garyf
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Posts posted by garyf
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Yes they are supposed to move, had to unseize one side on my Vitesse
Plenty of WD40 then Oil and Dinitrol fluid to keep them free.
I believe that if they do seize up this cause the Welds to fracture, there is quite a bit of scuttle shake on a Herald/Vitesse Convertible over bumpy roads -
All good advice above, if you do a search on door seals in the Herald/Vitesse section of the Forum you will see posts showing the correct profile of seals which will certainly help with the door closing problem.
I suspect (Even though your car appears to be low mileage) that the door seals have been replaced sometime over the past 40+ years?
I purchased a set of the correct profile door seals for my convertible during its rebuild off Bill at Rarebits4classics several yeas ago, and my doors closed without slamming.
I believe Bill's now ceased trading but I maybe wrong, Woolies the Trim people do a similar Lip type door seal which isn't too expensive.
Gary
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Are you trying to get rid of the old Varnish?
If so paint stripper might get it off.
I refurbished a Formula Wood rimmed wheel for my Vitesse many moons ago, I think I removed the old varnish with fine sandpaper too.
The secret to a deep shine with standard varnish is Lots of coats rubbed down in between each coat, I must have put 15 coats on mine and used Wire wool if I remember correctly? -
I also fitted the Moulded Newton Commercial carpets during the rebuild of my Vitesse and the fit was excellent, especially around the tricky Gearbox tunnel area?
They are not cheap though, listed at £266 on the Canley Site
You will find with the cheaper carpets that the fit, especially around the Gearbox Tunnel will not be good, it just depends how bothered your are? -
There used to be a Triumph/Leyland Dealer in a small town called Heanor just north of Derby, might have been a Kenning's but I cannot remember the name of it.
What I do remember is it closed down in the late 70's and was a private Car Sales lot and garage for a while, they still had the Mk2 Vitesse Two Seater Beater large size Advert up on the Wall!
I was working in the Area at the time but never got the courage up to nip in and ask if I could have it, I think they have a similar one in the TSSC Museum. -
Don't forget the rubber/leather type washers that fit between the clip and the channel?
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Evostick do a spray version now, I've used it for sticking vinyl to metal with no trouble?
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Yes, Mk2 Vitesse Spring for the Rotoflex rear suspension, an uprated one if you plan on carrying heavy loads?
The standard Herald Estate Spring is a different profile, you may find the camber all wrong and it ruining the Rotoflex couplings or CV Joints -
I will have to try swopping the injectors over then Colin to see if it is a dodgy injector?
When we re-fitted everything after sorting the Pedestal, Nos 2 & 5 took the longest to bleed through, Is this due to the Banjo connection?
We did also have to recrimp No.2 Injector pipe at the Metering unit Banjo connection due to damage to the nylon pipe?
My mate made up a piece of soft wood with a hole to re-crimp the connection and we took the banjo and pipe off to do this?
I went for a 10 Mile drive after though, with the car running well on all 6, the plug colour was the same on all cylinders, a very light beige colour which I thought might be slightly weak, although checking with a colour tune showed it to be about right.
I'm away for the weekend again and then back to work Monday, so will try and have a look over the Bank Holiday weekend?
Never a dull moment with a TR5 -
I've had problems with No.2 and No.5 sticking, After the 10 Mile run I gave the car a Wash and leather down,
On restarting with the engine still warm it started on 4 then 5 and eventually 6 after a bit of reving, covered the Mrs car in Black Soot with the Miss-firing though
I suppose I could learn to live with it as part of the quirks of the Lucas PI System, with New Injectors at £70 each I will have too!
I'm sick of spending money on it at the Mo? -
A quick update on my Pedestal seal troubles, after having the Pedestal Line bored and fitted with the correct size Phosphor Bronze Bush by an Engineer Mate (Thanks Bernard) together with the fitment of another two new seals the leaking problem is solved
Went for a 10 mile drive and no leaks, in fact with the rebuilt Metering unit and exchange injectors the car ran well and the plugs where a much better colour.
Still seem to have trouble with poor starting though ,
I seem to get sticking injectors even though thet are reconditioned ones, will see how I get on after completing a few more miles, I seem to have spent most of the Summer tinkering with the Car and not driving it , -
I'm still having problems with leaking seals on the Dizzy to Metering Unit Drive Pedestal of my 5 after replacing them
Can the drive gear wear out and cause new seals to fail?
Any advice welcomed
Gary -
Quoted from Davemate
My pi steering wheel has now got to the point where I don't want to use it anymoreThe mounts are nothing complicated, just a U shaped bracket that is welded on to the front chassis extension?
Some measurements off a Vitesse or late Herald Chassis should sort it.HB Denotes Vitesse '6' 1596cc.
See Canley Classics site Archive tech info page?
HB 1596cc Vitesse 6
HC 1998cc Vitesse 2 litre (I, II)
KC 1996cc GT6 I, II
KE 1998cc GT6 III
DG 1296cc 1300 Toledo
DH 1296cc 1300 Dolomite
RD 1296cc 1300 Front Wheel Drive
RF 1296cc 1300 Front Wheel Drive
WB 1493cc 1500 Front Wheel Drive
YC 1493cc 1500 Rear Drive Dolomite
FP 1493cc MG Midget
MB 1998cc 2000 Mk I
ME 1998cc 2000 Mk II
ML 1998cc 2000 Mk II
CP 2498cc TR5 very early TR6
CR 2498cc
MKI 2.5PI Saloon, Estate
(132 bhp good engine!)
or Late TR6
(125bhp not so good engine)
MG 2498cc MkII 2.5 Pi Saloon, Estate
MM 2498cc 2.5 TC Saloon, Estate
MN 2498cc 2500S, Estate
Note that: DG, DH, WB, YC, FP engines are similar to FH, FM. RD, RF engines are similar to GE, FD.MB, ME & ML Triumph 2000 Engines
MG, MM & MN Triumph 2500/2.5S Engines.
MFA No Idea?Quoted from qed296
Got my copy I purchased off eBay today for £7 posted and it's in amazing condition.
Just a quick one,do the brake lines run in the chassis and fuel line,I've not studied the book properly but can't see a clear enough picture (may be in written form the route but only had a quick flick through )
Well done, the book will be a great help with the restoration?
The Brake & Fuel Lines run down the side of the Near Side (Right hand drive car) Main Chassis Rail, outside.
They are both held with a special U type clip that fits in the holes down the length of the Main rail, have a look at the Canley Classic page earlier, Item 36?Quoted from qed296
Got my copy I purchased off eBay today for £7 posted and it's in amazing condition.
Just a quick one,do the brake lines run in the chassis and fuel line,I've not studied the book properly but can't see a clear enough picture (may be in written form the route but only had a quick flick through )
Well done, the book will be a great help with the restoration?
The Brake & Fuel Lines run down the side of the Near Side (Right hand drive car) Main Chassis Rail, outside.
They are both held with a special U type clip that fits in the holes down the length of the Main rail, have a look at the Canley Classic page earlier, Item 36?You need a Torque wrench?
100 lb/ft sounds about right.Thats the one!
Helped enormously with my restoration?Thats the one!
Helped enormously with my restoration?One thing with the Mk2 Vitesse which is different to most other Herald/Vitesse models as far as I'm aware is that the rear brake pipe linking the rear Drum brakes is actually clipped to the underside of the Bulkhead and not to the Chassis.
If you can get a copy of the Practical Classic Vitesse restoration book form the early 1990's this will be a mine of information for all aspects of the rebuild and show's a number of photo's of Brake pipe routing?
With regard to the front brake pipe link between the disc brakes and the low level four way junction on the Chassis, this is routed to the back of the front chassis cross member and then up via the suspension Turrets, here's a photo of the front of my old Car during its rebuild which was based on what I saw on other Mk2 Vitesse's and also the PC Book.
Hope it helps?One thing with the Mk2 Vitesse which is different to most other Herald/Vitesse models as far as I'm aware is that the rear brake pipe linking the rear Drum brakes is actually clipped to the underside of the Bulkhead and not to the Chassis.
If you can get a copy of the Practical Classic Vitesse restoration book form the early 1990's this will be a mine of information for all aspects of the rebuild and show's a number of photo's of Brake pipe routing?
With regard to the front brake pipe link between the disc brakes and the low level four way junction on the Chassis, this is routed to the back of the front chassis cross member and then up via the suspension Turrets, here's a photo of the front of my old Car during its rebuild which was based on what I saw on other Mk2 Vitesse's and also the PC Book.
Hope it helps?Some slight routing difference between models, is it a Herald or Vitesse and what year?
Overdrive Fault
in Drivetrain
Posted
I've had issue on my TR With the Overdrive slipping when hot (Standard 'A' Type)
I was informed of this fault by the previous owner who told me he had adjusted the operating lever and cleaned everything inside the unit as per the WSM, he'd also fitted a new Solenoid and changed the Oil twice but still the problem persisted, he was advised by an Overdrive specialist that the cone clutches may be worn and the unit needs a recon.
However, whilst travelling home on Drive it day the over-drive worked all the way home with no slipping
The Over-drive always worked correctly when cold, but normally after 15-20 Miles or so it would start to slip and disengage completely with any throttle (It engaged correctly when free wheeling but as soon as power was applied would slip out?), however on the journey home on Sunday, around 35 Miles it worked all the way back even on hard acceleration?
Any ideas?