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scotty71

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  1. I have one of the aluminium rads from Fleabay, and the car has stopped getting too hot. but the mount holes on the rad are too close to the fins. so I had to rubber mount it.
  2. silly question, but is the core plug above the timing cover. causing our oil leak? as the cover is not sitting flush on it?
  3. the one which I bought yesterday, is the power train one. in the diagram, it shows the valve to be added in the vacuum pipe. I will check the elbow fitting.
  4. Been at the triumph & mg day, and bought a servo kit from TR shop to fit on the 13/60. Does anyone know what non return valve to use On the vacuum pipe? Nick have you fitted your servo yet?
  5. so if I used a servo. what size would I need? has anyone tried to convert the rear brakes to disc? as the MGF rear brakes could fit, if there was a calliper bracket made up in steel to mount to the herald mounting.
  6. To improve the braking for the herald 1360, would it be a good idea to use the 1500 spitfire brake system used the tandem brake lines, but I would like to change the rear brakes to MGF discs.
  7. remember to leave the cover lose on the motor, this will allow the switch contacts to be reset. I made the mistake to screw it all together. when I switch the wipers on they, tried to go pass the windscreen on to the bonnet. leave the wipers off and let them stop at the bottom of the screen. if they do not then adjust the contacts on the motor assembly.
  8. Do not forget to replace the rubber gaskets behind the striker plates
  9. Do not forget to replace the rubber gaskets behind the striker plates
  10. yes it is leaking, but it is a small weep. the drilling idea is to stop the crack getting bigger. welding I would not do, as you said there is no point. putting a bolt in the hole, is only like having another drain hole.
  11. scotty71

    crack in block

    in have a 10mm crack near my drain plug, any ideas please. I did think of drilling the crack out, and putting a bolt in its place.
  12. i will be running 20/50 from now on, with the oil cooler.
  13. thank gents for the reply's. I have tried different oils to see which ones could help, being I was using a 10/40 grade. but in slow traffic to Farnham car show the oil light started to glow. so now up the grade to 20/50 and now opted to run an oil cooler. the engine is ok with 20/50 grade, and the oil light has not come back on. pressure is good.
  14. what is the best way to fit the MOCAL cooler? being my car does run hot. i have seen someone had fitted it near the rear of the engine bay? but would be looking at the front, under the rad. or around that area. any ideas?
  15. there is 3 bits on the 1360. you have the bit on the glass, under the weather strip. the bit that covers the locks and door handle, and the large bit which runs from the front to the back. I used plastic sheeting and guess work on the length's, being there is no good pictures to get sizes from.
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