Davemate

I have posted this on the Facebook group but just incase there are folk who don’t use Facebook.

Would it be possible to have a marshal of some description at lands end to stop people parking their cars in the “lands end” entrance. Over the last few events when we’ve arrived at lands end there has been 3 cars parked which completely stops anyone else from getting a picture of their cars under the sign without having the “other cars” in it 🤨
Seems a bit inconsiderate to just park their and then go in for breakfast when there’s a bloody great big car park 50ft away, knowing that there’s 130 (ish) other cars who would like to get a picture 👍

Good luck to everyone this year, hopefully no dropouts on the way round 😊
 

the head marshal at lands end has replied on Facebook saying if he can spare a marshal then he will be on it, but if we all keep an eye out and see someone walking away from their car and it’s parked at the entrance it would be nice if something was said that way it takes the heat off the marshals 

obviously if everyone just takes their picture and then parks up then there won’t be an issue 😊

 

 

Seems I’ve managed to get the file/map route onto a pc (base camp) but just doesn’t seem to want to show itself on the sat nav 🤨

will try again tomorrow eve 😊
 

update 

route is now on sat nav 😊

Thank you Howard I may well contact you 

I have only looked while on my iPhone 

I’ll have a look on my sons pc as I only use my phone 

As I can’t respond via the watts-app 

all I’m getting is basically a picture of the coding for the sat nav file, not a downloadable “file” to then transfer onto the sat nav.

unless someone knows or explain how I do it 

Thanks for the replies 😊

Has anyone done the sat nav files this year, there’s normally someone doing them 😊

If your just taking out the engine from the top you can leave the following in place 

the brake lines 

the steering 

all the front suspension 

Most of the exhaust 

 

Not quite getting why you seem to think so much has to be disconnected/ removed to get the engine out from the top.

ive taken the engines out of two cars then swapped them over, put them both back in and got one running in a day and drove it home.

went back the second to finish off then drive that one home 

basically swapped a 2.5 and a 2ltr over.

 

You can remove the engine on its own from the top 

you can remove the engine and the gearbox connected from the top 

you have to loosen the bolts on the crossmember then “bounce” the car which will drop the crossmember a little which will let the sump ride over the crossmember.

ive only ever removed engines from the top 

 

In no particular order

 

Lands end:-

my one main niggle about the whole event 

We arrived at lands end to find half a dozen cars parked in a nice “fan” at the entrance, so that meant that no one was able to “get a photo” of their cars parked at the entrance 

quote thoughtless of those people,a case of I’m here,I’ll get my picture and sod everyone else.

this never happen at JOG as the picture taking point is more than a walk from the hotel 

how about a “parking attendant” next time 

take you picture and then move into the car park 

 

Other observations

knock hill:-

if you use it again how about seeing if a local “burger van” would be interested in parking there for the night,I would think he’d do a booming trade in tea,coffees and burgers 

 

sweeper:-

cant thank Doug enough,getting us back to the start to enable us to “re start” in my car otherwise we would have been out 

maybe set a “max time allowed” to help at each brake down.

 

last checkpoint:-

did seem a bit “out of the way” in the wrong direction 

I did try the email and it bounced back as well which is why I asked for a phone call 

so far no reply,so I presume I’m out of luck

Is this still available,I’ve been looking for throttle bodies to use for efi conversion,and I don’t wont to use serviceable ones so these would be perfect.

I can’t PM you for some reason so if you’d be kind enough to cal and let me know,I live in cheshunt so I can pop up anytime to pay and collect them 

07779 237 536 

Dave 

To be honest I didn’t think about my answers to hard
It also slipped my mind that there are three wires on the foot switch
1) must be a constant feed or earth,mk1’s are wired weird
2) off to dip beam circuit
3) off to main beam circuit

Sorry to have raised your hopes  
Can’t think of anything other than my “other suggestions” which all involve removing the foot switch

Quoted from dazzer

I suppose just extending the wires and fitting a dash switch would be more straight forward.
Looks pretty heavy duty though ... 25 amp +++. Any ideas?

You only need to extend one wire over to a dash switch

Unplug one of the wires from the foot switch and extend it to a dash switch then return a new wire back from the dash switch back to the foot switch

Result :-
Both switches have to be on for the main beam to work but once on if your foot is to busy then flick the dash switch and the main beam goes off

Other options:-
1)Use the overdrive lever for main beam and add an overdrive switch to the gear knob so doing away with the foot switch
2) just do away with foot switch and just have a dash switch
3) leave it as it is and just live with it
4)extend foot switch wires and an coiled wire to a switch on the steering wheel

How about winding in a tiny self tapping screw into the pinhole then grind the shank from inside the reservoir or just leave it sticking out
Or grind both the sticking out bit and also the head
Or
Is it possible to sleeve it

I can’t log into the new forum using the log on details for logging onto here
For various reasons I’m not currently a member of club triumph,if that stops me using the new forum then that’s just one more reason for me not to be a member,which for me would be a shame as I’m currently trying really hard to think of reasons to re new my membership

Quoted from poppyman

There are quite a selection on ebay at the moment

Cheers, tony.

What are they listed under, having trouble finding them  

In very hot weather
Hot air not only flows through the rad but also flows over the engine
In very cold weather
Cold air flows through rad and over the engine
so in theory in very cold weather the engine could never get “up to temp”
And in very hot weather it could be “ up at running temp” before your even start the engine
And yes I’m mean in “ over extreme temps” at both ends of the scale

So to answer Dazzer original question

It all depends on the weather,and if your moving  

Dazzer
I’ve had my heater bypassed due to a weeping heater matrix and my temp gauge has been sitting just over half or a tad higher way on my home from work if stuck in traffic . I’m running standard pump,rad and at the moment a 77 thermostat. On the odd occasion I’ve had to click on the electric fan just to lower the temp a tad.
Today I thought sod the leak I’m bloody cold so I reconnected the heater
On my home tonight I sat in loads of traffic and it took me an extra 40 mins to get home and that was all stop start traffic. I had full screen,full heat and the blower on (mk1 2000)
The temp gauge sat bang on normal so just having the heater blower kept the temperature down,as soon as I got moving after the road works the gauge dropped to under normal and the heater was definitely cooler within a few hundred yards
So :- as in the same situation during the summer I fitted a electric fan but only with an manual switch which I had to have on as well as the heater blower to keep the temp gauge at about 3/4 when sat in similar traffic, so my thinking is,it’s bloody freezing out at the moment so any air flowing through the engine bay will cool it rather quickly.

I’m thinking about restricting the air flow through the front grill with some sort of screen,probably cardboard to see if it works and then something better if it works

Ps
In the mornings on my way to work at 05:30 during my non stop run of 3.5 miles my temp gauge just about gets to 1/4 or just under and the heater blows cold or luke warm if I’m lucky or unlucky as it just fogs the screen up

Quoted from Radders

it wont even let me log in with my username or password.  

That’s  because your naughty and your not allowed in 😀

I started with a 1200 herald
1500 engine,overdrive gearbox and with the spitfire 1500 diff :-
You'll have to change the flanges on the drive shafts as the 1200 herald's are small and on the diff they are large,same goes for the prop shaft.
As for the prop shaft I just had the original 1200 one shortened to fit and fitted larger flanges,that way the engine bolts straight in and the overdrive gearbox mount can be fixed using the old gearbox mount holes on the chassis (two bolts and drill two more for the other two bolts) you'll also have to either hammer back or cut an inch or so off the back end of the "tunnel" so you can get to the front prop shaft bolts from inside the car.

All bits required have been found 🙂

I won't be at the meet tomorrow,I should have all parts needed, I'll give you a shout if I don't have parts
Cheers Colin

Quoted from thescrapman

No. 2. But get a competent person to do it

Is that an offer 😀
Bulb needs to be in a instrument bulb holder 😉

I was going to make a fly lead and unplug one of the wires on the stalk lead

I want to put a tell tale light on my mk1 saloon for the overdrive, the overdrive stalk has two wires and I'm presuming  ones live and one not when the the stalk is in the off position
Do I :-

1) put an bulb in line on the dead side (when off)

2) tee off the dead side (when off) with an bulb and then to earth

3) Something else

4) get a compatant person to do it

5) don't bother