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Dannyb

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Posts posted by Dannyb

  1. 14 hours ago, Wendy Dawes said:

    I have the CT website stored on my iPhone  I simply logged on, opened in safari then saved it as a bookmark on my homepage - one click and I’m straight on the website so

    it is very easy to do Jim 😊👍

    IMG_1573.jpeg

    Same with me. When in the forum I just add it to the home screen. One click and I'm in the forum.  

    Danny

    • Like 2
  2. Crankshaft back in today. The 2 Thrust washers supplied by the machine shop were spot on. The new pistons next which have already been gapped and fitted to each piston by the shop. So much easier like this. It will then have to sit until after Christmas when I get time to remove the old engine.

    Danny

    • Like 1
  3. I am rebuilding the original 1500 engine for my Spit. Last week i got the block and crankshaft back from the engineering shop.

    Block has now been painted and new core plugs fitted. I'm about to refit the crank. My first question is, should there be washers on the main bearing bolts. Rimmers and Haynes books show washers. But my workshop manual shows none. I would have thought when I took the engine out 16 years ago I would have kept the washers with the bolts when I refitted the mains caps back on the block before storing it. Maybe the only the pre 1500 engines had them.

    Danny

  4. Took it for a 5 mile twisty lane drive. Got back and measured ground to arch. Front still sitting at 23 inch. Offside rear at 23 1/2 inches with 1 deg negitive camber. Rear nearside  23 1/4 inches  0 deg camber.

    The annoying thing is the rattle is still there. I'm now thinking it could be the drivers inersia seat belt. It's not as smooth as the passenger one and clicks when smoothly pulling the belt which is type of sound Im earing. Not sure if they are serviceable.

    Danny

    • Confused 1
  5. 19 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:

    @Dannyb let's hope when you get it back on the wheels and out on the road all this work has paid off and the rattle is gone!

    I was thinking that. I'm also hoping the ride height is OK. When I did the front springs and spacers it was 23 inches to wheel arch on all four corners.

    I should know by the weekend.

    Danny

    • Like 2
  6. Update. After a touch of manflu I have now put the spring back together. Many thanks to Clive for supplying a replacement spring bracket.

    I have used Duraflex polyurethane spring isolators which were a bit of a pig as the buttons did not fit the dimples on the spring leaves. So I had to reshape the back of each button to fit. The spring is back in the car with new shocks and flex brake pipes. Now waiting for new bushes for the radius arms before I can get it back on the wheels.

    Danny

    • Like 3
  7. Ok now found out where the other two buttons go after looking on YouTube it goes between main spring and safety  spring. Never noticed this when dismantling mine must have been missing.

    Danny

     

    • Like 3
  8. 6 hours ago, garyf said:

    Most spring have 4 of the thrust buttons per side (8 In total)

    With the Spit I have the main spring with the safety spring and 3 others which have the dimples to locate the pads. So 6 pads. I suppose the kit of 8 is for other Triumph models that have an extra spring perhaps. 

    Danny

  9. My spring has now been taken apart and painted. The insulating buttons under the spring were well worn. In fact one was missing under the spring with the broken bracket. I count six. Rimmers catalogue says 4. 

    I've ordered a set of polly pads which come as eight. Workshop manual does not say how many there should be.

    Danny

     

    • Like 1
  10. 1 hour ago, Clive said:

    You should be able to replace the rivet with a countersunk bolt/nyloc if you don't have rivets available. Making a bracket should be easy enough. I may even have an old spring section in the garage with one on, can have a look later

    Thanks Clive. That would be fantastic. And a good idea using a countersunk bolt.

    Danny

    • Like 1
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