Anthony

Thanks, Nick. That's an interesting thread. I've spoken with the manufacturers about their measuring methods in the past. Newman were extremely helpful indeed. They answered every question I had without hesitation. Kent and Piper were far less receptive of my questions. Looks like I might end up having to measure (and probably purchase) more camshafts than I'd originally anticipated. I'll add my findings to the forum when I get round to it. This is a side-project so it might be a while.

Thanks Amy. I'm already well-verse in camshafts. I'd like to know, how did Triumph, and how do Kent, Newman, and Piper measure their duration -- as I know for a fact they don't use 50 thou. Thanks.

I'm currently playing with some unknown aftermarket camshafts. I'd like to see how they compare to the original Triumph camshafts, as well as those offered by the likes of Kent, Newman, and Piper, etc. Is anybody able to confirm how each of these parties measure their duration? i.e. Is list measured as soon as the valve leave the seat? -- Is is at 5 thou lift? -- Is it at 50 thou lift? I'm guessing the aftermarket manufacturers start the measurement as soon as possible to make their cams should "bigger", but wondered if anyone knows exactly what their measurement methods are? Thanks.

Ian, is your starter motor a Wosp or PowerLite? Also, did you retain the original spacer when fitting your starter motor?

I'm guessing you're using either a PH3, or a TH7-6 cam? My cam has a little more duration than they have, but not too much more.

Thanks. Is that still a good starting point for a high compression engine with a race cam? Just want to make sure I don't do anything that's going to cause any damage.

Currently doing the car's rewiring, so I can alter it as needed/recommended.

I'm just about to buy a modern pre-engaged starter motor for my GT6. The car's engine has been rebuilt to 2.6litre spec. The gearbox is a reworked GT6 item. I've been told that the early GT6 and Vitesse cars had a starter motor with a 89mm locating register (the part of the starter motor that locates into the rear engine plate) -- whereas the later GT6 and the TR6 cars had a 98mm locating register on their starter motors. My guess is that the early cars had an inertia starter motor with a spacer, which not only brought the 98mm hole in the engine's back-plate down to 89mm, but also ensured the original bendix located in the correct position -- and that the later TR6 cars had a pre-engaged starter motor which did not require a spacer. But this doesn't account for the later GT6 cars (which I believe always had a spacer and a inertia starter motor?) Does anybody know if this information is correct, and which starter motor (89mm GT6 vs 98mm TR6) I should purchase for my GT6 with 2.6 engine and GT6 gearbox? , and whether I require the original spacer or not? (My engine back-plate has a 98mm hole in it for the starter motor, but I believe all cars have this, and that the spacer reduces this to 89mm on the GT6 and Vitesse) Thanks.

I've recently purchased a 123ignition distributor for my GT6. I have the Tune+ item, which offers customisable timing. My 2.6 engine is very far from standard, and has yet to be run. How would I go about deciding what timing I should use as a baseline for my engine before I take it to the rolling-road to be set-up optimally? Thanks.

Would anybody happen to have a couple of +40 County Flat-top pistons for a 2.5 engine? I only need two, so don't want to buy a full set if I don't need to. Thanks, Anthony.

I'm looking at adding another car to the collection. I've been wanting a TR for some time, but have never been able to make my mind up on which one. So, I'm hoping you guys can help me think things through. These are my thoughts so far: TR2: I really like the interior and exterior design of the TR2. However, I've heard they aren't great to drive, and that they aren't practical. Consequently, it might not get used very much. TR3: I prefer the looks of the TR2 compared to the TR3. I don't know if the TR3 drives any differently/better than the TR2. Practicality would be the same, which I'm guessing is poor. TR4: I like the looks of the TR4, but it's not as striking/unusual as the TR2/3. I prefer the interior of the "White-dashboard" TR4s compared to the later "Wooden-dashboard" TR4s. I've heard the TR4 is better to drive than the TR2/3, but with basically the same engine. The TR4 would also be more practical than the TR2/3, so it would probably get used more. TR5: I Like the exterior of the TR5 a little more than the TR4, but I prefer the interior of the early TR4 compared to the TR5. The TR5 has the same practicality as the TR4, but the TR5 would be nicer to drive, due to the different engine. Consequently, the TR5 would get used more than all of the aforementioned cars. Prices are high for the TR5, especially compared to the TR6 which is mechanically identical. TR6: I prefer the exterior design of the TR5 and TR4 compared to the TR6. I prefer the interior of the early TR4 compared to the TR6. The TR6 will drive the same as the TR5, so it will be the nicest driving car, as well as the most practical, Prices are more reasonable for a TR6 compared to a TR5. So, based on exterior looks I'd go for the TR2 or TR5 Based on interior design I'd go for the TR2 or early TR4 Based on practicality and drivability I'd probably go for the TR5 or TR6 -- Although I haven't driven any kind of TR yet, so I could be completely wrong here Based on pricing I'd go for the TR6 over the TR5 I'm hoping you guys can chime-in and give me your thoughts on the different cars. How do they compare to one another in terms of drivability and practicality, etc. What are there driving positions, leg-room, etc. like? Is there anything else I've missed? I think my order of priority is 1) Drivability, followed by 2) Practicality, then 3) Looks. P.S. -- I already own a Herald 1200 Saloon with a Spitfire MK2 specced engine, as well as a GT6 Mk3 with a high performance 2.7 litre engine The Herald has the offset driving position that I'd like to avoid as much as possible, and the GT6 has a similar (albeit higher spec) engine to the TR5/TR6 Do the TR cars have a better driving position than the Herald? Will the TR5/TR6 be too similar to the GT6 (because of the engine)? Or will the driving position and convertible-factor make them completely different experiences? Thanks, Anthony.

Thanks again all. A bike trailer would certainly be an easy option. As I don’t have a tow-bar I’d have to price that up against the cost of hiring a van. If I hire a van I’ll have to pay a mileage excess, whereas if I use my own car I’ll save on that, but would have to pay for a tow-bar (which could come in handy again in the future). The bike trailer is probably the way to go, but if there are any other suggestions I’d still like to hear them. Thanks, Anthony.

Thanks Guys. Although the bike is currently located in France it is still registered in the UK. The plan is/was to: 1) Go and inspect the bike; 2) Do a bank transfer and complete the V5 document; 3) Bring the bike home. Due to sitting for many years I don't want to start the bike until I've got it home and given it a thorough service and going-over.

I've seen a motorbike that I'd like to buy, but I'm in Kenilworth, Warwickshire, and the bike is located in Saint Tropez, France -- about 1,000 miles from me. The bike is a collectors item and has only done 2,500 miles from new, so I don't want to ride it home. Has anybody got any ideas/suggestions regarding how to get to France and bring the bike back? I'm guessing I could hire a van and put it in the back (making sure it's properly secured). But, I haven't (yet) found a company that will allow me to take their hired van out of the country. And, they seem to impose a 100 mile per day driving limit, after which they charge 20p per mile, so that's likely to add an additional £380 to the cost. Anybody got any suggestions?

Rear spring is in reasonable condition. Not binding, and the buttons are present. I'm planning on swapping to a rotoflex rear-end in the future. I think the rotoflex set-up has less travel than the swing axle set-up, so I wanted to get the ride quality as good as possible before making the swap.