tomtrumpet
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looks like it may be a new shaft then The trunnion will only end up in the right position if it is fitted close enough to the end to enable the hub to push it to the correct position, if it does not contact the hub it cannot be pulled up by the nut and will require knocking up to the hub.......the question is which way is best?
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Certainly on the edge. Like a fool I put a new UJ on before checking. If I get a new shaft I wonder if I could carefully remove the UJ and put it on the new shaft without damaging it?
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Trunnions are off! I'm going to attempt to attach some pics of one of the half shaft as it has some marks where the needle bearing runs, i Think it's servicable but would just like to run past you fellas. the play in one of the trunnions appears to be slight bearing wear but oddly in the other the ball bearing is loose in the trunnion! I'm wondering if someone has fitted the wrong bear or the trunnion has somehow worn? very strange!
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Ok I'll give knocking it out a go. Yes it has occurred to me there is no positive location point for the trunnions, my factory manual gives a dimension measured from the end of the shaft to the bearing face of 2.625" which must be wrong as that would not allow the hub to even fit! Looking again at the manual cross sectional drawing the front face of the hub is in contact with the inner bearing race so I'm thinking lightly locate the, knock the trunnions up to the face of the hub and then torque up the nut? All in all odd design as the only thing that keeps the run ion in place on the shaft is friction from the ball race!!! Must work though.
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Oh I forgot to ask in my last post if anyone had any advice of how to get the trunnions off the shaft, my triumph factory is manual is missing that page! My circa 1965 Haynes manual suggests some how pushing the trunnions further onto the shaft so a puller can be placed on the bearing? Don't quite understand that? My thought its to put a puller on the trunnions and pull it off bearings and all? Thanks Tom.
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Public thanks to rally spit! I went to his house yesterday and we battled fo well over an hour to free the hubs. One came off in seconds but the other was a real pig. The method that got it in the end was to heat the hub with the puller off as it acts as a big heat sink! And then use a air driven wrench rattle it and then a punch placed through the hand brake hole in the back plate with a couple of whacks off it came. Again many thanks rally. Will report back on shaft condition later today!
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Still not got the hubs off, can't get in touch with kd, they seem quite elusive. I may take you up on your offer rally Spit! In the mean time I have compiled quite a list of parts I need and I was wondering if anyone had any advice on good suppliers? Back 5/6 years ago when I had my spit i used trgb, rimmers, Canley classics and chic doig. Service from all 3 was fine but with varying price differences, rimmers being pricey. As long as I get good quality parts for reasonable cost and knowledgable staff I'm happy. Anyone any advice?
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Cheers for the help chaps and thanks for the offer Mike that's very kind of you. I've been in touch with kd triumph, Karl said he'd remove the hubs for me and I'll also be able to buy any bits I need once I'm there aswell. Glad the bearings a easy once the hub is off, I'm presuming it's the ball bearing that controls end play so that's where the wear in mine must be.
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Once the hub is off is bearing replacement fairly straightforward? I've done most jobs on this car but never been in the rear hubs!
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Cheers chaps, Coventry is not too far so I may tootle up there. Half shaft is not noisey but there is end float ie. The bearing carrier moves along the shaft about 1mm but not at 90deg to the shaft so hopefully the shaft is ok?
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Hello, I,m in the process of rebuilding the rear hubs on my 66 1200 Herald. I've tried everything at my disposal to pull the rear hubs without damaging either the hub flange or the half shafts, I have tried a very high quality Sykes hydraulic puller a slide hammer and adapted my old mini flywheel puller, non have been successful. My choices now are to buy a specific puller, or take them to a specialist. Could anyone recommend a cost effective puller or point me in the direction of a specialist in the Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire area that could pull these damn things off!!!!
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cheers for that info Clive. can your friend give an idea of how much play is ok, my gut feeling is that the diff is fine but if it requires attention i'd rather it was now whilst i have it out and apart. I have a low mileage diff from a 13/60 which has less play between the crown wheel and pinion, sadly it has sat around for about 15yrs and the surfaces that were in contact with the seals on the two output shafts are corroded and would just eat the seals up in no time. I thought i might be able to put my output shafts in it but they are smaller, it looks like Triumph beefed up the diff for the 13/60. moral of the story......slap some grease on these surfaces if putting into storage!!!!
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Hello, this is my first post. After selling my 78 spitfire nine years ago ( birth of my first child ) I am now the proud owner of a 1965 1200 convertable. I bought it knowing it needed work including some welding to the chassis around the diff area. The diff was leaking oil from all three seals so out it came which made it easier to weld the chassis as well. The chassis is welded so before I turn my mig gun to the rear tub (bored of welding for now!!!!!) I've opened the diff up and the gears look in good condition, no scores, chips etc, all the bearing feel smooth and free from play. The only thing I wanted to check with you was how much play is ok between the pinion and the crown gear? my pinion maybe moves 2 or 3 degrees of rotation back lash. I'm not fussed if it is out of factory spec I just want to know if a little slop is ok, I know they are a pig to set up requiring special tools and knowledge, I also know a lot of old machinery will run perfectly happily even if it out of spec.