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32valves

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Posts posted by 32valves

  1. I used the high temperature paint from Frost''s on my rear brake drums and it has lasted pretty well. I scrubbed them with a wire brush then cleaned with paint thinners before applying the paint. Still looks OK after 8 yrs.

  2. Spent the last couple of days finding and fixing a number of subtle issues. I now have all sparks rounded up and heading where they're supposed to, no more timing scatter, and consistent fueling. Went out for a 40 mile thrash at tea time and everything seems to be in order. Relieved to be back on track 😎

    Oh, wait, the temperature gauge isn't working ....

  3. Went to continue my investigations this morning and accidentally turned the ignition on when releasing the steering lock. As I turned it off I heard a light snapping noise. Quickly discovered there was sparking across the coil (which is also new). Tried a brand new one, same thing, tried the old 6v coil, same thing. sometimes it's a small spark from the +ve and -ve terminals and sometimes it's great big spark to the centre electrode. Scratching head .....

  4. After managing to solve my apparent electrical problems I've spent the last few nights tuning the engine then driving the car. There's something wrong. I can't get the engine to tick over smoothly. As far as I can tell I've set it slightly rich at tick over (~4.5% CO) which generally smooths things out but examining the (new) plugs after a drive, they are white meaning lean (way too lean !). Apart from the plugs the only other new component is the distributor. Could this be the cause ? I'll be swapping it out later for an oldy but goody. My only other thoughts are air/vacuum leak ... Anyone ?

  5. Ignition issues fixed this morning then the car still wouldn't start, completely dead no dash lights etc. Strange as it was working fine yesterday morning. Hooked up the jump pack which started beeping immediately meaning battery problem. Multimeter showed about 7 volts across the terminals so off to Halfords for a new battery. Installed and everything working. Also checked for a leakage current just in case it was a current drain causing the battery problem but that appears normal, just enough to run the clock. Time for some road testing again but not until tomorrow now. Too much else to do.

  6. My entry is in.

    I first did the RBRR in 2000 in my P-reg Mimosa yellow Sprint. That car has been off the road for a few years now and is currently a rolling shell in my lock-up. I decided it was about time to re-commission it and what better reason/time than for the 25th anniversary/50th year of the RBRR. So, it's LVJ on the entry form and my good lady as co-driver. However that will mean no pork and apple pies at Pimperne, might have to re-think that one ! 😀

  7. Thanks all, I've managed to get it working with a modern 4-pin relay, just an extra +ve supply lead required. There were a couple of poor connections in the circuit that also needed fettling and I may replace the air horn pump as it seems a bit hesitant sometimes but then it must be 20yrs old now. Cheers  ;)

  8. The horn stopped working on our '74 MkIV Spitfire and after a bit of investigation I think it is the relay. The question is which one do I need. The current one is a recent new replacement, a large rectangular item similar to the old one but this is listed as an overdrive relay. I've seen Part No.'s UKC2421 and 142169A (this is the one that looks like the original) listed. Any thoughts ?

    Typical that the MOT is booked for Friday ! Mind you, while investigating this I discovered that the Main/Dip column switch wiring was worn through and had obviously been sparking against the column, yikes !

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