Baxter

Gunnar

Thanks for sharing.  This is looking fantastic and must be very satisfying making such good progress.  Good luck with the rest

Baxter

I was a TSSC member in my Triumph infancy in the 80s, but coming back to the fold in 2015 I found the most useful answers to questions regarding my new project came from the CT forum.  Never done FB and never will, so really hope this forum gets the support it needs from CT.

I'd already found the following two brackets on the GT6 mki/ii plates on the Canley Classics site

Overdrive Inhibitor Switch Bracket (PN 133770)

(the corresponding cam being marked as 'early type')

Reverse Bracket (PN 126746)

So I already ordered them.  I'll try to report back if they fit okay and the switches operate correctly.  May take me a while as I had a major project setback yesterday.

BTW the 'double ended' bracket in your photo did show up in my searches too, but it always seemed to be associated with the Kamm tail GT6/Spitfires.  Could that be the case?  I didn't look too hard once I'd found the above drawings and parts

Thanks Rob.  I don't have a switch located there, like the photo you found.  I wondered if it was something to do with the dog-leg levers.  Mine just operate in mid-air but seemed in need of a job to do.  So it looks now like I'm short of a bracket to hold the switch here; and then another one for the other side for the overdrive inhibitor switch.  Will have to get shopping!

Where do I find the reverse light switch on my mk1 GT6?  I'm just finishing fitting a new wiring loom, but as this was car was bought as a project I didn't have the benefit of seeing how the old one connected.  Searching this site and the web I can only find pictures for other Triumphs and see nothing similar on the housing near my gear lever

Quick update on the outcome of this:

I bought an oil filter housing that had been removed from a Vitesse and it turned out to be identical to my original one...though the oil filter bolt, spring and valve that came with it were different.  It also came with a spare filter which was shorter than the two previous ones which had been crushed.  Fitting this time was no problem, and after a couple of weeks running there are no leaks to report.  Crazy, but I will now have to measure new filters to check their spec before fitting.

Thanks for all the help on this one. Pete, good to know there is a breather re-route option to accommodate spin on adapter, but for now I prefer to stick with the original.  I'm pretty sure I have only one filter seal in the groove in the block, but as you say, I had to remove engine side panel to get decent eye-level access.

Thanks, PM sent

It seems the breather pipe on these early 1600 engines prevents the fitting of the spin-on adapter and filter, so I'm in the market for a replacement original housing

I'm struggling to believe my filter housing is wrong, but here's a photo of the filter I removed. Fitted by professionals who work on these cars every day, so something serious must be up...

Here's my filter housing. Obviously it is in situ so a short length extends beyond the start of the steel rule into the groove on the block.  But only approx. 2 5/8" showing at full width, so let's say 2 3/4" overall compared to 3" on Rob's.

Thanks. Car is offsite so I'll hope for less rain tomorrow and pop over to the workshop to measure mine

Here's the sump plug after 10 months and 1,000 miles.  Assume they cleaned it on previous oil change.  Engine rebuilt 5 years and 5,000 miles ago

...thinking about possible damage, I guess someone could have shortened the housing in the past to accept a smaller filter element, and it wouldn't be apparent if done neatly. But why??

Also thinking my oil has not been filtered for last 1,000 miles, and maybe much longer. Was already concerned by the quantity of iron filings on the sump plug.  I wonder what is normal?  Will try to post a photo...

Rob, thanks for speedy response and kind offer. No, no sign of damage to the oil filter housing or foreign object within. 

I'm thinking spin-on conversion might be a timely way to overcome this problem

Hi all,

Just attempted my first oil/filter change on my Vitesse 6 and have problems similar to midgeman's.

Firstly, it seemed very difficult to line up the new filter element between the spring/valve and the engine block. (I now see there is a part number 509883: Centraliser for filter, which didn't seem present when I removed the old filter.)  I tightened carefully, keeping the canister aligned with the groove and new rubber seal.  It was tight before the rim had even reached the groove, and as I reached the 15-18 lbft specified, the wear marks on the outside of the canister showed it was still a couple of mm shy of its previous location.  So I added a little more torque, put the new oil in, and cranked the engine over a couple of times.  The oil gushed out from around the canister.

Taking it apart, I compared my new Classic Gold GFE131 filter with the old one (I don't know the brand/type), fitted by a specialist 10 months and 1,000 miles ago.  Their filter was overall approx. 5mm shorter than my new one, and crushed a couple of mm more on one side.  The new one had just started to crush a little too. 

To investigate further, I put it in a press and made it the same length as the one I'd removed, rupturing the filter a little.  Now it fits snuggly and the canister tightened up with the right feel to the correct torque (though I don't know if the filter element remained centralised).  Engine idles with no leak.

So was GFE131 the wrong filter? Seemingly not: the cannister is stamped E730 requiring element AC73 which appears to be equivalent to the GFE131.  Did I have something out of line? Maybe: it's tight down there beneath the crankcase breather pipe, and I decided to remove the engine side panel for my second attempt.  But why was the filter I removed both damaged and so much smaller than the new one?

Would love to know what's gone wrong here and how best to proceed.  Need to get an effective filter in asap.  Maybe time for a spin-on adapter?

Cheers, Baxter