Mark Hammond

Certainly it was +/ve earth when built, the alternator gives it away as -/ve earth now....

Mark

From what I recollect, there is 2 clamps (one each side) holding the panel to the main dashboard.  You may need to remove the choke cable at the carburettor end and undo the other switches, but to remove the main master light switch you just need to undo the switch by removing the bezel.

Mark

Well for a start, you have the wrong plugs, which will never help, I think it's unlikely that the distributor is the culprit, pitted points however, again, will never help.  I might suggest that the correct distributor, new, well adjusted points of a known good brand, the correct plugs, of a known good brand, condenser and coil ditto and set the static timing correctly "to the book" is a good basis for a starting point (no pun intended).  I'd set the carburettor as per the book and make running adjustments from there given modern fuel burns hotter than the old 4 star that this car would have been designed for.

Mark

Yes, if the original type, but you can have the later sort if you prefer.

Mark

To my thinking this is ignition related.  Most running issues are.  I’d put it back to plugs, points, condenser and coil.  Yes, first ring up a gravity fed temporary fuel supply obviously don’t drive it like that but isolate a weakness with the fuel pump first.  It will be something simple, most breakdowns or running issues on older cars are ignition related rather than fuel related.

Mark

It might be ignition related but I’d try substituting the Petrol pump with a known good one to eliminate it first.  Just as an afterthought, it should have a guaze filter in the top so it’s likely that someone has been at it.  Check that the pump is operating and is the correct pump and that it is correctly locating on the cam.  Some pumps require a block or spacer between the engine and the pump and it’s possible it is missing or equally it requires one.

Mark

I'd check that isn't old and stale petrol in the tank first.  That will make it run badly.  The slow running jet is notorious for blocking on the Solex, otherwise it is a good match for the 6 port 1200 engine.  The Stromberg isn't the best choice of alternative, I'd consider a Weber or twin SUs before that choice.  There really isn't anything wrong with the Solex if well sorted and set up properly unless you are after more performance, and then there are a whole host of other considerations as well.

Mark

Um Yes,

M.

Honestly?  I wouldn’t worry.  Fit your engine and enjoy your car.

Mark

£1000 seems as cheap as a budgie to me!  I think you've done alright there.  You couldn't get the old one reconditioned for that with provenance.

Mark

Paint stripper or a mild media blasting should help.  For a more natural lock, I'd go semi-gloss black, I cannot recall what the original was but it was probably a full on gloss.

Cheers,


Mark

'71 convertible what?  Vitesse or Herald?

Mark

I thought that the flat one was for the coil spring and the bevelled one for the diaphragm type, but I could be wrong.....  Undo the slots, take the bearing off the carrier and drift it off the sleeve?  It's been a while since I've had one apart.

Mark

I'd go the 13/60 (small crank GE series) route, easiest, cheapest and 60ish BHP to give ok performance.

Mark

Late 13/60's had 'em too..........

M.

As good as it gets, IMHO is Chic Doig in Cardenden, Fife, however, he couldn't be further away!  He restored my Herald and 12 years later it still looks fabulous.  If you can stomach the journey and the flight back and vice-versa, well worth doing.

Mark

5. Don't bother.

M.

Yes slightly.

Mark

I spent many a summer holiday in Malta in the back of a 13/60 Estate as a kid back in the '70's and the bloody thing was like a kiln!!!

M.

Beware if you are going to replace the whole lower rear wing in its entirety.  None of the pattern wings fit correctly and even a NOS genuine factory original is no mean feat to fit correctly and successfully.  The problem is that the wing bows in the middle as a correct fitment from new and the pattern replacements are flat and it is very difficult to maintain the original bowed shape.  However, if you are replacing the flat section between the wheel arch and the door below the lower swage line then that is relatively simple.  Repair sections are cheap and can take in the wheel arch or just the flat bit.  I'd measure the other side and use that as a datum unless the other side is missing/rotten/smashed in!  No use using measurements from another car as they all vary colossally!  If all else fails just do it by eye.

Mark

Is your Herald one of those Australian versions built with Air Conditioning Nick?  If not, how do you stay cool in it?

Mark

Quoted from BiTurbo228

That's brilliant news good to see her back and in one piece.

What's the little red companion? I recognise the silhouette but it's baffling me!

Quoted from 948coupe Downunder

With regard to the clutch you may find that much of the heaviness of the peddle comes from the heavy return spring adjacent to the slave cylinder maybe changing that out might just make things a little easier   maybe enough that a servo may not be needed

Plank of wood and a trolley jack?

M.

Quoted from Bitumen Boy

Perhaps it's different in the big cities, but from my own observations automatics still seem to be relatively uncommon on UK roads. A shame as I don't want to be faffing with a manual 'box on my next modern, all that clutchwork in traffic is too much like hard work to my mind.