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Slimboyfat

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Posts posted by Slimboyfat

  1. heraldcoupe wrote:
    Are Radford's 2000 panels any better than their Herald panels?

    Cheers,
    Bill.


    The only ones we have actually used are the MKII front wing repair that does the corner under the front bumper that joins the valance.

    I have done a couple of cars using these now, very good fit.

  2. A few years ago we did a run of these on a 'once and for all basis'.

    We were obliged to have quite a large moq last time, but we were helped out by Bill Davis taking a few.

    My own motivation was based on needing a few for our own Couriers at some time in the future as and when we got around to restoring them. They all got sold before I put any aside!

    I have managed to squeeze a few more out of our manufacturer in amongst a large order for other springs, and there will be a few spare if anyone is interested.

    If this is seen as blatant advertising please remove.

  3. A couple of these;

    http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=142

    plus a couple of these;

    http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=110

    and your already over 320 quid, and you haven't even got the special carriers, circlips, or any spacers, nuts and bolts that come with the kit.

    I dont think the kit is expensive, perhaps its time to put it up now though.

  4. Ive never really had a problem with Lucas.

    Most electrical problems I have encountered with customers cars over the years have resulted from sloppy previous work. For example poor quality connectors, and earthing points attached to rust, newspaper, and fibreglass!





  5. 1344 wrote:



    You should try one of these cheapie ones,they seem to last ok  ;D


    That will be the kiss of death to mine now  :-/


    Didn't I mention the cheapie one that failed on the daughters 13/60? Fortunately the old boy who we had bought the car off had left the points, condensor, etc behind the battery in a plastic bag, so a quick fix at the side of the road.

    It was about this time that she started to loose interest in 'unreliable old motors'.

    In part thanks to electronic ignition shes hardly driven a classic since.

  6. My first failure was a Mobelec 'Grand Prix' I fitted to my TR5. Bought with my staff discount from the Motorist Discount Centre I was managing in 1979 (the previous manager, and his assistant had been sacked, but thats another story).

    That lasted about 13 months. It just died, and the concensus amongst staff from other shops was that customer feedback had been terrible with many returns just in warranty, unlucky me.

    My next failure was a Lumenition I had fitted to my Stag in about 1985. That was in warranty and Lumenition bless em admitted they had had problems and swapped it for another that lasted 13 months (theme developing here). That expired on the M69 after doing over 10 miles at 100mph plus (I never did see any coppers on the M69 in those days), and just after losing my stainless windscreen trims over the roof (I wonder if that had a knock on affect?).

    The next failure was whilst driving my dads PI Estate. The Sparkrite unit died whilst climbing Porlock Hill. Fortunately those Sparkrites had a get you home faciilty whereby you could throw a switch on the unit in the event of failure and limp home.

    Then there was a Newtronix (scuse spellin?) that left me stranded in a punters GT6 on the way back from an MOT.

    Then there was a Pertronix that gave up the ghost whilst I was setting up the carbs on a punters Spitfire 1500 (that confused me!).

    In between somewhere I have had two ignition modules fail on our V8 MKIII saloon. They both went under different circumstances. The first just died as I was cruising through our local town, and the second gave up a couple of years later as I was pulling off the drive at home. The most convienant brake down I have ever had.









  7. mikew wrote:
    Has anyone thought of approaching the Liquidator to see if the tooling could be purchased?

    If it was an essential part for a Big Saloon, I'd at least invest the time in a telephone call or too.

    Better to try and save the tooling now, than maybe have to remake it later.

    There's enough rotoflex car owners out there to at least justify the attempt



    The tooling is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard in isolation.

    Unless you are prepared to keep the factory open, the experianced staff employed, and all that specialist equipment in situ that is currently being auctioned then it becomes unviable.

    Been there, done that, learnt the lesson.

  8. 2729 wrote:
    So what other essential and good quality QH parts will now become hard to get?


    With the benefit of hindsight the writing was on the wall for QH (really Klarius Group) about 12 months ago.

    One by one after this date we started to loose availabilty on various product lines.

    The first to go was the clutch driven we use in the Type 9 conversions on the Spitfire 1500.

    That was a pain, but it got worse up to the point where we didn't get a single product line from the last order just after Christmas.  

  9. With the demise of Quinton Hazel recently, and Schlegel Automotive Europe Ltd the two prime manufacturers of GT6/Vitesse rotoflex couplings what does the future hold for availabilty on these crucial parts?

    The contents of the Schlegal factory are being auctioned on-line as I write this (ends in a few hours). I wonder if the roto pattern equipment, moulds, and tools are in and amongst this lot?

    http://www.edwardsymmons.com/online-auctions?task=getitem&auction_id=284


  10. Sorry I had read the abridged version of that memo, I have now dug out the full version.

    It was a an estimate based on 1,000 units per year, not total units. It also lists estimate of total engine cost at 155-160 per unit.

    Nice bit earlier in memo about TR3 fitted with Sabrina averaging 118mph for 176 miles at M.I.R.A, with over 130mph recorded on the straights.

    Not bad for a car with the aerodynamics of a brick out house.

  11. I have seen an S.T internal memo from July 1958 where tooling costs for a projected 1,000 Sabrina engines was quoted at 30K.

    30 quid an engine tooling, and then add to that the costs of actually building them, that's a lot of money in 1958.

  12. Strange co-incidence but the manufacturer of these contacted me yesterday.

    They have had 'issues' over the past few months with another large organisation which has led to most of their Triumph product lines becoming unavailable.

    The problem is resolved, but unfortunately 520260, and 520261 door handle repairs (they have been made in alloy in recent years, not plastic) are not a high priority in amongst everything else they produce. It could be many months before they make any new stock.

    Use the part numbers above and ring around the trade to see if they are still holding stock from last summer (last time they were available from manufacturer).

  13. Strange co-incidence but the manufacturer of these contacted me yesterday.

    They have had 'issues' over the past few months with another large organisation which has led to most of their Triumph product lines becoming unavailable.

    The problem is resolved, but unfortunately 520260, and 520261 door handle repairs (they have been made in alloy in recent years, not plastic) are not a high priority in amongst everything else they produce. It could be many months before they make any new stock.

    Use the part numbers above and ring around the trade to see if they are still holding stock from last summer (last time they were available from manufacturer).

  14. Dont forget you need radius arms, and mounting brackets from later car if going to long shafts.

    You might also want to move the brake hoses/pipes away from the spring eye like the later swing spring cars.

  15. Also beware on all types of Herald/Vitesse repro wing (sorry from 'original tooling') that the stiffner along the back edge is all the wrong shape.

    It will need work to get it to line up with the front edge of the door.

    If you weld it on as you find it it will 'kick' out at the bottom in relation to the door.

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