CharlieB

Yes, got mine out by carefully cutting a slot with a hacksaw then attacking with a big screwdriver.

When I said clinch nut I actually meant the ones you fit in metal with a press or hammer, the correct name is hanknut or pemsert. But in fact you could use the type you fit with a rivet gun type thing ie rivnut or nutsert. They only really work in metal.
There is another option to fit directly in fibreglass & that's the jacknut (I've got the name right this time) its what Triumph used in the 1500 spoiler (I know because I had to replace one but could only find metric).

I made up small stainless steel plates with a clinch nut in the centre (a standard nut welded in place would do just as well) & a  1/8 hole either side. These were rivited to the inside of the fibreglass valences.

They are the correct shocks for a standard or slightly lowered car. I agree with mikeyb, if yours is significantly lowered you will need shorter shocks, shorter compressed length to give you enough travel & shorter extended length so your shorter springs don't come loose on droop.

Also search "AVO bushes" the lower bushes on current AVO shocks are poorly designed.

Did you make those youself?

Will the carpet take up most of the overhang?

Sealed or greasable are ok but you want Heavy Duty for the driveshaft otherwise you will be replacing them again soon. HD UJ's will typically cost over £20 but are worth it imho. Standard are fine for the propshaft.

My swing spring required 18mm diameter buttons, I guess it varies from spring to spring?

I turned some up on a lathe using nylon bar of the correct diameter (18mm x 5mm thick IIRC), I'm sure you could use a saw if you're careful.

Are you trying to remove the hubs to fit the new studs? Can you not drill a hole in the brake back plate & fit them that way?

No the tie rod length does not effect whether or not you get tuck under, only the swing axle length (& angle & spring rate & .....)
Obviously rotoflex cars don't suffer from tuck under.

They look like APT ones
http://www.aptfast.com/

The usual choices are 155/80 (std) or 175/70 which gives the same overal diameter so the gearing is the same & the speedo is still accurate. 165/70 might be ok, your speedo will over read slightly. 165/80 would be too big?

There's at least 2 different offset 5.5J steels available. Mine are 16mm & I've also seen 3/8" (~10mm) which would be worse. The size & offset is stamped on the rim.

For the MkIII the standard offset is 0.88" or 22mm (don't believe the websites that say 0.5")
I would think the early cars would be the same?

There's no reason to put bigger wheels on the back with all the weight up front unless you're going drag racing :)

Are they the Dolomite ones? You may need spacers to fit those depending on the offset.

Yes the holes must go at the top, they allow in the air that lifts the dashpot piston.

Have you noticed one of your stub stacks is upside down?
Sorry, I'll get my anorak :)

Were the old ones grade 8 ? I don't know I'm just asking.


I think he fitted Nilos seals so no dust cap required.

It's not about self-locking, it's whether the bolts have stretched, maybe I'm paranoid but when it comes to brakes I'd want to know for sure.

Canleys sell the caliper spacer kits so they should know the torque figures or talk to a brake specialist.

I don't agree, these are about the most important bolts on the whole car!
When you torque up a bolt it stretches & puts a preload on the joint, if these bolts are not done to the correct torque the force produced when you brake hard could overcome this preload & the caliper will flex.

ps Are you re-using the old bolts? I would have thought they may be use once only jobbies but I may be wrong.

The 0.7 master cylinder is GMC209 from the usual suppliers Canleys, James Paddocks etc. Doesn't matter if its plastic or aluminium.

Some people have used the cheaper Wilwood master cylinders from motorsport suppliers although they do have a smaller resevoir.