Zendervision
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Just curious, what's #26 'Germany only fan balance piece' in that diagram for?
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Just curious, what's #26 'Germany only fan balance piece' in that diagram for?
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I worried I'd damage the sleeve if I attempted to remove the flange so I left it in place. There is enough clearance on the oil seal housing to leave it on without it touching the block or seal.
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I worried I'd damage the sleeve if I attempted to remove the flange so I left it in place. There is enough clearance on the oil seal housing to leave it on without it touching the block or seal.
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UPDATE I bought the repair sleeve and fitted it this weekend. On closer inspection, the groove in the crank was more pronounced than I thought, quite deep. The sleeve was very easy to fit - it hammered on without difficulty. I can confirm that the part number and size in the TSSC thread are correct for this engine at least. The sleeve is very thin and the oil seal isn't noticeably tighter than it was before. I took the car out this evening to get the oil warmed up before coming home and parking over the same drip tray from my first post. And there's no point in an 'after' picture because the leak appears to have been completely eradicated. The tray is bone dry. I am thrilled with this result because I was embarrassed to leave the car anywhere when it left so much oil behind. So thanks to Paudman for the link, and thanks to TSSC poster Derrick Binning for the idea and part number.
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UPDATE I bought the repair sleeve and fitted it this weekend. On closer inspection, the groove in the crank was more pronounced than I thought, quite deep. The sleeve was very easy to fit - it hammered on without difficulty. I can confirm that the part number and size in the TSSC thread are correct for this engine at least. The sleeve is very thin and the oil seal isn't noticeably tighter than it was before. I took the car out this evening to get the oil warmed up before coming home and parking over the same drip tray from my first post. And there's no point in an 'after' picture because the leak appears to have been completely eradicated. The tray is bone dry. I am thrilled with this result because I was embarrassed to leave the car anywhere when it left so much oil behind. So thanks to Paudman for the link, and thanks to TSSC poster Derrick Binning for the idea and part number.
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I favour the jar opener tool (B&Q sell a beefier one called the boa-constrictor, which is superb) I never had any luck with the chain type. Anyway I'd say have another crack getting the sump plug off, then just let a little bit out and check the dipstick. It'll be messy but the filter method will be messy as hell too thanks to the filter pointing downwards.
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bodders1 wrote:You forgot the wipers ;-) I knew there was something else! No bulb in my courtesy light either. ;D Okay, well I'll leave it as it is for now. I will proceed but with caution.
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I went out again and put as much load on it as possible. Main beam, indicators, brake lights, heater blower and CD player. I got 12.8 across the battery, occasionally flickering to 12.9 when revved vigourously.
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Just been out with my multimeter, and getting 13.3v across the battery with the headlights on. So you're right, I should worry less! piman wrote:Hello Zendervision, you should see more than 14 volts from an ACR when revving the engine. (I'm assuming you were using a hand held meter for the first readings in your post). Regulators are cheap and easily changed so I would give it a go. Alec I couldn't get more than 13.6 today revving the engine so I suppose it couldn't hurt to change the regulator, especially as it's pretty much the cheapest and easiest thing to swap. Thanks for your help.
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Thanks for that, Bodders. The voltmeter's connected to the ignition switch, and only concerned me because I don't remember it moving about so much. The needle only used to fall a little when the lights were turned on, it certainly never fell off the scale. Doesn't this mean I'm running off battery power when driving with the lights on? I'm planning on turning my attention to the rats nest of wiring and adding relays to the lights, sounds like a properly wired in voltmeter would be a sensible addition while I'm doing it.
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What are the symptoms of a faulty voltage regulator in an alternator? I have a Lucas ACR which is putting out 13.3v at idle (across the battery) and flickering between 13.3 and 13.5 while revving. My in dash voltmeter reads just over 13 while driving, but plummets to 11 if I use the indicators and falls off the scale if the headlights are turned on. I replaced the worn brushes but that only perked it up a little bit. Belt tension is fine, red light is working as normal. After ten miles yesterday (during daylight!) the battery read 12.4v so it is charging. Is this a voltage regulator thing or would I be wasting ten quid replacing it?
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Interesting link, thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it resolves his oil leak. My crank had a groove, but you could just barely feel it.
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Interesting link, thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it resolves his oil leak. My crank had a groove, but you could just barely feel it.
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My worst fears came true. Pulled the box out, replaced the seal, hauled the box back in... and it still pees a load of oil all over the floor (less though). All that work for nothing