garyf

I fitted some early MGF Seats to my old Vitesse, they are very comfortable, much more supportive and safer with the headrests, I had mine recovered in Shadow blue to match the rest of my interior and they matched in well.

Like Nick states you cannot recline them when fitted to the convertible and if your over 6 foot tall they probably won't go back far enough either, not to difficult to fit with the use of some suitable sized steel, nuts and bolt, I used some Shallow profile 41x21mm Unistrut type channel and fittings to fit them in my car.

The MX5 Ones fit better, look ok and recline

Regards

Gary 

Hi Ray

New ones are available here, although it may be better to Purchase via Canley Classics or James Paddocks for a better price?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjl447wkKv6AhWTRsAKHbQ4ABgQFnoECA0QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fnewtoncomm.co.uk%2Fcollections%2Fherald&usg=AOvVaw1L3uqlyUJz8WYwyBjXd6yH

Regards 

 

19 minutes ago, oldbury863 said:

Thanks for the replys, I'll go with the Payen set + metal gasket without sealant and report on the results when the jobs done.

It may be worth a thin circle of Blue Hylomar or similar type sealant around the rear corner on both sides of the gasket for the oil feed hole up to the Rockers?

This is a notorious area for leaking.

Regards

Gary 

How about this one?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195131780226?hash=item2d6ec2ac82:g:xlMAAOSw~vlipj-j

15 minutes ago, Topic63 said:

The only problem is I’m looking for dampers that fit the inner arch mounts. I assume to fit these you have had to fit the chassis extension mounts to avoid the rotoflex couplings?

I would (if I can) find the longer damper as a straight exchange - Without having to go Gaz 🤷‍♂️

Im still looking into it and searching various options, KYB seem to be the boys but it’s availability in the UK.

Yes

These Koni dampers are for use with the Chassis Brackets

It might be worth swapping to this type or GAZ equivalents if you can't source the correct longer dampers, as I believe the wheel arch top mounts can fatigue and crack on the GT6.

But it will be more costly for sure.

Regards

Gary

Here's some images of the Bush Modifications/Spacers and the Drawing of the Koni 80/1717 Damper detailing open and closed lengths

I got the Top hat Bushes from Chris Witor, Superflex Reference 0365 and the Top Extension Brackets and special top Bolt off Mark at Jigsaw

Regards

Gary

80-1717.pdf

On 28/10/2021 at 10:33, Topic63 said:

I’ve read that the mini ones bottom out?

I’m still investigating the Beetle ones which have a fully open length of 415mm and closed 270mm so I’m not sure if they would make the rear end sit high?

Given that it seems OEM ones are now NLA someone must have found, tried and fitted an alternative?

I fitted the Koni Classic 80/1717 type Dampers to my Mk2 Vitesse around 2013, they are meant for the front of an early Mini and worked well when using the Chassis extension brackets, I experienced no bottoming out even with 2 rear passengers?

I think the open length is 296mm and closed length 218mm.

You do have to drill out slightly the rear sleeve in the bottom bush and replace the top one with a Superflex Top-hat bush and modified spacer washers if using the Shouldered Bolt arrangement.

If you do a search for Koni on the TSSC Site it should help you decide what to do.

I bought  the Dampers from a company called Larkspeed at a competitive price.

I will try and find some more Info for you 

Gary

 

20 hours ago, pimp my vit said:

Its a smart arse reply to someone who doesn't fully understand an engineering issue, like sending the apprentice for sky hooks...not really helpful when you are asking for genuine advice on a forum!!

Not heard that one before?

I did get asked to go to the Stores once and ask for a long wait when I was an Apprentice😀 😅🤣

Pardon my ignorance, but what's a Muffler Bearing?😦

I can remember admiring this Vitesse way back in the mid 80's at one of the TSSC Shows at Telford (Motec?).

It still looks immaculate now, although I do know the PO did a lot of further restoration work and modifications to it after.

Hope to see it at one of the Triumph Shows this year maybe?

Gary  

The last time I enquired (maybe 2 years ago) the Esso Synergy+ fuel in my area was Ethanol free.

I was told Shell V-Power contained 5% Ethanol

I always try and use Esso Synergy+ Fuel in my classic when I can.

I have had trouble in the Past with seals degrading in the Metering Unit of my Tr.

There is no doubt Ethanol causes problems with certain components in fuel systems, I hope everyone's fitted good quality branded R9 or R14 fuel hoses by now?  

Normal Hot Oil pressure for a good condition 6 Cylinder Engine will be around 25 PSI at tick-over and 75 PSI at 3,000 RPM.

I believe the Oil Pressure relief valve is set to operate at 75 PSI so I reckon your gauge is wrong.    

Interesting to see some of the other parts listed by TD Fitchetts too, how about a N.O.S. TR7 Convertible Body Shell!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRI.....c:g:S~YAAOSwzVxZbyql

I had a Blue Mohair Hood fitted on my Vitesse supplied by the Don Hood Company in Birmingham, I could get this to fold fully into the Hood well no problem.

Are you sure there isn't a problem with the Hood frame?

Here's the underside of a TR5 Bonnet?

A Couple of Photo's of the Short Bulge bonnet for sale on the TR Register site, I know the bonnet support box sections are different on the TR5 they are angled across the bonnet not front to back as this one?  

I'm still learning my way with the TR Range but have read you can get a Short and Long Bulge Bonnet.

I believe the early TR4's had the short Bulge, the later 4a & 5 cars the long bulge.

There is a short bulge Bonnet listed for sale on the TR-Register For Sale section?

Girling Powerstop Brake Servo (As per the sticker).

A MkIIb one I think, similar to fitted to late Mk3 GT6's as standard.

I Once viewed a lovely Vitesse '6' Saloon finished in Conifer Green in Belper Derbyshire, must have been the late 80's

It was owned by an old lady and she was selling it because she was no longer able to drive it, this was a low mileage car and was fitted with a servo on the Clutch.

I used to see her tootling around Belper in it, hope its still around 'B' Reg I think it was.    

Not sure if this will be any help or not, I fitted a Girling Powerstop servo to my Vitesse during its rebuild.

I think its a Model Mk2a, here's a couple of photo's of the Servo and brackets.

The servo was off a Mk2 Bond Equipe from a local Scrapyard in the early 80's, I had if fully rebuilt.

Its a slightly different size and shape to the Servo's offered now.

Hope it helps?

Gary

I'd advise being very careful when using a Rivet gun, its easy for it to bounce and mark/dent/scratch the paint

You may be better drilling the holes before painting, but then again you cannot tweak the position of the side strip then.

I didn't have this problem, both doors/skins were original and in good condition when I had my Vitesse re-sprayed during its restoration.

Its worth dipping the end of the rivets in Waxoyl or Dinitrol rustproofer when you fit them to help prevent rust breaking through

I didn't have any issues with the paint cracking when riveting the clips in place.  

Spotted this on E-Bay, interesting idea, I wonder if it would run Ok?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIU.....4:g:hocAAOSw9OFZKcPi

Worn Thrust Washers maybe?

Could be a dodgy rev counter Marcus

Does the Rev counter react the same in direct 4th with no Overdrive engaged?  

Quoted from RobPearce

I had those symptoms on a D-type (GT6) and was unable to fix it. However, my conclusion was that the problem was a worn casing around the operating valve shuttle, resulting in poor oil pressure when hot. My instinct is that poor oil pressure is more likely to explain such symptoms than a worn cone clutch, as the latter should be just as bad when cold.

So the question is why your oil pressure has been poor and why it stayed good on Sunday.

Rob

What your saying makes sense, the Oil Pressure will be higher with cold oil.

I think I need to take the gearbox cover off and attach an oil pressure guage that reads up to 600 PSI and go for a good run (A mate I know has got a suitable guage and connection pipe)

What Oil Pressure reading should I get when Hot with a good condition 'A' Type Overdrive, I should imagine around the 450 PSI Mark?

Another suggestion I've been given is that some sort of Additive may have been added to the Gearbox oil in the past, but surely the overdrive would slip all the time if this where the case?