Ken Young
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Thanks. As far as I know it's the original which I think makes it a Delco.
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Hi all, I had a nightmare taking my GT6 to the MOT this year after getting her out of winter hibernation. Changed the points and condenser as part of a service and ended up breaking down close to home because they were rubbish. Eventually ran back home to get the old ones and re-fitted them to get me home. Can anyone recommend a good source of quality points please. Ta Ken
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You don't need to trim the seal around the quarter light other than cutting it to length. It is certainly a VERY tight fit though. I used a large flat-headed screwdriver and rubber mallet to ease the strip in the gap which worked fine. It's actually good that it is so tight because the seal needs to deform around the vertical posts in this area do it needs to be firmly held. I got my strip from Rimmers. Attaching the clips........? Now that almost broke my heart.
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You don't need to trim the seal around the quarter light other than cutting it to length. It is certainly a VERY tight fit though. I used a large flat-headed screwdriver and rubber mallet to ease the strip in the gap which worked fine. It's actually good that it is so tight because the seal needs to deform around the vertical posts in this area do it needs to be firmly held. I got my strip from Rimmers. Attaching the clips........? Now that almost broke my heart.
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When I select overdrive in my GT6 under engine load, it can take up to 2 or 3 seconds before it engages. When it does go, in it happens immediately. At lower load or speed, it pops in almost straight away. Is this normal or is it a sign of something wearing out? Thanks. Ken
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Pinking can also be caused when there is a hole in the head gasket between two cylinders. This also causes back flow to the carbs and obviously low performance. The pinking sound is the push rods bearings breaking through the oil seal and causing metal to metal contact with the crankshaft like a hammer. This is BAD. Unless you want a far bigger engine rebuild in the future, I recommend you recondition the head as above and whilst you are at it do the same with the carburettors. Don't drive far with the pinking sound! Ken
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Hello All, I hope I have one last question on this thread. I now have the engine rebuilt and have started her up for the first time. So far, so good - sounding nice and smooth and all cylinders firing. After she ran for a few minutes, I turned her off to have an inspection. Looking into the oil filling hole in the rocker cover, I am a bit concerned that there doesn't seem to be a huge amount of oil swilling around. I can see a trickle at the bottom but not a lot. Is this normal? How much oil would I expect to see in there after running at 800rpm for a few minutes. I might be being too cautious, but I would rather be safe than sorry. Ken
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I took advice from Jigsaw racing who advised no washers with flanged nuts. Also no lubrication....... I bet there will be 20 different opinions on this!!!!!
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I am now ready to do a rebuild after having invested in some new high strength flanged nuts and a Payen gssket from jigsaw racing. Some detailed questions. 1) When I rebuild, do I do all the nuts up reasonably tight before torquing up or should I just leave them finger tight. 2) should I apply copper slip to the threads or just engine oil? 3) with flanged nuts, should I still use washers? Thanks. Ken
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Thanks for the advice John. There is nothing obviously wrong with the sealing faces on the block or the head. I have cleaned them up and they seem good and flat with no dents or dings. The only thing I can think of is that the bolts loosened over time due to creep. The head nuts located under the manifold were certainly a bit looser than I would have expected. Is there any check that I can try in the garage that doesn't involve specialist equipment. Also are there any other known problems that may have caused this that I can check. Note also, the fitting of the stainless coolant feed pipe that goes under the manifold was fairly badly blocked with rusty shite. That may have restricted cooling, although I think this is not for the head but for the air manifold and heater matrix.
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I am just about to order a replacement head gasket and am slightly bewildered by the alternatives on offer. I don't want to fit a crappy one accidentally. Can anyone recommend a good supplier / make. Thanks Ken
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Good old Haynes. Anyway, I think I found the problem. Quite relieved it's not the rings or valves.
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Thanks nick. I'll get back to work.
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Here is the photo
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I need a bit of help and advice please. I've got a poor compression on one of the cylinders on my GT6 mk1. I am taking the head off and following the instructions in Haynes. It specifically says to leave the manifolds in place during removal. However, as far as I can see, this prevents access to the head fixing bolts. Am I missing something here. I've added a photo on case it helps. Thanks. Ken