scotty71

I have one of the aluminium rads from Fleabay, and the car has stopped getting too hot.

but the mount holes on the rad are too close to the fins. so I had to rubber mount it.

silly question, but is the core plug above the timing cover. causing our oil leak?

as the cover is not sitting flush on it?

the one which I bought yesterday, is the power train one. in the diagram, it shows the valve to be added in the vacuum pipe.
I will check the elbow fitting.

Been at the triumph & mg day, and bought a servo kit from TR shop to fit on the 13/60. Does anyone know what non return valve to use On the vacuum pipe?
Nick have you fitted your servo yet?

so if I used a servo. what size would I need? has anyone tried to convert the rear brakes to disc?
as the MGF rear brakes could fit, if there was a calliper bracket made up in steel to mount to the herald mounting.

To improve the braking for the herald 1360, would it be a good idea to use the 1500 spitfire brake
system used the tandem brake lines, but I would like to change the rear brakes to MGF discs.

remember to leave the cover lose on the motor, this will allow the switch contacts to be reset. I made the mistake to screw it all together. when I switch the wipers on they, tried to go pass the windscreen on to the bonnet. leave the wipers off and let them stop at the bottom of the screen.
if they do not then adjust the contacts on the motor assembly.

Do not forget to replace the rubber gaskets behind the striker plates

Do not forget to replace the rubber gaskets behind the striker plates

yes it is leaking, but it is a small weep. the drilling idea is to stop the crack getting bigger. welding I would not do, as you said there is no point.
putting a bolt in the hole, is only like having another drain hole.

in have a 10mm crack near my drain plug, any ideas please.
I did think of drilling the crack out, and putting a bolt in its place.

i will be running 20/50 from now on, with the oil cooler.

thank gents for the reply's. I have tried different oils to see which ones could help, being I was using a 10/40 grade. but in slow traffic to Farnham car show the oil light started to glow. so now up the grade to 20/50 and now opted to run an oil cooler.
the engine is ok with 20/50 grade, and the oil light has not come back on. pressure is good.

what is the best way to fit the MOCAL cooler? being my car does run hot. i have seen someone had fitted it near the rear of the engine bay? but would be looking at the front, under the rad. or around that area. any ideas?

there is 3 bits on the 1360. you have the bit on the glass, under the weather strip. the bit that covers the locks and door handle, and the large bit which runs from the front to the back.
I used plastic sheeting and guess work on the length's, being there is no good pictures to get sizes from.

there is 3 bits on the 1360. you have the bit on the glass, under the weather strip. the bit that covers the locks and door handle, and the large bit which runs from the front to the back.
I used plastic sheeting and guess work on the length's, being there is no good pictures to get sizes from.

i have had bearings made in India. Rubbish!! they are not harden correctly, and have soft bearing surface. buy branded bearing 🙂

the earth strap on the engine has a good ground to it, but I will have a look at the starter motor this weekend. I still think it is the brushes are to soft! I did buy some more some years ago for the old starter. so they could be the next thing to look at.

when hot the starter motor seems a little slower. the car wants to fire, but it take a couple attempts to do so.
i did have a bit muck on the dizzy. but i had cleaned it off, and the time it took to start it was about the same.
it just needs to be a bit quicker on cranking over.

13/60 so only a 4 pot. it is a rebuilt Lucas unit, which I has only done about 400miles. so it could be the brushes are soft, and loosing power that way.  I do have electronic ignition, could be pulling the voltage down on cranking.

Fuel has been a problem in the past. But I have made a cover, doses work. So fuel is not the problem.
But I do need to bump it if it very hot day like today. This is why I asked about the starter motor.

Hi Gents,

The car let its self down today, my starter motor is the standard type. When hot it struggle to get the engine started.
So the question is, which starter motor is a good one to get?

I have only done 350ish miles on these, and they have all ready gone egg shape. I spent 3 hours sunday machining 25 thou out of them. it took so long, due to the outside edge was no square!!
these patent parts are getting rubbish now.

I bought some door seals from Bill. great fit. I had the bubble type seal before hand, and I could not the doors to latch properly.

I bought some door seals from Bill. great fit. I had the bubble type seal before hand, and I could not the doors to latch properly.