Falkon

This is a cover to access the clutch slave, but same idea.

I'd guess more likely air in the system, than a failure of the servo. You said it takes several pumps to firm the pedal. Usually a bad brake servo (vacuum type) is a REALLY hard pedal that barely moves and poor brakes. Pumping compresses the air.

Steering wheel puller?

Check for a broken Small Brown/Yellow wire.

Another view.

Everything is fused. Except the line to the alternator. LHD car.

All kind of wiring diagrams.

http://www.spitfiremk2.co.uk/

Is this a US spec car? That red wire in the bonnet loom would be for the side lamps on the bonnet's fenders.

Is this a US spec car? That red wire in the bonnet loom would be for the side lamps on the bonnet's fenders.

The original tires that came on my new '73 from the factory were 155x13. That was a US car though.

Power to the motor is always hot. The switch is a grounding unit. Here's a '73 RHD.

http://www.spitfiremk2.co.uk/mk4rh73.html

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Set the static timing, if the car isn't running to about 8 deg BTDC. Put the groove in the pulley at the 8 BTDC mark. Your rotor should point at #1. Turn the distributer til the points just open.

For more tuning, I start the car and warm it up. Then turn the dist. til it runs best. Reset the idle. Take it for a drive. If it pings on accel, turn it back a bit. Done this for years on many cars.

Here this thread explains it after you wade through it. You're going from a 5 wire to a 3 wire.  
http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,734714,734714#msg-734714re.

Here's the PDWA.

Here's a US LHD car from 1971. The rear of the master is for the rear brakes and front of the master for the front. Both lines just pass through the PDWA valve. Probably doesn't matter which is on which side. Mine is factory original. You can use round o-rings to repair a PDWA w/ original square washers. there's a writeup somewhere.

Is this by any chance a dual braking system like on US cars. If so the clicking would be the PDWA valve, and it could block off the fluid from the side w/ air in it. It needds to be centralized to bleed properly. It's a big pain.

Look at post #16 ... Picture of a trans w/ overdrive and reverse switches. Might be a seatbelt sw too. Not sure if UK cars had them.


http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,725068,725068#msg-725068

Overdrive wiring diagrams

http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/overdrivewiring.pdf

http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html

What are you using for hydraulic lines? It looks like copper, yet I'm told I shouldn't use that, and use steel.