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GT6MK3

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Everything posted by GT6MK3

  1. John they also turn over at a much better speed, so the rrrrrrrrr,  rrrrrrrrrr,  rrrrrrrrrrr, rr rr r r r    r       r...   of the old starter nf a recalcitrent motor tends to become rr, rr, rr, rR ROAR!, quite a bit faster. C.
  2. Can't you re wire it to use the original solenoid?  That's what my hi torque does to avoid that. http://www.britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html C.
  3. Close the garage door, rev hard, and see if it gets richer.   With long usb lead from outside the garage of course... Sometimes the trials and tribs of ever so slowly learning how to build stuff myself seem worth it.  I hope he welds that one in for you for nix. I've got an uninstalled CC sport alloy pump here on the shelf if you want it for your investigations Cars looking gorgeous,   Hope I get to see it. C.
  4. Looking great Nick! How did the exy pipe lengths end up? Looking forward to YouTube time! C.
  5. Looking really nice Nick. Are you going to recess the cups into the rail? C.
  6. I'm going to leave the dispariging remarks regarding my Gilligan like wiring well alone.   I am however looking forward to how you'll package and mount your air filter 😉 But I digress. Having looked hard at ITB, I have a plan to do it one day.  I reckon you've got some fun bits to look at.  Regarding Map, I think you need to consider hose length. The folks at EFI hardware have this https://www.efihardware.com/pr.....al-length-connection
  7. I was trying to work out how this went so long with no comments. Then I realized that we're all awestruck. Noice! C
  8. Cheers Nick. Full build story with pics here http://tinyurl.com/gt6manifold. BiTurbo, you can go with 215mm from memory, flange to trumpet. C.
  9. I'll be at EFI hardware (again!) in the morning.  Long story... Packaging is king under a GT6 bonnet. I seriously looked at running the injectors on the curve, but everyting I could find said having them that far out would cause low idle problems, and hesitation on hard accelleration.  Great position if the engine is always running hard like a race engine, but not so much for driving in traffic.  There was also a suggestion that on small runners like ours wall wetting becomes more of an issue than on big intakes like mustangs etc. Pretty sure I've found a way to package horizontal runners off the head with the injectors spraying into the valve, and dash 6 RMR fuel rail with an end fitting at the tight end.  Tight as hell, but doable. Best thing I did was give up on using the long series injectors.  There's a couple of really good options in short series EV6's.  I'm currently working with 0280156080.  These come out of 3.2 litre Vectras, and they're pretty much interchangeable with the 0280155777 spec wise, just 11mm shorter. (these both flow about 7% less then the 0280155712 that are in the smaller vectra 6).  $24 the set at a "You pull it" wreckers, plus $12 for a can of TB cleaner, and $10 for a rebuild kit. The nice thing with these is they take the standard Bosch JT style connector, not the USCAR type that needs lots of space. BTW, if anyone is looking for injectors with a lower flow for lower HP engines, have a look at the 0280155731.  These are the same shorter EV6 size, but flow about half as much.
  10. Nick, Which variant of spring are you using on the spity? C.
  11. Noice! Looking forward to seeing the intake side of your plans! How long did you go with the 2ndaries? C.
  12. Built one myself for about 20 bucks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCd8kYI3HyY
  13. I need to source a couple of new roto springs for my GT6 and 6fire conversions, suspect shipping is gonna be a killer.  Can you shoot me the details of this one please?  Much rather have an uprated one early. Craig
  14. 2 questions for the wise if I may... Can anyonr tell me the circumference of the GT6 clutch plate, and (more importantly) is there Triumph equlivalant that has 20 or 22 splines? Ta C.
  15. 5161 wrote:Any one pop up a simple diagram of how this would work? would be a massive help to the novice such as myself.  :)
  16. Really? A fan with no relay - almost no work, almost guaranteed to fry old wiring eventually. A fan with one relay and a switch vs a fan with two relays and no switch.  about the same amount of work. If something goes wrong... a fan with one relay and a switch vs a fan with two and a switch, in case "A" you have to notice the problem and mechanically resolve it, but in case "B" it's resolved for you. I prefer doing a very little bit more work to end up with something a lot more failsafe. YMMV. C.
  17. I'd suggest using a normally closed double relay system, so that if your switch fails, the fans will stay on rather than off. Something like this
  18. I've decided to go from swing spring to roto, albeit with the Nick Jones CV conversion kit. the axles, CV kit and uprights are all sitting in the garage on the shelf. Apart from general inertia, the thing currently holding me up is (a) trying to figure a way to keep the Koni's from my swing spring set-up,  I'm hoping I can find a bracket somewhere that will let me keep them. and (b) trying to figure out what to do about a rear spring.  If I could find a roto-spring here in Aus, the next problem will be that the diff housing is only a 4 bolt hole job, and the roto spring needs 6.  Do I ship out a spring and diff housing from old Bilighty, or do I try to work the swing spring itself with the roto/CV hubs. Any thoughts appreciated! C.
  19. I've got a spare set of rods here if you need em.
  20. Nick Have you run that number through here? http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html I'm certain you'll need to angle them down.  Pretty sure I know who can help there... C.
  21. From my notes as provided by Kai at WBC Quote: Cam bearing bore size is 1.969" +/- 0.0005".  Again, safe thing to do is have the components in hand and work backwards to the ideal size.  Cam journal diameter + bearing clearance + (2 * bearing shell thickness) = ideal cam bearing bore size Good luck, C.
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