HMaze
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Posts posted by HMaze
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Maybee Mk1-3, where the indicators and side lights are part of the bonnet?
Harry -
Rotation of the distributor finger is ccw (Counter clock wise).
So turning the distributor body clock wise advances the timing,
turning counter clock wise retards the timing.
Cheers,
Harry -
get the right relais, and you don't have to cut into your wiring loom.
Look into your second thread under Herald...
Cheers,
Harry -
Two separate lines to the front. Right side of the radiator braket, then down to the street.
If they overflow, the fuel won't get on the exhaust manifold.
Cheers,
Harry -
Hi John,
that's definitly NOT lightweight!
heavy cast, same on the late Mk3 Spitfire!
Cheers,
Harry -
1-3-4-2
Cheers,
Harry -
From top to bottom:
159761 horn push (Triumph)
alt. 150277 horn push (Triumph shield)
142534 horn top spring connector (Pencil)
608462 horn slip ring with wire (The wire is a single wire, not part of the wiring loom)
The taps that hold down the ring in the steering column are often broken, so you may have to glue or rivet it back in.
130581 earth strap column joint
Cheers,
Harry -
Hi Andy,
your original relais had 3 connections:
B (Batterie throgh ignition key) with 2 white (W) wires - current from the batterie
P (Pilotlight?) with a lightgreen-purple (LG/P) wire - to the control light on the dashboard
L (Lights) with a lightgreen-brown (LG/N) wire - to the indicator stalk
There was no earth connection needed!!!
To replace this with a modern (BOSCH) relais you need one with 4 connections!:
49 (Batterie through ignition key) with the 2 white (W) wires
C (Control light) with the lightgreen-purple (LG/P) wire
49a (Lights) with a lightgreen-brown (LG/N) wire
and 31 (Ground) with a black (B) wire.
It looks like, you got a relais with only 3 connections, so it is missing the C connector for the control light!
LG/P and LG/N are sometimes difficult to distinguish!
cheers,
Harry -
Check if the cable from the Solenoid to the starter is the ONLY! cable at this pole on the Solenoid!
I have seen different configurations for the additional brown cables (wiring harness) on the solenoid.
Sometimes they are on the top pole and sometimes they are on the bottom pole.
cheers,
Harry -
Check if the cable from the Solenoid to the starter is the ONLY! cable at this pole on the Solenoid!
I have seen different configurations for the additional brown cables (wiring harness) on the solenoid.
Sometimes they are on the top pole and sometimes they are on the bottom pole.
cheers,
Harry -
It's in the Workshop Manual for Laycock "A" and "D" Type Overdrives, Appendix A.
cheers,
Harry -
Serial No. 22/3009 is listed for an Austin Healey 3000, 470-490 PSI
Cheers,
Harry -
Maybee it's some kind of ingenius early type of "accusump"?
Cheers,
Harry -
Hi Velocita Rosso,
you are partly right on the diffs. The early 4,11:1 had different quater shafts. So no swap there.
On the swing spring: the early mkIV had swing spring and short shafts. So no need for longer shafts on Mk3.
Cheers Harry -
W1 = 85
W2 = 86
C1 = 30
C2 = 87
normally open relais!
Cheers,
Harry -
7513 wrote:Thanks for your help still no joy. To recap engine timing seems OK at 8/10 degrees before BTDC distributor rotor on cylinder one big fat spark at plugs. Will fire up on easy start OK.
Fuel/floats set to give correct fuel height.
SU carbs have ADN needles Haynes says they should be ABT, what do you think?
i notice the jet sleeve/ bearing is 1.5 mils low of choke bridge, is this bad?
i have progressively retaken jet down two flats at a time to the recommended two full turns but still no joy. still fires up easy start.
Any more ideas?
Thanks
If those are the late HS4 with the ballbearing dashpots ADN is the right needle for standard setup.
Look for example on burlen.co.uk.
The jet bearing is shorter than on the earlier carbs, to help on emission at idle.
Cheers,
Harry
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Not a photo but:
http://www.triumph-spitfire.de/spitfire_infos/electric/Armaturenbrettanschl%FCsse.gif
Cheers, Harry -
maybee this will help:
It shows the 3 different wiper wiring diagrams for the spitfire/Gt6...
Last wiring diagram shows the addition for the electrical washer pump.
Cheers, Harry
Wiring for Oil Warning Light
in Electrical
Posted
Hi Danny,
check if the bulb of the "BRAKE" warning light is OK.
And check if the PDWA is not actuated.
The wiring of the oil pressure warning light is connected with the brake warning light.
Not a very clever solution from Lucas, but nessesary for the US market, to check the PDWA circuit.
Harry