Matt George

Will you be getting any more front wheel arch repair panels done Lloyd?

I've got an 'A' type fitted to my 2500 on HS6s. From memory the clearance is tight between the battery and alternator, but it does clear. May be due to the fact that the battery is quite a big one.

My unit is an uprated 65amp one for a Stag. Something like this…

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-.....MH5l-1Fv09Qb-eG0jQKg

Cheers,
Matt

Quoted from thebrookster

Jonny,

Brakes - I went the Stag route, I might suggest better pads than stock however with whatever route you choose? I was intending Mintex 1144's myself.

Cheers,

Phil

Quoted from CRAJ

I have the full Stag setup on the PI Matt, except the pwda valve (or whatever it's called), I have noticed that after hard use (track days) the brakes and handbrake on the car are very good, pedal travel lessens too, so the rear brake adjusters need to be 'assisted' to auto adjust.
Pads make a huge difference to the braking between the two cars, NOS pads seem much more fade resistant and brake better than new pads. I have never tried the Mintex pads, but I have heard good things about them and probably will try them one day. The larger rear brakes of the Stag setup also help imho, but because of the drum shape fitting some wheels requires a thin spacer. Both our MOMOS AND WOLFRACE slots are effected in this way. This can be an issue with rear arch clearance on the wider mk2 rear suspension.

Colin

Quoted from Nick Jones

I ran Stag front brakes (M1144 pads) on my PIe with original M/C and rear brakes.  Pedal travel was marginally longer* but brakes were excellent.  I did not notice any strange balance effects and they were used quite hard on a few occasions.  

*All the pedal travel problems I had with that car were the rear self-adjusters not doing what they were supposed to.  They did sort of work but were always about 3 clicks behind where they should have been.  Mk1 has the advantage there I reckon.

Nick

Quoted from Shed 1969

I put stag front brakes on the MK1 "Cairo Taxi" used MK2 hubs that I had kicking around,kept the MK1 rear drums for the decent manual adjusters, Mk2 servo and master ...bashed the inner wing in a bit to get it to fit  braided front  flex pipes worked a treat never had a balance issue,or diving front end etc- suspension worth considering when making braking upgrades as it all works together  .. Taxi was  MK2 ARB,front dampers were spax with a CW progressive spring,rears were Koni classics with a 475 spring, (standard height) 14" wheels 175/65 Continentals superflex all round...all seemed to work really well for fun everyday day use ..oh and MK2 trailing arms with MK2 "Datsun" drive shafts ..and a CW "quick rack"

Cheers guys, will bear that in mind. So to utilise the Stag calipers then I do need to fit a Stag master cyl and servo? Is this simple enough on the MkII? Likewise, will I suffer imbalance if I stick with the MkII drums rather than Stag ones?

Matt

Quoted from thescrapman

Yes you probably need to change the hubs, though some later ones do seem to crop up on earlier braking systems.

I will undoubtable have some later ones about.

As for finding Stag calipers, good luck!

James Shackford can source brand new Konis, for a very reasonable price as well.

Dad's TR6 arrived home today, thankfully unscathed 🙂

All,

Thanks for the replies, certainly some food for thought here. I have CW 205/400 springs on the front and 575s on the back, Konis all round. As hinted at originally, the car does handle very well and surprised on the 10CR in terms of how far we could push it. Certainly didn't experience any understeer or oversteer.

Perhaps I am actually trying to address the wrong issue/an issue that isn't actually there… Taking some weight out of the car is definitely on my list of things to do, but might be worth running the car without the ARB to see what difference that makes.

Thanks again,
Matt

Quoted from thescrapman

I'll throw the cat amongst the pigeons..

Are you sure you actually need an ARB???

Quoted from StagNL

Out of curiosity, I take it that the one Monarch sells is originally intended for Stags?
And, what have you got fitted at the moment?

I ask as one day, hopefully, I shall get myself another Saloon and would very much like to fit an ARB but would like to know what is ideal for general road use.

Julian

Hello all,

I'm considering fitting a stiffer front ARB to my 2000, however I don't fancy paying £250 for a new 1in version from Monarch.

So my questions are two-fold…

A – Has anybody got a seconfdhand item they'd be prepared to sell?
B – Has anyone out there fitted an uprated bar from a different source/come up with something of their own design?

Cheers in anticipation,
Matt

Gary,

The Unipart number is GFE227. Fram equivalent is PH2964, Champion is C114. I called my local motor factor and asked them to cross-reference the Unipart number against filters on the computer system.

Found me a generic filter that fits – I forget the brand – but I've just completed the 10CR with it on and no problems 🙂

Cheers,
Matt

Quoted from Keith

Hang on a minute Mike, Tony's axle failure was after the finish so can't be called a failure.

K

Quoted from Raider

Steve we have 3 in the 2000 so there is space for one more plus Matt George ' codriver has let him down so there are places in other cars yet

Taking the gearbox out at the weekend to try and get to the bottom of a sticky clutch issue. Fingers crossed we get it sorted!

Sorry, just realised the captive issue, so my idea might not work after all!

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

Hmm, I was hoping to avoid drilling holes in the body if I could help it.
The other thing I was considering was making up some stainless steel mounts to hold the fan that sandwich between the body and the radiator on the 6 mounting points - although on my car it's two captives at the top and then four nuts and bolts at the bottom.

Cheers Roy 🙂

Any ideas of places to get MLB40 1144s from? TSSC have them listed at £69, just wondering if anyone else knows a cheaper supplier?

Matt

Hello all,

I'm looking for a more performance-oriented clutch for my 2500 saloon, and came across some DriveTorque clutch kits on eBay. Taking the description as read, the Stage 1 or Stage 2 versions sound good to me, but I'd appreciate knowing if anyone on here has any experience of them please?

Thanks in anticipation :)

Quoted on the ad: DriveTorque Stage 1 Clutch Kits are designed for the Modified Fast Road Car. They are suitable for cars with up to 25% greater horsepower & torque than the standard production model. They give a 25 - 30% increase in torque capacity & clamp load, whilst still retaining the pedal feel of a standard clutch. DriveTorque Stage 1 Clutch Kits contain a Heavy Duty Clutch Cover & either a Carbon Kevlar or Alloy Backed 215mm Drive Plate.

DriveTorque Stage 2 Clutch Kits are designed for the Significantly Modified Fast Road Car or Track Car. They are suitable for cars with 25% to 40% increased horsepower & torque than the standard production model. They give a significant increase in torque capacity & clamp load, and so are able to perform on the track as well as on the street. DriveTorque Stage 2 Clutch Kits contain a Heavy Duty Clutch Cover & a High Strength 215mm Kevlartek Drive Plate.

Full links below:

STAGE 1
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorque-Stage-1-Clutch-Kit-Rover-Triumph-2500-2-5i-10-67-04-75/231535676190?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31101%26meid%3Daa426f7b6492494b831844a428dd9bb7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121629231976&rt=nc

STAGE 2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorque-Stage-2-Clutch-Kit-Rover-Triumph-2500-2-5i-10-67-04-75/121629231976?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31101%26meid%3D1413f85ef647460a97caede6360b6391%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D231535676190&rt=nc

STAGE 3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorque-Stage-3-Clutch-Kit-Rover-Triumph-2500-2-5i-10-67-04-75/121630926216?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31101%26meid%3D47bd1e38e9044acb802cafe034c8e7a3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D231535676190&rt=nc

Well I'm another one in the sans bumpers club  ;)

My car is currently away getting the front valance and nearside sill put back to Saffron, after doing the RBRR in grey primer. Also got the diff back in – looks like the majority of the slop in the drivetrain is due to worn driveshafts, so I've sourced a set of uprated, Rilsan coated versions from EJ Ward. Looking forward to getting the car back and doing a few miles running up to the 10CR :)

Matt

Good stuff Laurence :) How is the TR coming along?

M