Nige T

After fitting the Petronix ignition, the TR7 seems to be running reasonably well. It is fitted with the AC Delco distributor and I checked the static timing after fitting the EI. The Haynes manual states that static timing is okay for most practical purposes, whereas the Lucas distributor needs to be dynamically timed. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated

Hi Howard, Got around to testing last night. With the pods wound up to full height, when reconnecting the battery with the headlamp switch turned on, there was no movement. When the switch was turned off, the nearside pod dropped down to the fully closed position, however the offside pod remained in the fully raised position. It may be worth mentioning that the flasher stalk does feel quite loose and sloppy and prior to dousing it with contact spray, both pods raised and lowered when using the stalk. Not long after spraying, only the nearside pod would work off the stalk. Cheers, Nigel

Hi Howard, Thanks for sending the testing procedure. I have had bit of a problem logging in, hopefully this will get through. When following the procedure, I got the following results :- With the headlamp switch turned on, when reconnecting the battery the headlamps stayed in the slightly raised position, i.e. nothing happened! When the headlamps were switched to the off position, the nearside headlamp returned to the fully down position, however the offside headlamp went to the fully raised position and stayed there! Seems like I've opened a right can of worms here 🙂 Cheers, Nigel

Thanks Howard, no rush!

Hi Howard, I have followed your instructions and got 12 volt readings on both wires, both sides. I am guessing I will now need to look at the motors? Cheers, Nigel

Many thanks Howard, will report on progress!

The earthing points are good and both side and headlights work although the lights don't pop up! Cheers, Nigel

Thanks Howard. Electrics are not my strong point, but I'll give it a go! Cheers, Nigel

I'm getting around to the next fix on my TR7, the headlamps. When the light switch is turned on, the side / headlights come on, however the lights don't rise. Until recently, the lights would pop up and down when pulling the flasher stalk. Now, the offside light has stuck in the up position and the nearside light only will operate from the flasher stalk, albeit sporadically. I do hear the clicking from the glove box area every time I pull the flasher! So far, I have fitted a new light switch, cleaned all connections with electrical spray, checked the relays which all seem okay and greased the headlamp mechanisms. I can't for the life of me find the Pektron unit! I have tried to wind down the offside headlamp using the motor knob, but no go. Any suggestions on where else to look would be appreciated.

Okay, so I ended up getting the solid aluminium mounts from the Dolomite Club. They cost £102.00, which included £30.00 for the compulsory club membership 🤔. Must say, they are very nicely made and a perfect fit. I was a little concerned regarding what I had read about heat transfer and vibration so I made some gaskets from 1.5mm thick nitrile rubber to fit between the jointing plate and carburettor. Not sure whether this will stop much vibration but will hopefully reduce heat transfer.

Thought I would update on my electronic ignition, which I finally got around to fitting. I decided to go with the Petronix unit in the end as I had it fitted in a previous classic with no issues. Also, the Petronix unit for the TR7 uses the existing cam lobes, rather than having to fit a magnetic sleeve which would have meant dismantling the distributor. As I had read, the distributor bolts are a pig to get at, so I bent a ring spanner in the vice as attached photo which did the job and saved my knuckles. To get the bolts back in, I held them firm in the ring of the spanner with a very small piece of rag and then held the washer to the underside with a smear of heavy duty grease. A slow process, but got there in the end. As I was getting low voltage readings from the original ballast supply, I decided to bypass the ballast resistor and connect to the switched live white wire from the ignition as suggested, also fitting a new non ballast coil. So far, so good 😊. Nigel

Thanks both, I'll get on the phone!

Hi Beans, can I ask where you had them made and what they cost? Is that a thick rubber washer that comes with the alloy piece? Thanks, Nigel

Many thanks for your responses. Once I have purchased the electronic ignition, I have a feeling I will be back here asking more questions (car electrics are not my strong point)!! Would anyone have any recommendations regarding EI modules, the fit in distributor type? Nigel