Matt George

Mike,

Only just seen this, but I've had a Revotec fan and Revotec controller fitted since 2015 with no issues. The fan is wired in with its own separate fuse, but no relay for the switch IIRC. It blew the original 15amp fuse early on, but has been fine with a 20amp fuse ever since.

Matt

Intrigued as what was used in the  replacement of the gearstick console cover… mine is shot and definitely ready to be replaced!

Per Tim B… after careful review of the signing in/out sheets we now have the numbers for successful finishers and  the unlucky retirees: 110no entrants, 14 non finishers, 8 did not start. Therefore, we had 88 finishers.

5 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Blasted water pumps that are being sold are not that good....generally the County ones.

Canley's one is good though, cannot remember the make of them though.

I intend to use my GT6 for the next RBRR.

 

Tim, I think with the County pumps it depends whether you get a 'good' one to start with or not. Have used them on my 2000 since 2010 and the TR since it went back on the road in 2019, no problems with either over many thousands of miles. 2000 has done 4x RBRR and 3x 10CR etc. So, I've probably jinxed it now!

Matt

2 hours ago, JohnD said:

 

Velocita Rosso, are you there?  Hello?  Please tell us, what are the "right pads"?

No answer.    I just love it when people make opinionated statements and fail to back them up.

On the rest above, yes, 1144s are good for road use.   But I race mine, and with the vented discs I use 1155s that have a higher operating temperature.   The result is that my brakes never fade, even when I 'm using late braking.      And what's more, they still work straight out of the garage, when  they are cold.

John

 

John, that is interesting. I've used 1144 pads on my 2500 saloon for ten years now and they are absolutely fantastic. Definitely up there as one of the top 'improvements/modifications' that I've made in 16 years of ownership.
I got a set of 1155s cheap, but haven't used them yet as I haven't found anybody who suggests they are suitable for the road. Would you recommend them for road use then?

Thanks,

Matt

Will be co-driving this with my dad (it's his car) and our good friend Jason Wright. A fifth RBRR each for dad and I, but Jase will be taking part for the first time. Should be fun!

Not long to go!

Hi Ben,

I'd love to take you up on your kind offer… a mixed bag of anything and everything would be much appreciated!

I'll PM you.

All the best,

Matt

Hi Peter,

I'm interested in finding out how much you'd charge for a dash and have attempted to PM you!

Thanks,

Matt

PM sent.

Oh the part number for the skinny K & N filters is 56-1400. 

Oh the part number for the skinny K & N filters is 56-1400. 

I took the car to a guy called Ron Harper in Faceby. He starts with a fatter/leaner needle (with room to take meat off) and then files down each station where extra fuel is required. Mine were richened up towards the top end of the rev range for example.

The process is obviously a bit more complicated than that, but that’s my layman’s explanation!

So, I’ve basically got bespoke needles to my application. I’d thoroughly recommend Ron – great results and not very expensive either. Car goes VERY well

I took the car to a guy called Ron Harper in Faceby. He starts with a fatter/leaner needle (with room to take meat off) and then files down each station where extra fuel is required. Mine were richened up towards the top end of the rev range for example.

The process is obviously a bit more complicated than that, but that’s my layman’s explanation!

So, I’ve basically got bespoke needles to my application. I’d thoroughly recommend Ron – great results and not very expensive either. Car goes VERY well

Try this…

Try this…

I have twin K & N pancake filters on my 2500 – they are thin and the fit is close to the turret, but everything clears. Had to cut down the bolt nearest the turret, but no other issue. Then had some BDM needles machined to suit the additional air flow. When I work out how to add pics on here I'll post a pic!

Matt 

I have twin K & N pancake filters on my 2500 – they are thin and the fit is close to the turret, but everything clears. Had to cut down the bolt nearest the turret, but no other issue. Then had some BDM needles machined to suit the additional air flow. When I work out how to add pics on here I'll post a pic!

Matt 

Oh, and as Steve mentioned above, a sports exhaust system will also let the thing breathe better and improve performance, too. Plus a head skim to up compression while you're at it –  welcome to the slippery slope of saloon ownership/modification!

Oh, and as Steve mentioned above, a sports exhaust system will also let the thing breathe better and improve performance, too. Plus a head skim to up compression while you're at it –  welcome to the slippery slope of saloon ownership/modification!

Saloon PI cam (308778) would be a good option. I have one in my 2500 on SUs and it performs very well. More 'oomph' than standard but still plenty tractable and fine for a daily driver. 

Saloon PI cam (308778) would be a good option. I have one in my 2500 on SUs and it performs very well. More 'oomph' than standard but still plenty tractable and fine for a daily driver. 

1144 all the way.

We're on the 1400 Dover-Dunkirk out Tuesday 5, return 1400 Dunkirk-Dover Sunday 10 🙂

Steve,

I also have a 14 inch fan fitted on the engine side of the rad, with mechanical fan removed. Is it purely for space reasons/PAS that you need to go for a fan in front of the rad?]

M