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iggy

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Posts posted by iggy

  1. Quoted from glang-

    well they were all hand stamped but that should have been well over 50 years ago! However I cant see someone stamping it up with an invented number like that.

    The ratios seemed to stay the same right up to 1971 when the unit was aligned with the stronger Stag boxes although I think even then the ratios only changed slightly....

    ok didnt realise they were all hand stamped, i think possibly the original number stamped has been filed down and re stamped as it looks shiney compaired to the rest, agree with the ratio's only really slight differences

  2. Quoted from thescrapman-

    Gavin

    what size input shaft?

    there are 4 boxes it could be

    Stag big input shaft and bulge somewhere to show it has the better layshaft

    big saloon small input shaft 

    sprint longer small input shaft

    TR big input shaft

    Colin it was removed from a saloon il look to see if it has the bulge somewere

  3. my 2500 saloon had the same problem with no slack in drive shafts or prop new uj's all round new poly bushs on trailing arms and diff mount, replaced the bevel and thrust washers in the diff chris witor sells these washers in various sizes,

  4. ive read that page again and in the paragraph close ratio gears above the ratio chart he's refering to the ways of obtaining a close ratio gear set for a tr6 box, he then say's the readily available sprint gear set for 600 dollers to me this means cause its a readily available standard sprint box easy to aquire rather than paying out alot more for specialist gear sets in the chart below,

  5. glang if you look at the first link you sent me the sprint gearbox ratios are there in the ratio chart, moss europe and rimmers sell close ratio gear sets for the Tr6 gearbox which are exactly the same as the standard sprint gearbox 1st 2.19:1  2nd 1.57:1 3rd 1.23:1 4th 1:1

  6. Yes stonleigh is a good idea, id be happy with £250 as well,Yes the cross shaft pins do go fairly often, the box in my car has a roll pin added and seems good so far, how do i identify a proper sprint box? i  presume there will be specific part numbers on the casing?

  7. yes i have the 3.45 diff and 1st is pretty useless infact the gearbox really lets the rest of the car down untill you get into 3rd gear, although its one of the quietest smoothest triumph box's ive used or owned its an uprated strong A type overdrive box i bought from Tony lyndsey dean a couple of years ago unfortunatly  didnt look into the changing the ratio's before i bought it  im sure Tony could have sorted it for me  had i known,

  8. Sounds good Colin, Radders did tell me your tr6 came with a sprint box fitted he said it pulls really well in second gear, il be looking for a sprint gearbox now might have to take drive up to ixworth

  9. Thats very good bit of information thanks again glang, just 10 mins ago i found a close ratio tr6 gear set for sale on moss triumph web site, weather there gear sets are good quality or not i dont no but the ratios are exactly the same as the dolomite sprint ratios given in  the chart on the web site above, it seems even the early or late tr6 gearbox's have slightly taller gearing than the standard saloon box's. the reason im looking into this is my engine produces a fair bit more torque and bhp than standard and i find 2nd gear pretty much hopeless if im giving it some throttle

  10. Has the dolomite sprint manual gearbox got a longer second gear compaired to the saloon gearboxs? can i transfer parts from the sprint box into a saloon box if it has? or is there any where i can buy parts to achive the longer second gear ive read there was a leyland stn002 kit available years ago, thanks

  11. ive got the witor extractor manifold fitted to my mk2 saloon with power steering and theres 15 to 20mm clearance no problems with it, could you lever over the offending power steering pipe to give more clearance? 

  12. Quoted from glang-

    The rad came without any mounting flanges so rather than welding on aluminium angle I bonded it using epoxy metal. These then have bolted angles that fit onto the original mounting points all of which has worked really well and has easily been capable of surviving the vibration and temperatuchanges. Ok glad it worked for you

     

    Quoted from iggy-
    Quoted from glang-

    Trouble is epoxy metal could be a bit too good if you want to get the mesh off at any time. My new rad is actually held in with the stuff!

    thats stange so how do you get your radiator out what happen to the original mounting points for your rad

     

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