Steven Lowe

Good evening,                      thought i'd let you know i'v sorted the voltage stabilizer issue with your help thank you! following some advice i ran a cable from the other terminal on the back of the alternator to + side of the battery to take excess current back to the battery, i didn't do this when i first started the engine after the conversion and am told this probably blew the voltage stabilizer, i don't know if this is right but every thing seems good, the gauges all read properly! does it seem right to you?                                                             thanks again.

hello again                 ok took the regulator off the back of the speedo and according to my multi meter i'm getting 13 to 14 volts with the engine ticking over! obviously to much do i need a higher rated regulator? i forget to add that i fitted a new service kit to the alternator prior to testing ( regulator/rectifier/brushes/slip ring)                                                        thanks

i had the alternator bench tested at a auto electric store and said it was putting out 40 amps! i bought it s/h from a guy who said it came from a 1500 spitfire so do you think it's a bit to much for my 13/60, i don't have any extras drawing current just the basic stuff! but i'll check your suggestion .                                                        thank you

Good evening                     does anyone know if there is a relationship between me converting from dynamo to alternator and the coolant temp gauge reading very hot ( just short of the red) when the car is not over heating! renewed the sender and radiator cap to no avail, the needle was bang on the middle of the gauge prior to converting bit puzzled about this so any thoughts would be appreciated.                                          many thanks

Good evening all,                         I decided to convert from dynamo to alternator on my 13/60 and hope someones been through this! the alternator is fitted ok my issue is with the control box wiring the instructions i printed off and took in my garage, they  are, i Quote (. The thin black earth cable is not needed and can be disregarded. 2. The thin Brown/Green & thin Brown/Yellow cable should be joined, this is the connection between the small field terminal on the Alternator and the dash warning light. 3. This should leave you with 5 thicker cables, 2 x Brown/Blue (Lights), 1 x Brown/Yellow (Alternator) & 2 x Brown (Solenoid & Horn), these need joining together. it`s the section in bold i`m struggling with does it mean that all these cables are to be joined in one connector?     hope someone has the patience to read this!!                                                         Many Thanks

Many thanks for that guys looks like a plastic one then!

Evening all,                 I`m looking at getting a new transmission tunnel for the 13/60 as mine`s disintegrating at the front end, any thoughts on plastic versus fibre glass would be appreciated? there seems to be quite a few plastic one`s about for around £40/£50 but do they insulate and sound deaden as well as the more expensive fibre glass one`s!                                 Many thanks in anticipation.

Ahh!   no i never looked at that i`ll check it out thankyou.

Good Evening all,                            I have fitted the new needle valve which cured the fuel over flow at the carb but now she won`t tick over! revs Ok after a cough and splutter   ticked over like a sowing machine before, didn`t touch anything else apart from new gaskets, just the valve! any tips would be appreciated again.

Think your right about the gremlins that last post has nothing to do with me!

Morning,            It`s a mechanical pump that was fitted! i just fitted like for like, the only difference between the old and the new is the inlet and outlet on the new pump are offset while on the old one they are level with each other but it started fine and runs well!  i`ll order a new needle valve just to be sure, bit of a worry with fuel leaking so near the exhaust manifold, thanks for the tips.

Good evening all,                        Fitted a new fuel pump on the 13/60 yesterday and after a few minutes ticking over petrol started leaking quite seriously out of the carb (Stromberg cd150) can`t as yet see where it`s leaking from! anyone else experienced this?

Good evening,                   I have the half shafts assembled using the the  measurements  as per the workshop manual thanks for that, the problem i have now is the flinger is just rattling around on the half shaft and there doesn`t seem to be any means of attaching it to the trunnion! before i put the flinger and trunnion on the shaft i slid a jubilee clip along the shaft first to as a marker it also stopped the trunnion moving while i tapped the ball race on so at the moment it`s holding the flinger in place but it`s not ideal.......

Ok i`ll let you know how i get on

It didn`t look right so i measured the distance from the u/j to the flinger and it was about an inch less then on the half shaft i hadn`t yet dismantled so i must have gone to far hope you can make sense of that!

the shafts seem good, thats why i started this job the linings were contaminated with grease and it snowballed from there  i`ll strip it down again and try that method onwards and upwards!

That`s interesting because when i fitted the new needle bearing & ball bearing they seemed to be further down the shaft! could i have tapped them on to far? they didn`t seem to want to go any further.... 

It was pretty rough around the bearing area but it`s` cleaned up nicely 

Good evening,                      I`m a happy chappy! the hub puller arrived today from canleys and within 30 min`s i had both hubs off great bit of kit, so yes it does pay to get the right tools! only problem is the hub i hammered for so long was well warped so one is on the way from Spitfire Graveyard. normal service has been resumed......for now.

Hi,      Ordered one from Canleys considerably cheaper then Rimmers @ £65.00 + delivery i had to admit defeat with my methods! i had it soaking for 24 hrs in a bucket of 50/50 Acetone and old brake fluid ( i googled homemade penetration fluid and this one was the only one i had the ingredients for on a Sunday morning!) and it made not a jot of difference!! but it is very clean now!              thanks all

Hi saw that but very expensive at over £100.00 delivered! saw a similar one on ebay at half the price ( maybe i should be called tightwad)  but it  didn`t look as strong as the Rimmers one, had another bash today literally! and no luck at all can`t believe it`s so tight! be interested to know if anyone else has failed to get a hub off and resorted to the cutter? thanks for your help.

Hi,      I started off with a leggy puller but it snapped! i then bought a sealy puller that bolts on to just two of the wheel studs and as you say gave the bolt a few mighty whacks but to no avail! i might have got to the point know where the hub is probably u/s any way after so much violence,so i think maybe  i will have to get the grinder on it, spitfire graveyard sheffield can deliver a s/h hub for £22.50.                                          thanks anyway    

Evening all,                  I`m having a frustrating time trying to remove the rear hub from my 13/60! i have a good quality puller tightened up to the max and have hammered with a fury i didn`t know i possessed! i finally applied heat for half an hour and still won`t budge! any help would be appreciated as i am tiring rapidly......

Thanks for that bim didn`t  find a web site under that name but found one at Halfords for £55.00 delivered that received good reviews...

Good evening,                     I can`t get my 13/60 in the garage for a while so can anyone recommend a good waterproof car cover i  can buy in the meantime?  many thanks in anticipation.