molten

Hi All

I rebuilt the engine with all new parts and it has in the last week developed a 'knock' as it first cranck up. Only last a second until oil is pumped round then is ok.


Got oil cooler on too but oil level is ok.

Any idea what it can be?

Whohoooooo. Passed MOT :)

Sounds great down the streets. First time on road in ten years.

Noticed a few anoying problems though. The untested d-type box works but seems a bit loud so may want strip and service! Just as well as there is an oil leak on the back plate so g/box will need to come off again to sort that. Will prob leave that for winter project or put original box back in!! DAMB!

Other thing is that brake mater cylinder seems to be leaking too despite new seals!
But its great to drive (heavy on the steering :-))and a milestone. 3 yrs in the restoration and loved every minute of it. Might drive it to tatton classic show tomorrow  :)

Hi Wim

I had recently changed my wheel studs only to find out that i did not have to if I had bought the right wheel nuts. To explain:

I have set of slot alloys.
When i fitted them it seemed that I did not have enough thread length left on the original stud for the new 3/8 wheel nuts (similar to - http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1361-1/2-UNF--Taper-Chrome-Wheel-Nut.html) to bite.

Not only was there not enough thread on the stud, the new nuts did not centralise the wheel properly. So I chanched the studs all round to M12 x 1.5mm which were land rover Bearmack studs.

I sent photos of the wheels to midland wheels and they confirmed that I didnt in fact need to change the studs as the wheel nuts I had were the wrong type. :-/ They confirmed that I really only needed 3/8 sleeved nuts (http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1344-12x1.5mm---11/16-Dia.-Sleeve-Nut.html with chamfered washer for my wheels. These nuts would slot through the hole centre when tightened thereby giving much more thread for the nut to torque on.

As I had by then changed to the land rover studs, I had to order the ones above instead.
When I went to fit them, the new studs turned out to be too long so I had to cut about 4mm of the ends ov every stud >:( especially on the rears.

Suffice to say that I now have 12mm studs all round with the correct nuts for my wheels.

So what I am trying to say is, would the correct sized sleeved nuts solve the stud length issue for you as I would have done me. If so a set of 3/8 sleeve nuts may be the answer but I am not familiar with the wheel nut hooles on your Rev wheels so cannot say for certain.

As said by others, spacers should sort your other wheel issue.

Preparing for MOT on Saturday.

All seem to be working fine although a littlr rough running until car has warmed up (carbs not equally ballanced and jetted properly yet).

Received new period number plates this morning so only got saturday morning to put them on.

If all goes well I will be driving it to Tatton Park classic car show on sunday  :) :)
First time its seen a road in 15 years..

I used DOT5 silicone in mine only because its a new system and it wont blister the paint on the bulkhead when the master cylinder inevitablt leaks ;D

the wood on the wheel had a nuber of black stains in it, so I put the wire wool to work to remove them (to a degree) and dont want to ruin the thing hen applying laquer/varnish etc.

Any of you fella's ever recoated the wood on steering wheel?

What is best to use? I am pressuming Tina of varnish and paint brush is out  ;)

Any suggestions as to what to use for lasting durable finish?

Thanks spider. Let me know how you get on coz this is really anoying...more so for neighbours  :)

Hi
Just ned a little electrical know-how.

Motolita steering wheel boss activated horn when the boss touches the horn ring :-/

Anyone know what i have done wrong?

The earth strap on the knuckle is connected from one side over to the other. I have not put an earth strap from the steering rack to the chassis. Is that my problem?

Thanks fella's

scott

Well filled up new brake lines with dot5 fluid today and the clutch.
piped up the fuel tank and poured some fuel in the tank. Clutch worked fine and I actualy drove the car (albeit only a few yards)
forward and reverse. Great feeling.

Noticed a little oil puddle from the bottom of the rear engine plate :(

Dont want to have to pull the gearbox off to tighten the plate bolts (hoping gasket not need replacing). Obviously this only occured during the last couple days when engine began running (under pressure). Is it likely that the plate bolts would need further tightening of more the gasket failure or anything else?
Great to have the car running but dont like to see it 'bleeding'  :(

There is a place that does mini's in burnley but was hoping someone could recommend something a bit closer to WA3.

wILL KEEP GOOGLING.

Just wanted to find a place than new how to tune HS4 carbs so they are not charging me whilst they learn about the carb!!

Hello all.

First, want to say thanks to Gt6Craig who helped ballancing carbs yesterday.

Car is running well enough to get to a rolling road soon.
Anyone know a good station near warrington/wigan area that knows the HS4 carbs well?

Thanks
scott

Sorted. Big thanks gents. No longer glowing.  :)
Noticed that the throttle return spring is missing too and the throttle not returning quickly enough.

Any tips for ballancing carbs?

Thanks johnd.
mikeyb- where is the damned fuel mixture screw??

SPITTING FIRE INDEED!!!

Car has stainless 4-2-1 manifolds that are heat-wrapped. I was almost frightened to death when I noticed the manifolds literally glowing bright red all way to single pipe. The heat wrap was also glowing bright red!!

Is this normal?
Despatately need someone in the know to reply here ASAP please.

Thanks
scott