and is currently stripped of the master cylinders, wiring etc. so those need finishing and put back on before the car can be started. The boot lid is a new seconds lid that needs tidying up from light transit damage at the top left corner. The bodywork was stripped to bare metal and treated with phosphoric acid prior to painting with a zinc oxide primer. It has been garaged throughout. Sills, floor plans, bulkhead and boot floor all solid and have been repaired or replaced to a good standard. There are some dents in the rear wings and front edge of the bonnet that require pulling out that I hadn’t got too. I’d removed the filler when sanding black so can confirm it is solid metal.

The engine hasn’t been fired for roughly 3 years but does turn by hand. It is not the original engine but is an FD block and is correct on the V5. The brakes are seized on so need releasing before the car can be moved. The car will need trailering away.

I’d say the car is about 90% complete but will mainly need nuts and bolts, some interior trim and a carpet set. The seats need recovering but the frames are ok. Other bits may need replacing as you go along. Will need a new hood too.

Selling as I don’t currently have the time and health to complete so selling to buy something I can use now requiring less work.

I’ll add more photos in the next day or two when I can

We are in Stafford near junction 14 of the M6.

£1500 or near offer. I do have some spares requiring reconditioning to throw in too such as brake calipers and hubs. Selling an alternator conversion kit and new exhaust separately but will consider bundling at the right price for the car.

Please message me if interested.

18 minutes ago, Amy Wade said:

If they're small crank engines I'd go for one of these, the only differences I can think of are the cam profile (use the FD engine cam) & the compression ratio (use the head from the FD engine). I can't remember if the small crank herald engine has cam bearings, it's not a big deal if it doesn't but if you want to have them you could get the block line bored. If I've forgotten any other differences, I'm sure someone will point them out...

 @Matthew it's entirely down to you as to what you do, I'm just trying to minimise your expense. 

Thanks for all of your advice Amy. I’ll have a think about what to do.

21 hours ago, Amy Wade said:

Hi Matthew, 

What do you mean when you say you're looking for cylinder liners? On the standard engine the cylinders are bored in the block casting therefore there wouldn't normally be liners & the usual places wouldn't list them. If you're looking for dry liners to rescue a damaged bore, you need to take the block to your local engine machinist. They will find a suitable dry liner, bore the block to suit the liner & then bore the liner to suit the piston. It's a lot of work & if the block can just be rebored I would recommend doing that, you'll save yourself a lot of money. Obviously if it's already at its maximum oversize you will have to have liners fitted or find another engine. 

I hope that helps, 

Amy

I'm talking from experience, engine reconditioning was my day job 25 years ago.

Thanks everyone for the comments, particularly Amy. Yes, it is the dry liners I’m looking for as the block I’ve acquired has already been bored to it’s maximum. I’m trying to learn how the engine goes together and have question marks over the one in the car given the ‘interesting’ approaches to repairs I keep uncovering and only having seen it run when it was driven off the trailer and into the garage.

The second unit I’m trying to put together I‘m intending having machined and converted for unleaded running is currently composed of the block and cylinder head. I need to find an engine machinist nearby (Stafford) and see what they say but I’m hoping to be able to put this one together.

My approach may make no sense (rather than taking the existing unit out) but I’m using this to learn the internals as I go along. That said, what sort of price would be reasonable for lining the block and converting the head for unleaded?

Standardthread, thanks for the offer. I’ll see what the view is on this one as it is an FD block and get back to you if interested.

Hi.

As the title suggests, I’m looking for a set of 4 cylinder liners for a Spitfire Mk3 FD prefix engine. I’m struggling to find them available from the usual suppliers.

Any help gratefully received. If you’ve got some available, even better.

Thanks

Matthew

Thanks Paul. I’ll give it a look when I get chance. It isn’t the original engine so hopefully it is a hangover from the previous unit.

On 28/06/2023 at 14:52, drofgum said:

Matthew,

You are right that nut doesn't belong there. It is a bad sign. A common reason to add length to the push rod is to make the clutch release when the engine thrust washers have failed and dropped into the sump. You should check the end play of the crank shaft. If it is more than barely noticeable the thrust washers are badly worn. If it is something over 1mm the thrust washers probably are in the sump. When they drop, the crank rubs directly on the  engine block when the clutch pedal is depressed. That does the crank and block no good whatsoever.

I hope you are lucky enough to find I'm wrong.

Regards,

Paul

Finally had time to do some work on the Spitfire after what feels like an eternity. I’ve painted the bulkhead in the car’s original Triumph White and have started cleaning up all the ‘furniture’ to go back on it so that I can look to get the car running again. This is the first time I’ve seen the car wearing its actual colour as I bought it in surface rust covered primer, so this feels like a milestone hit.

When dismantling the clutch master cylinder to fit an overhaul kit, I noticed something I don’t think should be there - the nut at the bottom of the picture was inside (as though it was a spacer to the pushrod, assuming that is the right name). I’m guessing this isn’t right?

Update: Now sold.
 

Spitfire Mk3 boot lid free to a good home. It is in need of a fair bit of work but could make a useable boot lid for someone who can fabricate the sections that will need replacing (side of the inner strengthening panel which the mechanism bolts to and the lower fold below the lock). I have got an inner frame for it too but will be keeping the lock mechanism and bolts for my new lid.

The holes and grommets for the Triumph lettering and Sptifire Mk3 badges are there too but I will be reusing the badges themselves.

Collection from Stafford (J14 of M6) or can send with a courier at your cost - I will need to know when they are collecting to fit around work schedule but have the packaging off my replacement one so will sort that side of it.

Feel free to ask any questions

On 12/10/2022 at 16:03, Colin Claridge said:

Original Triumph Motor Co workshop manual part No. 511243.

Offered free to interested party

 

Hi Colin

I'd be up for it if you've still got it? Thanks

Hi Jason.

I was in a similar situation with my Mk3 Spitfire, which I think is the same as for your GT6. I eventually managed to get one off eBay that can just about do as a template. I might not be able to do it imminently but could try sort a template off it, of if you're local (I'm in Staffordshire) you could drop by and give it a look?

Matthew

Update: Taking advantage of my week off to strip the bulkhead back to bare metal, treat it and then get some paint on. So far I've managed to remove everything with only one sheared bolt, and the black underseal (I think) is coming away nicely with white spirit.

Photos for before and where I'm at.

Have put myself forward. Hoping to make good progress in the coming weeks and have some content to write

Complete stripping of Spitfire shell back to bare metal, treat remaining rust (thankfully not a lot) and then get a coat of primer on until my next week off where I can start sorting any defects in the body.

No problem. Thanks

1 hour ago, Amy Wade said:

Hi peeps, 

I'm in the process of breaking a Spitfire 1500 & I'm offering most bits for sale to any reasonable offer.

The tub is well on its way to reverting to its natural state & is beyond economic repair, as is the drivers door.

The bonnet is scabby but no holes (not sure if holes would appear if the scabs were poked). It's probably salvageable, I've seen worse on cars that are on the road. 

The boot lid isn't holed but there is rust on the inner structure & there are loose flakes inside, again I don't think it's beyond repair. 

The passenger door skin has a scrap on the front bottom corner & a dent in the middle, the main structure of the door is really solid with just some minor rust, it's definitely salvageable either by fixing the existing skin or fitting a new skin.

All I'm looking for is the price of a drink for any of the bits, I'm not going to try to be greedy, if there’s any little bits for a spitfire you need PM me & if it's available & usable we can sort something out. Collection from Oxfordshire for all the big bits, can sort post any little bits. 

I'd rather as much of the car is used to keep others on the road but I can't keep the big bits for long & will end up scrapped if no one asks for them. 

Hi Amy

Don't suppose you have any door cappings at all? I'll have a think if there is anything else and let you know if that's OK? I've got a MK3 so having to think what I need and what will therefore cross over.

Thanks

Matthew

On 19/10/2021 at 19:50, Ben Hutchings said:

Ok @Spider and @Topic63 I'll have a look tomorrow, I'm pretty sure there aren't loads left, most if not all Nuts and Washers. Would you both DM me your addresses please. 

Cheers. 

Hi Ben. It’s a long shot, but do you still have anything left over? If so, I’d be interested.

Thanks

Matthew

As a new member to the club, I’d like to introduce you to my 1970 Mk3 Spitfire. It is a bit of an unknown in terms of its history but the previous owner had already carried out a large proportion of the bodywork repairs, so thankfully this is a very solid car. It arrived covered in surface rust-covered primer, but after a few days in the garage over Christmas is now back to bare metal. This will imminently be treated with phosphoric acid and then primed before further repairs are completed. The engine is running but the brakes are seized.

In the photos you will see my initial attempt at making a fresh dash with walnut veneer. I’m not fully satisfied with it so will have another go in the future.

Hello. The car is looking great! Just wanted to say a big thank-you to everyone on the stand for how supportive and friendly you all were - it is why I have now joined the club!