garyf

The Doly sold for £8,500, a good buy for someone I reckon.

I had chance to look at this car last Thursday and was very impressed

It looks like it's had a full rebuild and was sporting Round Britain Reliability run stickers.

If I was on the look out for a nice Dolomite I would be having a bid I reckon, it's up for auction tomorrow so I will be curious to see what it fetches.

Gary  

Hi Oli

I Doubt very much TR6 Wheels will fit, they are 15" Diameter and the standard Dolomite wheels will be 13", the wheel offset will no doubt be wrong too.

Have you thought about a set of Dolomite Sprint Alloys, these will fit for sure and I think they look very smart.

Regards

Gary 

This looks very nice indeed, presumably 124K Miles but it looks lovely, a club members car too.

https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-655---1980-triumph-dolomite-1850-hl/?lot=26205&so=0&st=dolomite&sto=0&au=68&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=48&pn=1&g=1

Phil

Are you sure the registration number isn't UBP 841 that does come up on the M.O.T. Trace as a White TR2 and the tax trace also shows its currently taxed too🙂

Gary

Hi Wendy

Thanks for the info, I've made my mind up on a Mk2 Convertible though.

Regards

Gary 

What did everyone think to the show?

I enjoyed it apart from the queuing to get in

I thought it was busy, but maybe not as busy as last year.

I was hoping to see some cars for sale, but with the exception of the Modified Spitfire, the TR250 and the TR3A In the Main Entrance Hall I didn't see any others, did I miss anymore?

Gary 

1 hour ago, JohnD said:

Shorely shome mishtake?  You're not going to offer more for a clapped out engine?

I could sell you one, that is NOT clapped out!

John

It does sound a bit ridiculous I know!!

This car Bodily, Paintwork and Interior wise is one of the best ones I've seen so far though?

I'll sleep on it I reckon

Gary

14 hours ago, thescrapman said:

I suspect most cars for sale will have issues, I have noticed that standards seem to have dropped as people just say “ well it’s an old car, they all have poor (insert non working part)”

If you want a good car, buy a solid basis and work to get it up to spec.

Buying a car with no issues is going to be expensive, and it will still have things not right.

If all that is wrong with that one is engine and brakes, but rest is very good, I would probably buy it and get mending, it will probably cost more than increase in value 

Colin

You are probably right, I'm very fussy anyway so the chances of me finding one that ticks all the boxes is very remote.

Most of the cars I've considered buying recently (around 80%) have no current M.O.T.  

The trouble with this one is the amount of work required to get it up to scratch mechanically is quite extensive and I know when I start stripping things I will get carried away and want to refurbish/improve things!

I'm still considering making him a better offer but there is a chance the Engine Block and crank may be scrap if the thrusts have fallen out.

Gary  

2 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

I reckon your man is holding out for a less knowledgeable punter who won’t realise the engine is done for until it’s too late…..😕

May be worth keeping an eye on.

The thought had crossed my mind too🤥

He did state when I first contacted him he was going to try and sell it in the Spring, which makes sense.

I just hope any potential buyer takes it for a test run to discover the issues with the engine, brakes and steering. 

Gary 

9 hours ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Hi Gary, maybe you could put a post on this forum under cars wanted section and include your budget price,  there’s always a car for sale at some point within the club membership, 

good luck on your search 

Wendy

Good idea, just done it and thanks.

Gary

I'm after a mint original or fully restored Vitesse, a later convertible model with overdrive is preferred, but will consider any car if in excellent condition.

PM me if you have one for sale please.

Regards

Gary

I've made what I thought was a realistic offer for the car but had a very negative reply, so the search goes on.

How much is it these days for a decent, road worthy Vitesse convertible?

It's hard to be precise on how much play there is, it might be less than 3/16", my mate spotted it.

The funny noise when depressing the clutch was worrying too

I've told the guy I will make a decision by the weekend, the engine issue is the worst, the car also as other issues mechanically which although none are major will all need time and money spending to put right

I'll keep you posted on what happens

Gary  

48 minutes ago, glang said:

So did the owner get the car with engine like that or has it happened in his ownership? Has he driven it many miles? How about doing a deal on price with him which depends on the state the engines found to be in?

I have no idea, he purchased the car around 2013 and as only done a couple of thousand miles in it according to the M.O.T. history?

I'm currently in discussions with him about the price, when I get a feel for how much it will cost to rebuild the engine and sort the other issues (Steering play, brakes pulling to one side and a new soft top needed) I'll make an offer and see what he says.

I've been looking for a decent one since last July and I'm getting a bit fed up tbh, I suppose if I get this one I've got a few months before spring to hopefully sort all the issues ready for summer?  

19 minutes ago, glang said:

Yes apparently the block can be damaged beyond economic repair (after all the thrust is taken by the block not the cap). If the crank moves that much the front camchain sprocket will do the same so causing a lot of misalignment of the chain and probably creating the noise you heard. However good that you didnt get the typical bearing rattle - might have caught them in time...

Has the owner told you any thing about how the exact progression of the failure?

The owner isn't that mechanically minded I'm afraid.

I do know that the car was owned for around 40 years or so by a Lady who lived in the same village as the current owner, he purchased the car off her Husband when he passed away, he inherited the car.

My mate thought she may have been a driver who rode the clutch a lot at junctions and the car had done a lot of local journeys stopping and starting frequently, this would cause wear eventually I suppose.

I've got to make a decision by the end of the week. 

I just hope the Block isn't ruined, only a strip down will confirm that

Gary 

1 hour ago, JohnD said:

Even DiY, if you need to do a lot, it can be £1K or more, but it IS premature before you dismantle it.    Best case, just bearing caps etc.   The worst case would be such thrust washer wear to destroy the crank of main bearing.      But very oversized thrust washers were available from America.  Can't recall where, but ask on "The Triumph Experience" .

Good luck!

John

I've read if the thrusts are very badly worn or have dropped out it can ruin the block and it would be scrap though, can a Triumph 6 Block be repaired after thrust washer fall out damage or is just the bearing cap and crank that get damaged?

Gary  

On 16/01/2024 at 12:36, glang said:

Why not try it first? Not a major job to install, certainly less than an engine strip, and then you drive it to see what its like. Theres a few easy things you could check before that like compression, crank float and even inspect crank bearings but if all looks good I would whack in new crank oil seals and drive off into the sunset👍

The engine definitely has issues, the oil warning light was on whilst it was ticking over and there was around 1/8" to 3/16" movement on the front pulley when I depressed the clutch, with a strange rattle from the front as if something was catching, the timing chain on the tensioner or cover maybe? 

The engine was very quiet otherwise though no knocking or rattles at tick over or even when revving it which I found strange.

 Gary

Hi All

I'm after a bit of advice, as anyone recently rebuilt a MK2 2000/Vitesse Engine

I've got the chance to purchase a nice Vitesse Mk2 but the engine I believe needs rebuilding with low oil pressure and thrust washer issues

I have rebuilt one in the past but it was 20 years ago, I don't think a rebore or new pistons will be needed but I'm assuming everything else will need replacing or reconditioning

I know its a bit of a vague query until the engine is stripped for inspection, but approximate minimum/maximum cost for the parts and machining would be appreciated

Thanks

Gary   

4 hours ago, Jonathan Joyce said:

Hi, thanks, yes they are pretty good, I'm glad a I asked Newtons if they could try making some as they came out very well.

The mat is from a set of Spitfire mats I got from Paddocks, https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/front-footwell-rubber-mats-pair-2

Fairly inexpensive but they look authentic and fit the Mk2 chassis Herald/Vitesse footwells extremely well.

They look a good fit, a good price and period too, I must get some when I finally get another Vitesse.

Gary 

They look great🙂, is that an original Triumph Footwell rubber mat?

Regards

Gary

Mike

Time does fly, yes I keep in touch with Martin the current owner of my Old Vitesse, as far as I'm aware he doesn't want to part with it, it still looks good.

Gary

On 19/12/2023 at 07:39, mpbarrett said:

good luck with the car hunt, OD does make a big difference to a Triumph. BTW  I thought you had a TR5 why do you want to change?

Mike

Mike I sold the 5 back in 2018 to finance the purchase of a Sunbeam Tiger.

I've subsequently sold that one as well back in the Summer and I'm now hankering after another Vitesse Convertible

I would prefer a low mileage 1 owner original condition car (If there are any left?) alternatively a fully restored to an excellent standard car.

The search continues

Gary 

On 16/12/2023 at 20:35, mpbarrett said:

mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/ is great for looking at speeds and gear ratios.

Might be worth having a chat with Tony LIndsey re gearboxes as he is scaling down and selling lots of his core stuff. He is on FB or I can give you his phone number. Ok I understand people have very different views about him but he has built a great gearbox and diff for me in the last couple of years.

Mike

 

Mike

I have been in touch with Tony about possibly purchasing one of his reconditioned O/D Gearboxes.

I need to get a car first though.

Gary 

1 hour ago, Shepsy said:

Would a change from the std 3.89 diff to a 3.63 on a non O/drive car be comparable to a std O/drive car with 3.89 ?

Would be a cheaper alternative to start with, the perhaps add an O/drive at a later date?

Pete.

Hi Pete

Not sure of the exact MPH per 1000RPM but the 3.27 GT6 Differential is nearer the 3.89 Overdrive top gear, its something like 21.3 MPH per 1000 RPM in OD Top with a 3.89 Diff, direct top and a 3.27 diff is just over 20 MPH per 1000 RPM 

I would guess the 3.63 Diff is about 18.5 MPH per 1000 RPM in direct top, so only a slight increase in gearing.

Gary