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GT6MK3

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Posts posted by GT6MK3

    gt6 hi torq starter motor

    in Electrical

    Posted

    John they also turn over at a much better speed, so the rrrrrrrrr,  rrrrrrrrrr,  rrrrrrrrrrr, rr rr r r r    r       r...   of the old starter nf a recalcitrent motor tends to become rr, rr, rr, rR ROAR!, quite a bit faster.

    C.

    Dipped in green glass

    in Projects

    Posted

    Close the garage door, rev hard, and see if it gets richer.  

    With long usb lead from outside the garage of course...

    Sometimes the trials and tribs of ever so slowly learning how to build stuff myself seem worth it.  I hope he welds that one in for you for nix.

    I've got an uninstalled CC sport alloy pump here on the shelf if you want it for your investigations

    Cars looking gorgeous,   Hope I get to see it.

    C.

    Dipped in green glass

    in Projects

    Posted

    I'm going to leave the dispariging remarks regarding my Gilligan like wiring well alone.  

    I am however looking forward to how you'll package and mount your air filter 😉

    But I digress.

    Having looked hard at ITB, I have a plan to do it one day.  I reckon you've got some fun bits to look at.  Regarding Map, I think you need to consider hose length.

    The folks at EFI hardware have this https://www.efihardware.com/pr.....al-length-connection

    Quoted Text
    Having equal length hoses ensures each vacuum pulse arrives at the collector so the map sensor can pick up the vacuum signals at the correctly timed intervals. Just like a tuned set of exhaust headers requires all the same length primary pipes to the collector to provide proper operation.


    I always figured I'd need 2 taps per pipe, one intake, one outlet.  I havent done the reading, and am happy to be wrong, but how often will you be braking and fueling at the same time?  I always figured that with a large enough outlet off each runner, equal lenght hoses/pipes, and a large enough map collector I would be able to vampire the brakes off the same spot.  Ditto Fuel Reg.

    For the intake valve, I figured on a 2nd tapping, with a second chamberand equal lenght pipes.

    Dipped in green glass

    in Projects

    Posted

    I'll be at EFI hardware (again!) in the morning.  Long story...

    Packaging is king under a GT6 bonnet.

    I seriously looked at running the injectors on the curve, but everyting I could find said having them that far out would cause low idle problems, and hesitation on hard accelleration.  Great position if the engine is always running hard like a race engine, but not so much for driving in traffic.  There was also a suggestion that on small runners like ours wall wetting becomes more of an issue than on big intakes like mustangs etc.

    Pretty sure I've found a way to package horizontal runners off the head with the injectors spraying into the valve, and dash 6 RMR fuel rail with an end fitting at the tight end.  Tight as hell, but doable.

    Best thing I did was give up on using the long series injectors.  There's a couple of really good options in short series EV6's.  I'm currently working with 0280156080.  These come out of 3.2 litre Vectras, and they're pretty much interchangeable with the 0280155777 spec wise, just 11mm shorter. (these both flow about 7% less then the 0280155712 that are in the smaller vectra 6).  $24 the set at a "You pull it" wreckers, plus $12 for a can of TB cleaner, and $10 for a rebuild kit.


    The nice thing with these is they take the standard Bosch JT style connector, not the USCAR type that needs lots of space.

    BTW, if anyone is looking for injectors with a lower flow for lower HP engines, have a look at the 0280155731.  These are the same shorter EV6 size, but flow about half as much.

    Electric Fan switch -  thingy

    in Electrical

    Posted

    Really?

    A fan with no relay - almost no work, almost guaranteed to fry old wiring eventually.

    A fan with one relay and a switch vs a fan with two relays and no switch.  about the same amount of work.

    If something goes wrong... a fan with one relay and a switch vs a fan with two and a switch, in case "A" you have to notice the problem and mechanically resolve it, but in case "B" it's resolved for you.

    I prefer doing a very little bit more work to end up with something a lot more failsafe.

    YMMV.

    C.

    Thinking about Rotoflex

    in Running Gear

    Posted

    I've decided to go from swing spring to roto, albeit with the Nick Jones CV conversion kit.

    the axles, CV kit and uprights are all sitting in the garage on the shelf.

    Apart from general inertia, the thing currently holding me up is

    (a) trying to figure a way to keep the Koni's from my swing spring set-up,  I'm hoping I can find a bracket somewhere that will let me keep them.

    and (b) trying to figure out what to do about a rear spring.  If I could find a roto-spring here in Aus, the next problem will be that the diff housing is only a 4 bolt hole job, and the roto spring needs 6.  Do I ship out a spring and diff housing from old Bilighty, or do I try to work the swing spring itself with the roto/CV hubs.

    Any thoughts appreciated!

    C.

    Camshaft bore in block

    in Engine

    Posted

    From my notes as provided by Kai at WBC

    Quote:

    Cam bearing bore size is 1.969" +/- 0.0005".  Again, safe thing to do is
    have the components in hand and work backwards to the ideal size.  Cam
    journal diameter + bearing clearance + (2 * bearing shell thickness) =
    ideal cam bearing bore size


    Good luck,

    C.

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