John Bonnett

I've found a use for two bonnet cones I had in stock. Rubber buffers for the engine cover. So, more Triumph in the G15!.

Not an absolutely straightforward fit because the threaded shanks on the cones were not long enough. I had to fabricate a couple of adaptors from some thick wall 1/2" o/d stainless steel tubing. I welded a 5/16"UNF nut on one end to suit the shank on the cone and died an M12 thread on the other end to fit the brackets on the chassis.

Quoted from byakk0

Looks like all your meticulous work is paying off, John. It's starting to look like a car once more

Unfortunately it will all have to come to pieces very shortly to go for painting but that will be the last time and once back with me i can start the build proper.

I heard yesterday that my stainless steel fuel tank is finished and will be with me next week. I need to check it fits before the body goes off for painting.

So one might think that it is nearly done but as we all know, it is the detail and finishing that takes an age.

Quoted from Alex

Can't imagine you'd get many complaints from anyone here John.......anything people learn can be a benefit in some way at some point in time.
Alex

That's really kind of you Alex; thank you. But I have, and am trying to restrict my posts to topics that can be applied to our cars and which will perhaps be of interest. I would draw the line at anything which is G15 specific and cannot be applied to Triumphs.

So, back to the build. I managed to finish the mounting for the Astra expansion tank which has turned out very nicely. I used 1mm stainless for the inner mount which with the gussets and bracing is remarkably stiff. To aid removal (if required) with the rear window in position, I fitted captive studs rather than nuts and screws. A couple of pics attached. I fitted the engine cover to check for clearance which is okay.

Quoted from TOG

Hello John. Just found this project that you are working on Great job . I have just purchased a ginetta g15 here in Ireland.Will be a long mission but looking foward to it .I am looking for advice from any quarter and your project seems to be the only one that is current . I have asked for advice on a couple of forums but replies are slow maybe its holiday time .  my main request at moment is process of removing body from chassis. Any advice would be appreciated  TOG

Hello TOG. I'll be very happy to share whatever information I have with you but it may not be appropriate on a Triumph forum. I'll drop you a PM and we can continue privately. To open the pm click on the message notification below your name on the top right hand corner of the opening page.

cheers

John

I was hoping to have both the expansion tank and the battery mounted today but as a result of other constraints half the mounts are done on the expansion tank and the battery not started But there is always tomorrow (one hopes!)

For anyone upgrading their cooling system I can recommend the Astra expansion tank. My friend Royboy used it on his GT6 and I followed suit on my GT6 and the lightweight. It has no mounting lugs so not the easiest to install but that is the only downside that I have come across. The mole grips are doing the job of a spring clip available from Vauxhall only in a packet of 8. So for anyone contemplating the same job, I have 7 spare clips.

Quoted from roger.england

Great to see the progress you've made John. Are you using wooden drive couplings? 😉

Roger

Indeed I am Roger. I'm surprised nobody has thought of using wood before.

Work is progressing again today. I'm making mountings for the Astra MK4 expansion tank which  I've gone for again because it has worked so well on both the GTs. A big plus is the optional coolant level sensor. Once that's finished i can decide where the battery is going. With that all done we're pretty close to a final strip down of the chassis for shot blasting and painting.

Having made the adjustment to the caster it was a huge relief that the body still fitted the chassis. In fact this is the best that it has fitted by a long way and testimony to the fact that it is definitely now correct.

The second surprise was how much room there is in the engine bay and components like the coil packs and the alternator that I thought would be in accessible are actually quite easy to get at.

Quoted from Nick Jones

That engine looks right at home in there 🙂

Nick

It's a snug fit alright Nick. I hope everything clears the body when I drop it on.

Quoted from mpbarrett

interesting shape of battery what is it?
BTW enjoy your posts always so much work!

mike

Mike, thank you. It's a bike battery Odyssey PC680

I made the clamp today which finishes the battery box. I had to improvise with the clamping rods which were made from 4mm stainless steel round bar welded into the end of an M6 cap head.

So as a change from welding, I've done some welding today. I've made a battery box. The normal position for the battery in a G15 is in the front of the body forward of the wheel arch. Apart from helping with the balance, in my opinion the advantages of having the battery in the engine bay far outweigh having it in the front. So it's going in the back.

Quoted from RedRooster

Good progress John, had a feeling that the gaps may end up bigger after welding, can't say why just a hunch you know how it is sometimes.

That is the big problem Brad as we both know. Even when everything is tied firmly down during welding, the internal stresses can cause movement when unconstrained. I was lucky with the caster and ended up with pretty much what I was after.

The engine mount is now made and the assembly temporarily bolted in place.

The engine/gearbox assembly  is now bolted in at the gearbox end and is ready for the rear mount to be fabricated.

Nice piece of work Hazen. A really useful flat load area.

A bit more progress today getting the rolling chassis together. Next job is offering up the engine and making the mounts.

Well not quite spot on but I can do no better and they are the same each side.

Quoted from RedRooster

What about when the welds cool? 😉

Exactly Brad, that's when it will be spot on when everything is cold and unclamped. Or is that just in my dreams? 🙂

Quoted from RedRooster

Can't make the noise John its 0.05 off, shocking.
RR

It'll be spot on after welding 😀

I cannot proceed knowing that the caster angle is four degrees when it should be six. This could make all the difference between a good drive and a nightmare. So, I've spent a bit of time on it today and we're well on the way to getting it right. A couple of photos attached. Just got to weld it up now and fingers crossed nothing moves when the clamps are released.

Quoted from timbancroft61

Used to be a bloke who hillclimbed an orange G15 at Gurston, Andrew ????, it was some car.

The events also featured Nic Mann and his gorgeous Morris Minor with a Rover V8 turbo, that car was something.

John, your car is going to be some machine.

I wish I had your confidence Tim 🙂

I'm back on it now, rarin to go after the holiday in France. I did say that I would put it together and try it with the current 4 degrees of caster but I've decided to sort it out now and adjust it to as near the 6 degree factory figure that I can. Unlike the Triumph, caster is set by kicking up the front longitudinal chassis tubes which to my mind is a point of weakness. So the plan is to use the workshop floor as a jig and bolt the chassis down to it level in both directions. I shall then cut the chassis tubes part the way through and jack the front up to the required angle. Bolt that down and then weld it. Distortion and spring back are the main concerns but I'm hoping the end result will be a lot closer than it is now. Photos to come as progress is made.

Quoted from byakk0

I've also discovered my hatch needs to shift to the left about 1/8"~3/16". Anyone have any ideas how to do that? I've loosened the bolts at the hatch-to-spring and the spring-to-roof and there doesn't seem to be any sort of right-left adjustment.

Odd I know but I had the same problem and found that packing between one hinge and the tailgate solved the problem. I still don't know why but it worked.

Quoted from chrisimp

Nice to see another resto taking place! I found this post via looking at g15 pics on google so had to join to say great work, looking forward to seeing it in paint!

I own a green one which I restored around 5/6 years ago. Great little cars

I've been tied up with other commitments for the last month or two but next week I hope to get back on the G15 and make some progress.

As far as the colour is concerned I haven't made my mind up yet except that it will be a bright colour.

Mark, I can thoroughly recommend an air rivet gun. I bought one some years ago to rivet the floor in on a Silva Phoenix; hundreds of them. Worth every penny and they can cope with stainless rivets with ease. I bought one from Azminster Power Tools and at that time it was about fifty pounds. A bit more now but a great bit of kit.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-r15-air-riveter-kit-800435

cheers

John

Quoted from thescrapman

They are not really baffles but a couple of ramps in the perforated liner.

You can see right through the silencer

Thank you for the link.

At 4 inches in diameter I don't think one would fit between the chassis rails like the GT6 resonator box which is a shame because it would have been a good solution.

So I am looking at replacing the wheelbarrow exhaust with a standard GT6 system and hoping that it will be significantly quieter and not take the edge off the performance because of restricted gas flow.