Bitumen Boy

I know you don't want to bypass the servo, but I'd be tempted to do so on a temporary basis just to be 100% sure the servo is causing the problem. 3 servos with the same fault strikes me as being more than usually unlucky.

I don't honestly believe the adjusters ever did work. Nice idea but a little beyond the technology of the time.

I don't know if you've got to this stage yet, but I found that once I got the hang of driving it to best advantage the triomatic could give performance and economy that wasn't far behind the manual cars.

Quoted from cliftyhanger

I will be controversial here. I use old stock asbestos pads that seem very capable everywhere, and lasting well.

(and despite what people say, there is very little health risk. Just think, there was not a trail of death left by every car from the early 1900's right up until they where phased out in the 1990's, or 2004 for pre 73 vehicles. As to asbestos related lung diseases, truly horrible, there is only a very slightly increased risk to those who worked long term as brake technicians, ie all day every day comparerd to the general population. take sensible precautions and the risk approaches zero.)

Despite what Haynes etc. advise there is NO NEED to remove the timing covers or crankshaft pulley to change the waterpump on an Acclaim. All you need to do is remove the one bolt that passes through the timing cover and waterpump along with all the other waterpump fixing bolts, then simply loosen the other timing cover bolts by a couple of turns. You'll then find it's quite easy to wangle the old pump out and, with a little care, the new one in. I've done a few like this and it's not a bad job, really - couple of hours tops once you know the ropes but if it's your first one allow an afternoon.

Still miss the Triomatic we had, lovely to drive even though it was a bit of a shed.

Sounds like a duff master cylinder to me.

Just a thought - which type of heater was that? Looks a different shape to my Delaney so I'd guess at Smiths, but of course that could be down to the mods.

That's neat. I like it!

Quoted from RobPearce

I have a specific pair of shoes for driving Triumphs, with narrower soles than my normal daily footwear. And I'm only size 9.

Quoted from nang

Bitumen Boy. Out of left field, have a look at modern truck/bus clutch boosters. Much smaller than brake boosters.
Tony.

Quoted from Nick Jones

I have enough trouble with my great hooves getting all three pedals at once as it is......

Nick

Been reading this thread with interest as I'd like to fit a servo to my Herald one day - not for the brakes but for the clutch, of course the only difference would be in the plumbing. Not that there's anything wrong with the clutch, but I have an ongoing problem with my left foot/ankle - fine when it's fine, but when it's bad (like now) I can't drive the car at all. I can still manage the modern which is pretty light on the clutch hence thinking that a servo would help. Best idea so far has been relocating the battery and mounting it over there, I'm a lazy mechanic and detest cars where you have to remove X to shift Y to even get a spanner onto Z (the Herald is pretty good for this in standard form) so mounting it over the master cylinders doesn't really appeal.

Quoted from thescrapman

Automatics may become slightly more common now the road tax rules have changed.

Perhaps it's different in the big cities, but from my own observations automatics still seem to be relatively uncommon on UK roads. A shame as I don't want to be faffing with a manual 'box on my next modern, all that clutchwork in traffic is too much like hard work to my mind.

Quoted from griffipaul

apparently one of the reasons impeding  increasing 1st mot  to four  years on todays super reliable cars is the high incidence of 1st mot failures due to worn  / damaged tyres.

I have a vague memory of a car that had a similar problem, it turned out to be a bad electrical connection in, I think, the starter itself, though I'm really not sure now. Check all your earthing straps - not just visually, have them off and fiddle a bit - and if you have no luck there take the starter off. Open it up if you're confident with these things or have it overhauled if not. There's definitely a fault somewhere and finding and curing it will cost you a lot less than a fancy new starter.

Quoted from JohnD

PS Part-worn tyres come from Germany, where the minimum tread depth is 3mm (UK 1.6, if you had forgotten)
So they are nearly worn out anyway.   J.

I too would suggest fibreglass, handy for repairing all sorts of things. If you're really stuck though you could try some thin cotton cloth (old shirts or sheets) fixed with weatherproof PVA - it gives a little flexibility which may or may not be helpful in this application. I've found it surprisingly strong on cardboard and the material you're dealing with is pretty much the same thing.

Yes, it does look smart. That looks like an original rocker cover btw, they were never very wonderful but you can probably make it seal as well as most with a little work.

I think velcro could work quite well. The one problem I would expect would be fixing the one side to the carpet - I can't see the self adhesive stuff sticking for long, though the other side onto the panelwork should be OK so long as the paint is good. If you had access to an industrial sewing machine that would be ideal, though a good liquid glue - NOT water based, for obvious reasons - may do the trick.

When you look at the cost of the batteries, the range they'll give and the likely lifespan, the fuel economy of the old Triumph engines doesn't look too bad at all... 🙂

I had a very similar experience with my (quite possibly original) clutch M/C, and eventually, tired of mucking about with it, fitted a new one. No further problems, and the gearchange is nicer than I can ever remember which suggests it hadn't been right for a while. Bearing in mind that the clutch hydraulics get much more use than the brake hydraulics, I think you just have to accept that it's knackered and move on. The fact that the bore looks OK doesn't mean the small parts that make up the piston assembly and valve seal haven't worn, and it doesn't seem to take much wear there to make a difference - once the wear  is visible I'd say it's on borrowed time.

I don't know why I've only just thought of this, but it's worth mentioning something else we noticed with Acclaims - hard old tyres can make the steering noticeably heavy, but new tyres are an instant cure. Probably not so applicable here as it sounds like this particular car gets used regularly but worth bearing in mind anyway.

Quoted from heraldcoupe

Nothing so exotic, I need to find out if a 6-port (1200) head can be fitted to a 1500 block, to allow a downdraught carb/manifold to be used.
At least four new stud mounting holes would need to be drilled into the block, I need to see how the positions are going to align with the waterways.

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from ferny

It's an odd comment on the sheet for me. I'd have thought if it was a TRE causing it it would say. I can't think of anything else which would impact one side only.