BurArrow

Hi all, Dismantling to clean and service my B30 PSE1 carb, turns out the new fuel pump was over pressuring and causing a slight leak doh! I've been following the service manual for this carb and my one has subtle differences about where the strangler interconnect lever (20) attaches, mine is on the accelerator pump arm side but appears to function properly so probably isn't an issue. But most puzzling is the lack of the non-return ball valve (45) in the accelerator pump chamber, perhaps the previous owner lost it but I cant work out where it should sit if I was to get a new ball. I assume without a ball valve any pump actuation would push fuel back into the bowl and not out of the gooseneck, does anyone know where it should sit or if it is needed and what size ball I need? Canley classics doesn't seem to have a ball in the chamber: https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-1200&diagram=triumph-herald-1200-solex-carburettor-b30pse1-late Also found that I have a ball baring underneath the plunger of the anti siphon valve (58) which looks like is probably not meant to be there and could be the offending piece?

The new propshaft is in and I could take the car for a spin down to the pub and back! Engine is a little lumpy and just gets louder instead of pulling, so some tinkering to be had I'm sure 😄

Just a quick update here. The new custom propshaft arrived the other day, all balanced and ready to go from Dunning and Fairbank https://www.dandfltd.co.uk/ All installed without a problem, the sliding spline makes it so much easier! For reference for anyone interested after measuring lots they confirmed the flanges are SAE 1140 front and back.

Thought you all may be interested in my project, I've not worked on a car to this extent before so this will be a voyage of discovery! I've taken on a Burlington Arrow which in my case is based on mostly Herald parts, it is a runner but quite leaky from various points and needs a good overhaul. Work to date Service stuff, oil, filters, coolant including a complete flush of the radiator and new corrected rating thermostat. Front calipers rebuilt as they were totally seized. Rear drums rebuilt, weirdly full of grease on the braking surface no wonder it didn't have any stopping power! New tires and new 14" wire wheel to replace the 15" spare. Rebuilt and redesigned the dashboard in reclaimed Mahogany, including fitting a Tacho! Plumbed up the Oil pressure gauge. New fuel pump and fuel filter, replaced the perished hoses with Ethanol resistant modern hoses. New starter motor and custom cabling. Currently in progress Bodywork boxing modification as it was rubbing, including propshaft replacement That's all for now!

So I measured it at 45.5" but as I'm without an overdrive we have a real mix of bits. Engine mounts look to be spaced about 1" back which would also explain the custom gearbox mount I guess. Don't see 50" ever fitting though hmmmm How much range is in a propshaft with telescopic slide? I see Dave Mac is recommended on the forums.

Outstanding! roped in a trusty assistant to lever the block forward and the prop came right out 😄 thanks for the tip! On inspection one of the universal joints is pretty stiff in one axis and the rub looks nasty, what do we recon? time for a new one with spline? Looks like the need to clear the frame piece inspired some interesting mods, such as chocking the gearbox mount with a wood spacer. As the bushes are totally knackered that's probably a task soon. A prop shaft with a bit of slide may make correcting these mounts easier 🤔

It's a rigid one with no sliding portion at the universal joints, unlike the replacements I see on Rimmer. I didn't want to go crazy on them as I thought it should mostly just drop down. At the diff end it slightly rotates in place when I tap the flanges just not got any up, down, left, right motion.

Hi all, Currently trying to remove the propshaft on my Herald based Arrow to get access to remove a bit of frame that really shouldn't be where it is. Seems to have been rubbing on the propshaft when going over bumps 😮 no idea why the previous owner(s) were happy with that one! Got the bolts off but the prop is stuck fast, tried the trusty rubber mallet on the flanges but no dice. Is there a knack to it or an end I should be focusing on to drop this out?

Just an update after a bit of use, pressure looks like not a problem and seems to be operating absolutely fine. When I primed the pump I felt the point where it stopped pressurizing.

So I attached my jump leads from the starter +ve directly to the battery without sign of life. So after completely refreshing all the leads with new 300A I came to the conclusion it was the starter itself. Replaced that and hey presto it turns over, doesn't start yet but that's for another day 🙂 Thanks all!

Thanks all! I gave Rimmers a call and they confirmed that the new pump is okay to use, they get this asked plenty it seems. Will double check pressure to be on the safe side. The old pump diaphragm is pretty knackered so it would need a rebuild and the lot was filled with degraded rubber from further up the line, I'll hang on to it and snag a rebuild kit when I next have to get something!

Giving the fuel system a strip down currently, replacing hoses with R9 ones, fitting filter all of that good stuff. When it came to the pump I snagged a new one from rimmers https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-208493 as it says should fit my herald engine (GAxxxxxxxHE) The old one has no spacer and is marked AC on the top, when I pulled it off found that the arms are slightly different angles and the new one is certainly harder to actuate with a bit of a rough molding. Is this going to cause me a headache, should I be rebuilding the old one?

Progress with some jump leads! I bridged from the solenoid +ve to starter terminal, and battery -ve to the -ve terminal floating and it turned over. As that is basically the complete circuit minus the solenoid I connected back up and then strangely the ignition turned over and I almost had it started, but after a couple of tries back to nothing. So even though I used all the cables in the test I'll make up some new cables anyway. But I found that the ignition coil was getting hot, not something I expected - do they get hot to the touch when running? Its not too hot to touch but at least 40C

Took the starter out again and cleaned up the face to the bell housing on both sides. Cleaned up the terminals on the cables all around. Gave the motor another go on the bench using the positive terminal cable and the body of the motor and that sparked into life. Still no dice when back in the car, even when bridging the solenoid, no sparks or sign of life. The only cable I couldn't clean up was the negative from the bell housing as that bolt needs freeing, so that looks like the culprit. Enough juice for lights and gauges, not enough to crank it.

Thanks both! I'll check those out next.