D412REN

Hi all 

hand brake on if I move the passenger or driver side wheel forward and back slightly 

I get a very small amount of knocking noise sounds like your tapping metal on metal 

checked all the most common stuff  but can’t find it any help will be much appreciated 

many thanks Darren. 

2 hours ago, Matt306 said:

Yep those are anti burst catches. If not fitted you should find dimples on b post and door to add them

The holes are there already 

but not been put back on when restored 

☹️

11 hours ago, Matt306 said:

If its a convertible, I imagine its the anti burst catch which stops the doors from opening when the chassis flex. Similar ones are installed on a lot of the convertible cars. 

Rimmers have nice diagrams as do Canley classics so you can reference which part you need.

If it is striker plates on the b post I think I may have some.

I think it should be a pair of these 

On my 13/60 convertible I’ve been told there is other striker plates required 

on both front doors

the car was fully restored back between 1989-1991 

and were never refitted 

trying to find a part number also if anyone as a picture of both sides as cannot find anything on the web 

many thanks 

Darren. 

Hi all 

just a bit of info 

if your tank sender units gives up 

peel these 3 tabs over and you’ll see the broken wire 👍

it’s only the thin piece of wire that attaches the sensor to lift arm 

this is a hair line wire 

which I updated it to copper 1.3 mm and works perfectly fine. 
many thanks 

Darren. 

16 hours ago, Clive said:

I think paddocks have them new, but give fitchetts a call as I think they make them, and are usually well priced (but no proper website, but they are good on the phone)

Check the type of sender you have, locking ring or screws. 

Link to Paddocks

https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/fuel-tank-locking-ring-type-3

 

Of course, I should add that if yours is not leaking, it is possible to get them clean inside. Takes a bit of effort, or a cement mixer helps speed it up. I did my spitfire tank which has been fine since. 

Thanks for the information 

clive I’ve been on the phone 1/2 of today no one as one anywhere 

the earliest I can get a new one is 31st august 

paddock says there got them but you click on purchase it states no stock 😢 

I’ve filled it with nuts bolts washers 30ltrs of white vinegar

carbonate soda and stuck it in the cement mixer and it’s sorted it

now can’t get the pig to start

carb strip tomorrow 🙈  

I will buy a new one if anyone as one or if not a very good secondhand one with no rust inside. 
urgently required.
many thanks  

7 hours ago, Adrianb said:

This won’t be the best technical answer you’ll get but presuming you’ve undone all the retaining nuts and released the bottom pipes that leaves the top filler pipe! Which can be a bugger! So climb in the boot and give some wrangling in all directions to break the rubber seal, with a bit of luck it will then come out simples! Well that’s what the blind man did!

Get in the BOOT 😂😂 I’m 6’5 🙈 there’s no hope for that. 

I’m having really bad trouble to remove the fuel tank someone as stated it’s a Vitesse tan that is fitted in the boot. 
just cannot get it to budge any help will be much appreciated 

many thanks 

Darren. 

37 minutes ago, Clive said:

You don't say which car. 

🙄

herald 13/60 1970 

long day today sorry 

Am I thinking 

the upper ball joint is the same as the lower ? 
many thanks 

Darren. 

***** update *****

I bought a brand new voltage regulator from evil bay 

put on on Wednesday 

and yes the light is still on 

I bought a second hand unit on market place 

for 5.00 at it works fine 

the chap on eBay said 100% genuine Lucas 

100% total 💩 

look on the base made in china 😳🙈☹️
many thanks 

Darren. 

Thanks for the info people 

I managed to get some gates fuel pipe ordered from local factors. 
all fitted job done 

many thanks 

Darren. 

Hi all 

anyone got one sitting in the shed or garage they don’t want

and want to sell me 

plus also be willing to post please postage and packaging will be paid for 

many thanks 

Darren. 

I no there’s a thing on Google 

how many left BUT is that actually correct 

does anyone else you no. 
also is there a chassis plate detailed information as of what colour your wheels were when it left the factory. 
interior colour 

trim level etc etc.  
just curious to no as I’d like to put it back to how it’s supposed to be 

as I like them as they were when they left the factory. 
many thanks 

Darren. 

I need to no what size fuel pipe I’ll need to purchase 

as some stupid person as used vacuum hose as fuel line 🙈

I gather the pipe coming out the top of the tank is the main feed to pump 

then from the pump yet again vacuum pipe 🙈

but also did not have anything the correct sizes as it’s different both sides 

is there a proper fuel line for this or is it a gamble 

many thanks 

Darren.  🍻👍

15 hours ago, RobPearce said:

It's a little hard to diagnose from just that description. Misfire under load could be a weak spark or poor mixture. That might be down to the coil, the points, the condenser, the fuel pump, the mixture settings, lack of dashpot oil, clogged pipes, rubber slivers, pinholes or several other things.

The fuel feed from the tank is the hose from the top of the reserve lever.

Thanks rob 

for your input I found it to have a dodgy fuel line plus I’ve bought a carb rebuilt kit 

many thanks 

Darren. 

I own a 13/60 1970 

it idles really great 

I took for a drive today 

and under load 2nd gear put my foot down and it coughs and splutters. 
can any one help 

also we’re is the fuel feed from the tank I can a reserve flip over but nothing else. 
many thanks 

Darren. 

1 hour ago, PeteStupps said:

Yeah the light will stay on if either of the connections on the dynamo are loose or disconnected.

@D412REN, there should be two cables attached to the rear of the dynamo: a brown&yellow cable at the top plus a brown&green smaller one lower down. Check they are both present and tight on the terminals. Sometimes the spade connectors get loose and need squashing tighter.

If they're both there and connected up, you've either got an issue with the control box (black plastic rectangle thing on bulkhead) or the dynamo.

I'd look at the dynamo first. You'll probably have to remove it to see, but have a look down the rear end of it and see if you can see two black carbon squares (brushes) held in by springs, either side pressing against the copper armature (which spins around). These wear out and stop making contact with the armature, and it's also possible that they are present but the springs aren't located correctly or that the wires have chafed and broken. I'll dig my spare dynamo out and take a photo, which will hopefully be clearer than this explanation...!

Yes I have the thick brown and yellow plus a small brown and yellow underneath I have put brass connectors back on with rubber boots. 
the dynamo is brand new. 
so I’ve ordered a new voltage regulator. 
when I removed the top today the valve to the right 

if I push it down the light goes off. 
but then comes back straight away. 
thanks for the info 

Darren. 

WANTED 

Rear back part of the seat please if anyone as one for sale 

will pay postage and packaging etc 

forgot to add it’s red 

pleats go vertical if they were both ways. 
many thanks 

Darren. 

22 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

Do you know if it's running a dynamo or alternator? Either way, whichever one of these devices driven by the fanbelt isn't putting out power so your battery isn't getting charged.

Check for loose / unattached cables in the first place. If it's a dynamo it may have a broken or missing brush. Or could be a couple of other things. Does the warning light change if you rev the engine, or is it solidly on whatever happens?

No it stays the same. ?

13 hours ago, RobPearce said:

As Darren said, it could be several things, so we need more information. Is it a dynamo or alternator? If you're not sure how to tell, post a photo of the engine bay (preferably from the front left) and we'll be able to tell you.

Dynamo 

9 hours ago, Velocita Rosso said:

Broken small gauge wire from source to ign lamp is either broken or not connected

What colour cable would that be please

many thanks. 
darren. 

8 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

Do you know if it's running a dynamo or alternator? Either way, whichever one of these devices driven by the fanbelt isn't putting out power so your battery isn't getting charged.

Check for loose / unattached cables in the first place. If it's a dynamo it may have a broken or missing brush. Or could be a couple of other things. Does the warning light change if you rev the engine, or is it solidly on whatever happens?

The light is permanently on 

thanks. 
Darren. 

1 minute ago, Adrianb said:

Hi,Looks in good nick you will get a lot off help on this forum, keep us informed how she’s going.

Thanks 

I appreciate your comment 

the car was fully restored in 1989 and was then left in a garage since 1994 

we’re it stood for 28 years. 
I’ve changed the brake master front callipers ✅

carb rebuild kit ✅

I'm going to need a few bits if you no anyone who can help with those. 
also does anyone no what the colour code would be yes I no it’s green 😂🙈

it’s only come with the paperwork for the restoration and a old v5 ☹️
no hand books etc 

I also have a pull switch on the dash that looks like adjustable steering column but I can’t see it having that myself

any information will be much appreciated

just added some more pictures the paint is very good 

just loads of elbow grease to get it how it is  

many thanks

Darren.  

What do I need 

it’s for a 13/60 1970 

thanks 

Darren. 

Thanks for feeling welcome 

I will be looking for some parts soon if anyone can help me with them. 
many thanks 

Darren.