TRTOM2498

2 hours ago, Boxofbits said:

Hi Triumphers

After a few months in err ‘dry’ storage finally found cause of engine noise and down on power which suddenly appeared on the Friday night of the RBRR and put us in some doubt of continuing. However, we decided to get very wet and press on!

Today, hooked the timing cover off and found a piece of chain tensioner floating around inside which explains the rattle.  I’m guessing this would’ve left the valve timing to go all over the place too hence down on power. Could’ve been a lot worse but crack on now and get it repaired and ready - it’s a promising start to Feb!

Picking up the cylinder head next week hopefully from Peter Burgess for valving and porting work so should be back in action soon. 

Anyone else fitted a 22% overdrive to these and is it worth it?

Thanks 

Kevin 

 

Hi Kevin,

If you already have an A-type o/d gearbox, which would be correct for your car, (optional when new) it should be a 22% as standard.  If you currently have a non o/d car, and like using it, which I can see you do with the RBRR, then an A-type o/d (22% o/d) is worth every penny, and will transform the drive beyond all belief.

If you already have a 22% o/d, and want to reduce the revs further, you can get a 25% or even 28% o/d, by having it converted. ORS in Sheffield would be my suggestion of who to talk to in this regard.

If you have a standard engine, I would just stick with the 22%, should be more than sufficient.

Cheers.

15 hours ago, thescrapman said:

I suspect most cars for sale will have issues, I have noticed that standards seem to have dropped as people just say “ well it’s an old car, they all have poor (insert non working part)”

If you want a good car, buy a solid basis and work to get it up to spec.

Buying a car with no issues is going to be expensive, and it will still have things not right.

If all that is wrong with that one is engine and brakes, but rest is very good, I would probably buy it and get mending, it will probably cost more than increase in value 

My sentiments entirely.  Folk say as a rule, they all break down, overheat, or have Lucas fuel injection issues, & so on.  They do not !  Once fully sorted by someone experienced, they are as reliable as any modern motor car. 

Hi Gary,

As above, if the block is rendered useless, due thrust washers, there are plenty of blocks out there.  You can always have the replacement block re-faced and engine numbers re-stamped.

Difficult to know what it will cost until stripped.  I know something for sure.  If you try to save a £1 rebuilding one, it will cost £10 down the line.  There are no short-cuts to a successful engine build.

Good luck.

Cheers.

I took Cosumph for an MOT just before Christmas.  Discovered i'd done just over 1000 miles in the year. Hope to put a few more miles on it this year, that's it if stops raining !

On 06/11/2023 at 22:28, Shepsy said:

Whoa! What spec would that include regarding the following?

Cylinder head?

Block and crank?

Fuel delivery?

Ignition?

Exhaust?

Overhaul costs?

 

Modified head- ports, chamber, CR, etc.

Ribbed block, from the later 2.5l cars.

Standard crank.

Steel rods (Carrillo)

Webers / Lucas PI / EFI. 

Standard dizzy / 123 / coil packs.

TLE exhaust manifold.

2.5" exhaust.

Not sure on rebuild costs, as the motor was built in 2011, and not been touched since.

They are a remarkably strong engine.

On 04/11/2023 at 21:18, Shepsy said:

Richard B.

 I have the option of a 3.63 diff available.

What does the 2.5 unit rev to?

Pete.

A well sorted one, carefully built with good quality components will see 7500rpm regularly.

2 hours ago, Anthony said:

Would anybody happen to have a couple of +40 County Flat-top pistons for a 2.5 engine?

I only need two, so don't want to buy a full set if I don't need to.

Thanks,

Anthony.

Can you not buy them individually ?

NGK BP6ES are more than adequate from standard to a tuned motor. You should have no issues with these plugs in a TR6.

1 hour ago, Graham Baggaley said:

Just finished putting together my 3a. 
doing the 500 mile shake down at the moment. Plenty of gremlins so far. 
need to make a roof and sidescreens but other than that we’re good to go 😂

Very pretty.

On 08/08/2023 at 07:39, Jason said:

What was the outcome of getting these pumps rebuilt? I'm all for a better, more durable water pump, the number of failures of late seems very high.

Jase,

The odd NOS water pump do pop up on eBay.

I have one fitted, been on since 2009, when the car was first returned to the road. Still nice and quiet and no leaks. 

Getting some miles on CVB6H last Sunday, with a trip to Mallory Park, with Tom B, in his recently acquired TR6.  We went to see Clive racing his lovely GT6 MK2., 2.0L Lucas PI. He won his class !

15 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Just had good news, my engine for the Saloon will be ready for collection a week on Saturday. Then 'throw' it into the car and vroom vroom!

Hi Tim,

Great news.

Are you keeping it on twin carbs ?

Diff removed from CVB6H, to investigate a broken LSD and noise. After a strip down of the diff & LSD, it was clear to see a broken clutch pack kit.  One was broken into several pieces, the other was fractured.  I had already purchased a new clutch pack kit in advance, so that was OK.  The debris from the LSD, had damaged the small front pinion bearing, to the extent it had broken through the case hardening, creating a noisy bearing.  With that all changed, and new output seals, gasket, fresh Millers Motorsport 75w 90NT competition transmission oil, & Red Line LSD additive, it was time to road test. It revealed all OK, so CVB6H has now returned to the road. The LSD unit was brand new back in 2006, and has never had a new clutch pack kit, so has done exceptionally well, all things considered. A drive down to get the car repaired, with no LSD, reminded why I run an LSD !

I decided to fit a period, Yellow, alloy backed rear number plate, with Black, raised letters. It's nice to have the period look 🙂

Also fitted the Ford twin cam badge, & BMW competition directly beneath it.

As above, I would stick with the original Stag seats.

TR6 seats are fine, providing they have not been rebuilt, as you sit in them, not on them.  Still run them in both of my cars, but with a 4-point harness !

Cheers.

I have a TR4 & TR6, so here are my comments: It has been a while since I last drove the TR4 (22 years), & whilst the TR4 is prettier to look at, I prefer driving the TR6, certainly on any driving events.  Why ? Well, the IRS makes the ride much more comfortable and complaint, especially on today's roads. The engine is much smoother, more powerful, and sounds like a sports car.  The overall drive is more effortless, and I think you would get out of the car, feeling a bit more refreshed than a TR4.

Both are great cars, in different ways. A TR4a will have a more comfortable ride Vs a TR4, but there is no substitute for CC's !

Cheers.

On 12/12/2022 at 10:51, Tim Bancroft said:

Mr Keys, no Ford engined cars are allowed at all!

Nothing to worry about, Tim. CVB6H everytime ! 🙂

Looking forward to it already 🙂

18 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

James Cooper's lovely TR6 graces the cover this month. Bought for £8k as a bit of a wreck, now one very sorted car.

Did you read the article about some, Black, scruffy looking TR6, too ?

Hi Wendy,

Good to meet you at the NEC show, and good luck with the Herald.  You have really transformed it mechanically and aesthetically, looking at the pictures.  Good luck with the o/d installation in March next year.

Thank you also for the various pictures. Here is another one.

TR6: CVB6H- LSD rebuild kit has arrived. Now time to fit it in for rebuild.

TR6: CNU346L- Wash it after a recent Wales trip and clean up for the NEC show in a couple of weeks. Will try & squeeze and MOT in before then, too.

Penrite 20/60 will be perfectly adequate here, & holds its viscosity very well.

A great dirty, 400 mile weekend in Wales last weekend.  First big trip since acquisition. Went well, but further refinements required ideally.  Work in progress.

Plenty of mid-range punch though.

On 11/10/2022 at 13:40, mpbarrett said:

just wondering where people get there anti roll bar links from? 
The ones on my Herald don't seem to last very long and I think the 10CR has killed them (now lots of play in the rubber). 
I notice Rimmerbros do some uprated ones with 2 ball joints, but at a price, anyone tried them?
Or are there alternatives, maybe rose joints?
What do others use?

cheers

mike

You want to try the CDD ball jointed AR links. I have them on my Cosworth 6- very good.

The rose-jointed ones can be noisy- FYI.

Cheers.

Out & about at the weekend.