Tim Bancroft

Impressive work and an impressive car.

Thanks Colin, I forgot about the big grommet.

No need to cut an access hole.

Bruce, jack up the front of the car and place on axle stands. You may have to take off the exhaust section adjacent to the gearbox, there is a mount that the exhaust hangs off that is attached onto the gearbox, take this off. Undo the propshaft, swing the prop out of the way. Place a trolley jack under the rear gearbox mount to support the weight of the g'box, under the 4 nyloc nutsthat hold the gearbox subframe onto the bolts that hang off the through from the bodyshell, take off the rubber O rings and tubes remembering the order they fit. https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW3312 Undo the soft pad around the gearbox lever, take off the weird panel that fits around the gearlever including the rubber seal. Take of the gearlever, similar clamp to that used on small chassis gearboxes. Now using the trolley jack to control the drop, lower the gearbox back until you can get your hands up, you may be able to go through from the gearlever aperture in the car. Be careful when dropping the box downwards as you may find the cyl head hits the heater box, place a slim piece of board there to protect the heater box (This is a for mk1 , not so sure about a mk2). Also if an engine fan is fitted, watch that the fan does not cut into the radiator. Just take your time watching everything as you drop the back of the g'box. You should be able to see the inhibitors, if not use a mirror. J type wiring as you know is very simple, no relay is needed. Pain in the posterior job as one is on ones back under the car....

I used to own a Spitfire mk2. That car used to occasionally stop without warning, found that the coil retaining bracket was loose around the coil body and it was sliding backwards and therefore I was loosing connections. Schoolboy error!!!

Hi Peter, What type of work is needed? When do you want the work to be done? Regards,

Does he mean the soft top frame or the frame that reinforces the bonnet/hood?

Have a look at T D Fitchetts on ebay, they seem to be selling singular Stanpart original carpets, not sets. If they have Spitfire items, well worth it as quality will be good. If they have not got Spittie carpets for sale on ebay, call them as I understand they have lots of parts that they have not got around to cataloguing. By using single parts to replace defective carpet parts, you could save some money. Otherwise as Clive states, a good moulded set is well worth buying. I have never found repro carpet sets to be any good. Buy cheap, buy twice?

I have the Spitfire type of holder on my TR6 and have had to run extra earths, no problem now.

I have just attended a meeting with the Charity for the 2025 RBRR and the subject of JG came up. We have decided to go with a new collection service that has a similar basis to JG, but has pages that are easier to set up and link with an event and one that does not charge, all money collected will go to the Charity. I cannot name the RBRR 2025 Charity as yet as I want to do that within the CT Magazine, Club Torque, the announcement including this and the date of when the event will open for entries will be within the February edition of the magazine that will land on CT members door mats approximately 15th Jan. 2025.

I have fitted 7/16 UNF dia, 50mm long studs to me GT6, seemed a no brainer to me to upgrade to the slightly bigger diameter. Speed Shack in West Drayton supplied the studs and tube nuts, all is good! Speed Shack is a funny little shop, but the owner knows his stuff, very helpful. www.speedshack.co.uk

Don't 1300 and 1500 FWD cars have alot of inset, as FWD cars should? I am not aware of any company making steel wheels like that for FWD cars other tha n those for Minis. NOS...very difficult. Might be worth having a chat with T D Fitchitt, they may have some. What about getting your wheels blasted and stove enamelled? If alloy wheel are required, Revolution used to make 5 spoke RFX wheels that fit wpould be suitable. Yogi Gay has some on his 1300TC. Triumph Dolomite Club people may be able to help.

Good luck Dave and Jackie, a few other TRs on the event, so in good company.

Good luck Dave. I would love to take part in that event. How many regularity tests this time?

Hi Dave, H Frame bolted to the underside of the dash support and to the chassis through the floor pan.