rog1300

Cheers Clive, AngClassics replied the 3 rail repair kit parts won't fit and suggested a whole replacement gear lever as well. I'll have to see how hard it is to disassemble the lever to get it off and 3D print a replacement maybe. Who knows..

Hi peeps. (Spit Mk4 but 1500 single rail gearbox possibly!)Took advantage of lack of rain today and drove to Hove and back from Eastbourne. Fabulous drive but 3 miles from home shifting seemed like pushing through treacle. Got home and discovered this plastic part had split and jumped up out of the securing metal cover. Don't seem to see any replacements online nor obvious ways of removing old one at first look either! Any advice? Thank you. Rog.

Thanks Wendy - bought this and it fits perfectly! G'box back in place again. Now refurbishing the clutch master cylinder... it goes on! :) Rog.

Well the lovely Clare at Canley has sent me the new clutch plate'll (friction disk) but alas! The clutch plate is 7/8ths of friction material and cover unit has 1 and 1/8th inch of 'disc'. Both are 6.5" across. So the inner diameter of the cover plate is less than the inner part of the friction disc - so it can't fit flush to the surface of the plate's disc. I'll have to check the Marina part and that Laycock part now.. hope that inner disc isn't too 'wide' !

yep - given it a good wash down with brake cleaner. :)

ok - so: keeping my existing clutch plate as it is pretty clean and is not really worn, but changing the cover plate via the helpful souls at Canley classics for a GCC197. Fingers crossed all should be good soon!

Herald cover - I shall make enquiries. Thank you.

The plate seems good actually - but as the rear crank oil seal went it has suffered some oil contamination. The cover unit is the bit giving me a sourcing problem at mo.. although it seems ebay may be the next place to search.

oh dear expensive! how about a flywheel change?

My Mk4 has a 20 spline input shaft from J type overdrive g'box. I ordered a mk4 clutch - but this had 10 splines in clutch plate. I sent it back and was sent a 1500 clutch with 20 splines. That's lovely but it's too big and the clutch cover location holes don't match the flywheel. Can't see any links to a 20 spline 6.5" clutch plate - apart from one reference stating "you can't get these anymore". Erm... any ideas? Top part is current - below one in image is new 1500 clutch. There is an offset of the securing pin hole to flywheel - it's not centered between the securing bolts. Cheers peeps! Rog.

Rear end is sorted but seems the back of the engine was letting out oil at an ever increasing rate, along with sump gasket pretty wet, thought I would check the rear crank seal and sump seal. So with gearbox out and sump off I find the compression spring for the crank seal sitting in the bottom of the sump!! Oil pick up filter gunged up too. All cleaned up now. New gaskets fitted and back on car. New clutch ordered and release bearing arm parts just arrived for replacement: slave cyl push rod and lever pin and pivot pin etc as all badly worn and causing slop. and it's raining again. Smile and wave boys, smile and wave.

I'll let you know once I get the carbs cleaned!! Just hope my fuel tank isn't full of the same rubbish now! Hoping the E5 fuel isn't too hydrophilic!

Coil tested good! 3ohm gold Lucas unit. 2.9ohms on volt meter - minus the 0.2ohm on meter with contacts closed. Ign on and batt V at 12.7 at +ve coil terminal/ 11.6V with -ve term earthed temporarily. Started chekcing the sparky parts as I'd just done the dash/ignition re-wiring so obvs thought that's where the prob is. However, next obvs thought was it sounds like a fuel problem. Opened float chamber - eugh - full of muck at bottom: crystalline crud - is this ethanol/water related corrosion? Car has been sitting for a few months to be fair! Still, one float chamber removed and cleaned up. 2nd to do, then I can test this part out...!

Well finally got round to sorting my Mk4 1300 rear end whine. Hadn't done a U/J in over 25 years but did both drive shafts. As expected, no change, but it's a tick in the box of jobs to do. Took a punt on an ebay "gold" (hmm) differential. Asked questions etc and seemed a better bet to spend £250 rather than the initial £1k outlay for a fully recon one. Having removed the rear leaf spring I ended up ordering a new one of those too! So all installed now with loads of new bolts and exhaust downpipe to manifold gasket. (hadn't expected that one on the list to begin with). Fun job on your own! Have also installed dashboard ignition switch with push start and moved lights and fuel pump to switched control in Dash with relays. All looking and working great. First trip out last night proved there is a coil voltage solution to be found now as she starts on the button but conks out after a few yards - no power at all. Ho Hum... more thinking to be done. Hope everyone is good and getting their pride and joys out in the sunshine. I'll be there too again soon I hope.

Hi guys an gals, Anyone recommend a good oil pressure gauge kit for my Mk4 Spitfire ? Don't want to risk mechanical pipe up to dash and I know Rimmers do a kit for £125 or thereabouts - as usual hoping to get away with a bit less expenditure. 52mm hole awaiting to be filled .... :) Regards to all. Rog.

i will be checking again after next run out on Saturday. At least there is a qtr turn available with the two holes in the stub ax. The play I had was more like 3mm+ of noticeable movement. Still, i'll keep a close eye on..thanks.

Thanks Clive, I did consider that. I guess I'll just have to see how it goes and monitor it closely.

Cheers - I will try be there for the next one. Thank you.

hi - everything is rock solid - I did think it couldn't be wheel bearing with just a 12 & 6 rock but it does seem so. I only turned the castle nut one flat at a time back from a medium firm hand tight position til there was no rocking of wheel - i.e one more flat of undoing resulted in rocking.. this seemed best to me. time will tell :)

Hi Rob. whole car is pretty good thank you :) the whine is kinda just there from 35mph - only managed 50mph so far - felt like 100! :) coming off throttle makes no difference - so pretty continuous I'd say but far less noticeable under 35.

Not for the purist I know, but I like them.

Only had my 73 MkIV since August. Had a whine from rear from 35mph and a 'rocking' of front wheels but only in 12 & 6 o'clock positions. I've changed front wheel bearings this last week and fronts seem just fine now. Old grease was like badly water contaminated engine oil - just horrible! I would trial her out to the club meet tonight but I've got to work. Not sure where to start with the rear whine though....bit by bit...

I believe it can make a difference depending on if you did the test with engine warm or cold too. I did mine cold recently and got 135,140,145 & 155psi on cyls 1-4. Be interesting to repeat that this weekend when she is warm.

Just acquired my Spitfire MkIV on Saturday. Beautiful running project. No handbrake - so took a look last night - mechanism had come off the small 'rail' that basically holds it in place. Minor bit of bending to re-align where main fulcrum pin goes through to correct the sitting angle of handbrake and all good. Big smiles as haven't had a Triumph for 30 years!