Zendervision

Just curious, what's #26 'Germany only fan balance piece' in that diagram for?

Just curious, what's #26 'Germany only fan balance piece' in that diagram for?

I worried I'd damage the sleeve if I attempted to remove the flange so I left it in place. There is enough clearance on the oil seal housing to leave it on without it touching the block or seal.

I worried I'd damage the sleeve if I attempted to remove the flange so I left it in place. There is enough clearance on the oil seal housing to leave it on without it touching the block or seal.

UPDATE
I bought the repair sleeve and fitted it this weekend. On closer inspection, the groove in the crank was more pronounced than I thought, quite deep. The sleeve was very easy to fit - it hammered on without difficulty. I can confirm that the part number and size in the TSSC thread are correct for this engine at least. The sleeve is very thin and the oil seal isn't noticeably tighter than it was before.

I took the car out this evening to get the oil warmed up before coming home and parking over the same drip tray from my first post. And there's no point in an 'after' picture because the leak appears to have been completely eradicated. The tray is bone dry. I am thrilled with this result because I was embarrassed to leave the car anywhere when it left so much oil behind.

So thanks to Paudman for the link, and thanks to TSSC poster Derrick Binning for the idea and part number.

UPDATE
I bought the repair sleeve and fitted it this weekend. On closer inspection, the groove in the crank was more pronounced than I thought, quite deep. The sleeve was very easy to fit - it hammered on without difficulty. I can confirm that the part number and size in the TSSC thread are correct for this engine at least. The sleeve is very thin and the oil seal isn't noticeably tighter than it was before.

I took the car out this evening to get the oil warmed up before coming home and parking over the same drip tray from my first post. And there's no point in an 'after' picture because the leak appears to have been completely eradicated. The tray is bone dry. I am thrilled with this result because I was embarrassed to leave the car anywhere when it left so much oil behind.

So thanks to Paudman for the link, and thanks to TSSC poster Derrick Binning for the idea and part number.

I favour the jar opener tool (B&Q sell a beefier one called the boa-constrictor, which is superb) I never had any luck with the chain type.

Anyway I'd say have another crack getting the sump plug off, then just let a little bit out and check the dipstick. It'll be messy but the filter method will be messy as hell too thanks to the filter pointing downwards.

I went out again and put as much load on it as possible. Main beam, indicators, brake lights, heater blower and CD player. I got 12.8 across the battery, occasionally flickering to 12.9 when revved vigourously.

Just been out with my multimeter, and getting 13.3v across the battery with the headlights on. So you're right, I should worry less!

Thanks for that, Bodders.

The voltmeter's connected to the ignition switch, and only concerned me because I don't remember it moving about so much. The needle only used to fall a little when the lights were turned on, it certainly never fell off the scale. Doesn't this mean I'm running off battery power when driving with the lights on?

I'm planning on turning my attention to the rats nest of wiring and adding relays to the lights, sounds like a properly wired in voltmeter would be a sensible addition while I'm doing it.

What are the symptoms of a faulty voltage regulator in an alternator? I have a Lucas ACR which is putting out 13.3v at idle (across the battery) and flickering between 13.3 and 13.5 while revving.

My in dash voltmeter reads just over 13 while driving, but plummets to 11 if I use the indicators and falls off the scale if the headlights are turned on.

I replaced the worn brushes but that only perked it up a little bit. Belt tension is fine, red light is working as normal. After ten miles yesterday (during daylight!) the battery read 12.4v so it is charging.

Is this a voltage regulator thing or would I be wasting ten quid replacing it?

Interesting link, thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it resolves his oil leak.

My crank had a groove, but you could just barely feel it.

Interesting link, thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it resolves his oil leak.

My crank had a groove, but you could just barely feel it.

My worst fears came true. Pulled the box out, replaced the seal, hauled the box back in... and it still pees a load of oil all over the floor (less though).

All that work for nothing

My worst fears came true. Pulled the box out, replaced the seal, hauled the box back in... and it still pees a load of oil all over the floor (less though).

All that work for nothing

I used Halfords high temp paint on my block, on the heater I used ordinary car spray paint, the rocker cover and radiator was POR 15, and the alternator was Hammerited.

Two years on the only peeling has been around the thermostat (down to my poor prep work, I think) everything else is still looking good. It's really much more pleasant working on the engine when it's not oily.

You could put main beam and dipped headlights on different fuses so you're not suddenly without lights if the fuse blows.

Well, it was seeping oil from the fuel pump gasket, although even after fixing that it dumped a lake of oil on the ground. Box out then 🙁

Well, it was seeping oil from the fuel pump gasket, although even after fixing that it dumped a lake of oil on the ground. Box out then 🙁

Fuel pump gasket, I never looked at that! That's the sort of tip I was after.

I wanna go check it now, I wish it wasn't 1am with the car parked on the street 😀

Quoted from GT6 M

the oil seal  /s over the years  may have made a groove int crank.
I have this ont front pully, remedy, set oil seal further out to clear groove.

step 2, bung some oil stop leak in, it does work.  but not if its a bigg drip, which yours dont seem to be.

M

Fuel pump gasket, I never looked at that! That's the sort of tip I was after.

I wanna go check it now, I wish it wasn't 1am with the car parked on the street 😀

Quoted from GT6 M

the oil seal  /s over the years  may have made a groove int crank.
I have this ont front pully, remedy, set oil seal further out to clear groove.

step 2, bung some oil stop leak in, it does work.  but not if its a bigg drip, which yours dont seem to be.

M

Amazingly clean considering the oil slick underneath it.

Amazingly clean considering the oil slick underneath it.

Nah, it's engine oil. I got back underneath today to have a better look... the underside's curiously clean actually with no blatantly obvious leak, but I still think it's coming from the rear seal.

Don't want to have to pull the box and everything just to change a rubber ring 🤔