Joe 90

Right, finally got to connect everything up and she started first time, yet to tune the carbs properly  (when it’s warmer). So one choke mechanism was built wrongly but perhaps giving them a good clean helped as well. Thanks guys fir your help.

Yes mate, did spot that, busy today but tomorrow I will connect the ancillaries and see if it starts properly (choke working). 🤞

Thanks gang, Right, success, I turned the dashpot round (the same as the photos in the manual), did the screws up loosely one by one whilst flipping the piston up and down and after several attempts it did not bind. Something must be slightly warped but at this age (so am I 🤣). Tomorrow we will see of it starts (properly) 🤷‍♂️

Right, removed both carbs (and knuckles) and they are 150 cdse types, one choke disc had been put in backwards and I cleaned them within an inch of their lives blowing all fuel ways clear. I also adjusted the float levels as another source said this was critical. I have another problem now, first carb was ok but I cannot centralise  the jet in the second carb without it fouling some how. I have checked the needle is straight and rechecked assembly several times. The piston will not seat with a clunk if the jet is anywhere near the needle. With the jet assembly removed the needle appears central. If I remove the dash pot it seats ok but if I remove the jet it also seats ok.    I am at a loss what to do next, any suggestions chaps?

Rob, I think your right, when I thaw my fingers out I may go and look. It’s a major problem as unlike a “proper” vitesse with opening front end and a handy tyre to sit on my kit car (gentry) has virtually zero room to work on the carbs!!!!

The choke cable operates a mechanism on the side of the carbs, not a spindle with disc on running through the carb to restrict the air like some. Yes the tickover cam is set right. I wonder if the choke mechanism is built correctly, discs inside with various holes in????

Guys, my vitesse 2 litre lump is very difficult to start from cold, I have rebuilt the carbs and once warm it runs fine. I am used to SU carbs where the choke is more normal !!  but these stromberg cd 150 (twin) have an unusual mechanism that I don’t understand. When the engine is warm the choke does not alter the running so I am guessing it’s not working at all. Any advise or reading matter on the subject gratefully received.

Yes all brake seals renewed, only one caliper giving problems, have taken pads out replaced with 8mm blanks and pistons pumped out and pushed back several times. Have bled it to death. Going to leave it and use it fir a while to see if it will bed down as the wheels can be locked up, just a lot of pedal travel. Thanks one and all for your input.

Thanks, the brake pads are not new and the face is ( I think) bedded correctly but will check later thanks fir the heads up 👍

I believe it’s down to one caliper (forgot to mention that) if I clamp the offside front flexible brake hose the pedal hardly moves, very solid. This calliper I have rebuilt several times and found nothing wrong.

New member here, sort of cheating as mine is a kit car (Gentry) built using Vitesse 2 litre running gear. Just finished rebuilding most things as it’s been stuck in a barn for years. I have rebuild all the brakes with new seals, master, slave, callipers but the brake pedal still goes almost to the floor after bleeding, bleeding and bleeding again, I renewed the flexi hoses as well. Rear brakes are adjusted correctly and pedal comes up a bit on second quick application. They are bedded in and I can lock up the wheels but the pedal is on the floor. Any help on this matter gratefully received.