Hogie

Put whatever you want in your brakes.

Good bye.

Hi Stan,

you are correct  about Hygroscopic.   

However people do not read the punctuation just the words.

It is  not mineral in  any form.

Roger

23 hours ago, standardthread said:

That's why i ALWAYS ram the brake pedal hard when I first get in the car, before I start the engine or move the car, having suffered a single brake line failure (before I moved the car) due to a pipe rusting, either through external corrosion, and/or the hygroscopic nature 'mineral' type fluids. 

I also suffered a similar failure in a Dolomite clutch line because the cast iron slave cylinder had rusted internally specifically because of the 'mineral' fluid. And, don't they use silicon fluids in F1 cars?

EVERY body - please, please, please stop calling DOT4   MINERAL  it is NOT. It is a synthetic oil based on Glycol-Ether.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

Very few cars use Mineral oil (no DOT  Spec - however Aerospace is DTD585)

If you put mineral oil in our cars then your seals will fail quickly - honest.

Although DOT5 Silicone is not     Hygroscopic    Hydroscopic  it will take on water as does any liquid open to the elements.

Your pipes can still rust.

Roger

16 hours ago, glang said:

Must say Im quite surprised many seem to have changed fluids over so casually - these are your BRAKES and generally single line systems so any failure and there could be big problems plus possibly some explaining to do afterwards😯

+1

Just to clarify MINERAL brake fluid is NOT used in any TRiumph.

Citroen, Rolls and many aircraft up to the late 60's use mineral  but no cars.

If you are concerned about your seals deteriorating then add mineral fluid - it will take a day  or so but you will have no brakes.

Roger

If you are charging a dead battery then you will probably find a modern charger will not do the job.

Find and keep an OLD tech charger.

Roger

Hi Steve,

for surface rust I use a simple sanding disc (60 grit) to get the lighter stuff off - usually OK for most surface rust.

For slightly deeper I like the fibrous wheel (Drongo wheel) in the second pic above. This gets the more deeper seated/harder rust off.

If you want to go deeper I use Bilthambers DeOxC. For a vertical panel you would need to keep swabbing it with wire wool.

I haven't found a gel that works yet.

The converters should work.

After the mechanical work wash with one of the converts to stop what you can't see.

Roger

Do you want it or not.

Roger

That is a nice simple circuit using a simple switch  - excellent.

Nice drawing of the circuit.

Roger

Hi Martin,

I have found the radio. It is in as new condition.

Send me your address and I'll get it to you.

Roger

Last Thursday I went to the Silver Ball cafe on the A10 near Royston for a nice drive out and a spot of lunch.

Driving along the A10 I found two very large Red Deer (I think) in the hedgerow. About 1 mile  apart and both very dead.

Whatever hit them would have had significant damage.

At the cafe there were two Trojan micro cars and a Durkoff 1957 scooter - all three in concours condition.

The TRojans were an Isetta shaped bubble car in red and a Messerschmidt shaped micro.

All three were stunning.

Roger 

On 14/10/2022 at 16:59, Martins Stag said:

Can anyone recommend a period looking but modern featured radio? I'd like to use my iPod, DAB would be good, it needs to be a DIN mounted rather than spindles and ideally it would be about to Bluetooth to my phone and be able to work hands free. 

The car is a 76 Stag I want something that looks period but is usable

Any advice? 

HiMartin,

back in March I bought what I thought was a classic looking radio that fitted by its front knobs.

Sadly this is not so. It is a standard DIN fitting.  It has all the features you are describing.

It is not good to me. If you PM me your address I will post it to you.  FOC

They are no longer on EBay so I can't post an easy pic

Roger

Hi Simon,

two wheels are good - try here https://www.thetriumphforum.com/forums/

Roger

I have a fresh supply of brave pills

Roger

2 hours ago, Tim Hunt said:

Is that perhaps the voice of experience Roger?  😬

yes - but thankfully only my wifes foot.

Roger

That toe nail may be a gonner in a few days

Roger

Please be careful ALL manufacturers make different qualities of the same part number and then are sold at whatever price for the job.

So the very best tolerance bearing will be for the highest quality requirement

The worst tolerance will be for general purpose.

Cheap does not equal bargain. Unless it is for your soap box.

Roger

Hi M2V,

The DR3 style motor is quite useless no matter what vehicle it comes from.

Your 6 wire DR3 sounds as though it may have a reverse park mode.

The slow speed is useful only in light showers and the fast speed runs out of torque.

I had one on my 4A and spent a fortune trying to get it working as I wished -it never did.

It   died on the Isle of Lewis and I  ended up with the wiper  blades being operated by my wife in the pax seat pulling strings. 

When I got home I fitted the 14W motor (TR6/LandRover).  This requires a dedicated toggle switch but recently I have been able to modify the original 2 speed pull switch.

The slow speed is useful in all but the heaviest down pour. The fast speed is fast - Hmmmmm

Roger

That is a nice car.

Roger

12 hours ago, Craig said:

I will see if my local Lidl has them. 

I am going to try cutting 1mm thick wriggly tin sheets. I was going to go with a 1mm cutting disc in my angle grinder, but that scares the bejesus out of me, as some of the cuts are 2 metres in length.

Angle grinder, 1mm plasma cutter disc, goggles, ear protectors. - no problem

Roger

If you are doing long cuts then a metal shear may be  better 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Metal-Cutting-Shears-AT022/dp/B006B3OX8A

But they don't nibble

Roger

Hi Folks,

I do not know what type/style your engine mounts are but on my TR4A I got fed up with the usual suspects selling junk I went for Land Rover via this supplier  www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk

Long lasting. However they do have an M8 attachment stud.

Roger

We do the most scary things, rush here and there not realising how delicate our existence is on this planet.

Gone in a flash.

I never met Nuala but read post of her posts and she came over bubbling with enthusiasm.

Rest in Peace Nuala.

Roger

On 26/07/2022 at 21:08, Gt6s said:

2nd OD eats the shit out of the OD clutch EXPENSIVE !

+1

Roger

For an upholsterer that is an easy repair (have you ever darned a sock).

For the split use a smallish curved needle and pick up on the remnants of the fabric left behind.

Or if you can locate the the holes in the leather go for them.

For the ciggy burn use black thread and as per the sock - darn it.

If you can use a thick upholsterers thread then that will outlast you.

Roger