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Posts posted by Hogie
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Here is some 10mm (nearly 3/8 )
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10MM-X-7-5MTR-CUPRO-NICKEL-KUNIFER-BRAKE-FUEL-PIPE-/360131991793?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53d98a18f1
Roger -
I think the Hammerite paint today is a poor reflection on the stuff originally formulated. Rubbish stuff, not worth the money.
You need a mildly heat resistant paint that is not affected by brake fluid. A good two pack would work or an acrylic with two pack lacquer/top coat.
Roger -
Hi Ted,
the standard 'etch' primer does contain phosphoric acid as that is the etchant.
Interestingly, the etchant isn't there to stop/remove rusting but to ensure that the primer is 'stuck' to the surface. Very important on reactive surfaces such as Aluminium and its alloys.
Roger -
Water is recommended to remove the Phosy reside as that is its solvent. Acetone may not work - worth a try though.
Having cleaned the surface with the phosy it will be protected from a short dampening of the surface.
As mentioned total immersion is quite different from a surface prep. As the Phosy is being used it is being neutralised. In a bucket there is plenty more to take over whereas a surface prep has a limited amout.
EG. etch primer stops working fairly quickly as there is only a small amount.
Roger
Spinning starter motor
in Electrical
Posted
Hi Aaron,
if you reverse the polarity of your car - positive earth to negative earth you don;t have to sort out the S/M.
What is the history of the original fault.
Is it a new S/M - what type.
If a High torque then has the pre-engage been wired in correctly (if possible!!)
Was it working then stopped.
Is the battery up to scratch - low volts may spin the motor but not throw it in.
Roger