Dannyb

Just removed the front springs from the Spit. They have been on the car with the shocks for 20 years. I was getting tyre rub on the o/s wheel arch. The car has always sat low at the front and measuring the compressed spring it was 7 inches which i believe should be about 8 inch.  Both springs  measure 12 inches in length. Also when on the car theres not much room between the coils.

Could it be they were for a earlier model and too soft.

Danny

With multimeter connected to chassis I've worked out the live through on/off switch as contact no4. Contact no2. (Fat one) is the earth. Contact 6 measures 20 ohms.  Contact 5 is also earth. 

Danny

I have a British Leyland M&L wave radio. Made by Radiomobile. I'm wondering if there was a special plug for the power and speakers ?

I intend to solder the wires to the board connections and use my own plug. 

Can anyone confirm what connection are what. I suspect the large tag is for 12v+.

Danny

Looks great. Ready for the next 250k of driving.

Danny

That's  a shame, I was a member of Club Triumph Eastern about 20 years ago. I left to join Club Triumph because of the driving events. CTE become more a car social club with cars of all makes rather than just Triumphs.

Danny

Mines March 1980 and had the same fog lights at each corner.

Danny

There is slow and very slow. I took all the screw gear out and oiled it added new wiper gears boxes which made all the difference.  I can now make out the different speeds but nothing to wright home about. 

I was yesterday driving in heavy rain and they worked very well with silicone blades.

Danny

Because I have adjustable pushrod on my master cylinders my rubber boots would always come loose.  So I've now made alloy covers. Inside I have stuck P shape rubber around the aperture.

Danny

I'll  be there Sunday.

Danny

16 hours ago, standardthread said:

Try a centre punch at the side of the screw?

Worked a treat.

Thanks

Danny

Same colour Wim. Or are you thinking of changing.

Danny

Re-tightened head. All OK. But the rocker rear pedistal to shaft screw has come out again. This is after i used locktight. Also no screw to be seen, so I removed no8 pushrod and put my magnet stick down and to my relief fished out the screw. 

What do others do to secure this screw. I noticed in the Haynes manual it has a shake proof washer  but the factory workshop manual does not, also Rimmer catalogue doesn't have one.

Danny

I think I used 2.5 litres of cellulose  but the only bits I did inside was bonnet and bootlid.

Danny

Lots of cars have lost these escutcheons over the years mine included, although I was lucky to find one on ebay. At one time I was thinking of making one from stainless steal.

Danny

If you remove the lock I'm sure but not certain the chrome rivet goes all the way through where it is splayed over to stop it coming out.

What I would do is junk the chrome rivet/pin and replace with a pin from a rivet. If the hole does not go right through to the underside of the lock then you can drill it so the pin can go straight through and cut an splayed over. Does that make sense 🤔 

Danny

All looks good, oil and water levels stable. will take it for a longer trip tomorrow. Looks like I'm ready for the C2C 🤞

Danny

On 19/05/2023 at 13:26, yorkshire_spam said:

@Rutty love the cable-tie idea! I'm nicking that one!

This was a great idea which I used the other week when changing the cam. Problem was I have a duplex tensioner which when trying to pull the cable tie out it snapped off inside, so I had to start again. I used the strongest cable tie I had. 

Danny

I can't see how the body can move if the clamp is gripping the dizzy body properly and is also bolted to the pedistal.

If you take the dizzy out and also the clamp you can then try clamping it off the car. It maybe somethings wrong with the clamp.

I brought a Lucas dizzy from a well known supplier which needed the clamp bending slightly but i could only do it with the dizzy out so I could see what was needed.

Danny

All back together.started her up , got it worm and re-torqued head.will drive it a bit and then check head torque again. 🤞

Danny

Ok Wim, I see its the two water holes near the fire ring  that you sleeved.

Danny

The first time was no1 piston leaking into coolant.  The after changing the gasket I had water in the new oil. 

You say you fitted 2 bronze bushes. Where exactly.  Did you take photo.

Danny

21 minutes ago, WIMPUS said:

I've had a top hose from Bastuck germany in my stock, they seem a bit longer and more flexible then what the others sell.

So for now it works out and still no leaks😅

 

Oh.. s

22 minutes ago, WIMPUS said:

 

Oh.. still busy to fit the mk3 spec cam ? 

Head gasket blew so I took the opportunity to put the new cam in. Problem the head gasket started leaking after 20 miles so the heads back off at the moment. But the cam has really transformed the way the car drives. Hope to be back on the road by the weekend.

Danny

Head now off the spit and both surfaces cleaned. I checked straightness with a steel rule and could not get a 2 thou feeler gauge under it at any point. Smallest gauge I had. Probably be Thursday before i start to put it back together.

Danny

That looks like the same radiator I have on mine. The new top hoses seem to be shorter than the old original ones. The new top hose lasted about 20 minutes before splitting. The gap and angle is all wrong.  I've just bought a 30mm ID hose with a 45 deg bend which looks like it will fit much better although it doesn't have the concertina in the middle. 

Won't know how it fits until I get the head back on, that's another story 😁

Danny

I'll be stripping it down today and cleaning. While waiting for new gasket set to arrive. Probably won't get a chance to put back together until Thursday.

Danny