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molten

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Posts posted by molten

  1. peterhlewis wrote:


      guess the problem was due to being unsed for too many years then being forced into life,

        


    Wondering if this is the problem with mine. Not been used for year or two but was rebuilt. Everything looks clean but just wondering if imperial o-rings were used on rebuild. Might just change them and see if it makes any difference.

  2. Very interested as I have exactly the same problem on my refurbished box.
    . Did the strip & clean sort the problem?
    Or was the problem with the O rings?

    I can hear the solenoid working on mine wondered if it was not quite operating far enough.
    I understand that the solenoid activates the o/d under oil pressure so should have correct pressure as oil is at max.
    Maybe the o-rings are a tad to small perhaps.

    Interested to lnow how you get yours fixed as mine will likely be same.

    Thanks
    Scott

  3. 2009 wrote:
    Hi

    A common problem with the J type if it's been stood a while is the plunger sticks so although you can hear the solenoid it's not throwing the plunger so see if this is free first.

    Cheers

    Jerry

    Noticed a couple of copper washers on solenoid. To remove solenoid the to check above, do i have to drop gbox oil?
    Thanks

  4. Hello
    Another niggle that some of you fella's may be able to advise on hopefully.

    A few months back I bought a rebuilt gearbox complete with j type od of a guy on ebay.
    Box looks like it has indeed been rebuilt so no doubts there.
    Eventually got round to fitting the box. However, although there is good operation of the od solenoid from the switch, the od does not seem to be working.
    I have heard that some od struggle when oil in box is cold but have my doubts about this.
    Any advice gents?

    Thanks
    Scott

  5. Got new bell housing centre and seal and they look right. My bell housing is the early 1500 without the 3compression springs recesseses that later 1500 bell housing have. Considering that i am fitting a later j- type, will this give me any probs if i juat fit minus the 3 compression springs between gearbox and bell housing?

    Thanks

  6. Just bought a rebuilt j type overdrive on single rail box.
    Had to takebell housing off previous single rail box but bell housing oil seal wont go over input shaft as its base diameter is bigger than the no overdrive input shaft!!

    Is there another bell housing oil seal that has larger internal diameter?

    Thanks

  7. JohnD wrote:
    molten,
    "the less than level surface of the sump sealing face"

    Yes John the 'sump' sealing face not the block sealing face

    Will dolly the sump sealing face as suggested.
    Thanks.

  8. Will use a bit of petrol to wipe surfaces but engine in situ so will have to apply seal to sump only.

    Cheers markus.

    On another matter, I have two single rail gear lever with overdrive switch.
    One is shorter than other and think one of them ia from a dolomite.
    Which one is likely to be rhe spitfire one. Any ideas?

  9. Not had much jots with paper gaskets. Would some modern silcone rubber gasket seal be ok without paper gasket due to the less than level surface of the sump sealing face?
    What think you?

  10. Whilst my gearbox is out the car for a rebuild, I am considering fixing that oil leak at the base of the back plate that I have.

    Obviously, I will need to un-mount the engine and reove the back plate but is it possible to do this without having to lift the engine out of the car completely?

    Hope some ingenious individual has done this succeasfully??
    Thanks
    Scott

  11. Whilst my gearbox is out the car for a rebuild, I am considering fixing that oil leak at the base of the back plate that I have.

    Obviously, I will need to un-mount the engine and reove the back plate but is it possible to do this without having to lift the engine out of the car completely?

    Hope some ingenious individual has done this succeasfully??
    Thanks
    Scott

  12. Nick_Jones wrote:
    18mm tip mainshaft used the same gears.  The bore inside the input shaft for the pilot bearing needs to be increased though.

    Nick


    Thts tru nick.
    Will collect a complet d-type box tomorow and check ovr wih  view to bolt on and go.

    Filing that, will speak to dave at canleys nd see if he can do deal on hd mainshaft and rebuild kit.

    Cheers nick

  13. Slimboyfat wrote:


    I think you must have been quoted x2 on that, it should be more like;

    http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=tkc923hd


    Well spotted. Looks like I was looking at the one on Rimmers site!!

    That one from canleys was the one iwas intending to buy aswell!!

    Plus another £100 for the rebuild kit from Paddocks.

    Thanks

    Scott

  14. peterhlewis wrote:
    OD mainshaft is tkc923,   unless you upgrade to a mainshaft 18mm spigot this typical failure will return again in the future

    bear in mind this design started with the standard eight and it the weak point .

    Mike Paporth can supply mainshaft and stem gears with the big spigot

    Pete


    Hi Pete

    Thanks for the info mate.

    Gears look ok. Do stem gears require replacing to accomodate the bigger 18mm dia of HD mainshaft?

    I am selling this car and just dont want to sell with any problems hence the possible rebuild. As such I dont want to go to the added expense of a heavy duty mainshaft at £200 a pop plus £100 for rebuild kit!

    A standard rebuild (original part mainshaft) will be sufficient unless I find a suitable alternative box.

    Cheers matey

    But if I was keeping, I would def use HD mainshaft with 18mm

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