Greta

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

The weekend saw me avail myself of a friends' workshop and strip the engine. I shall be exploring what re dress, if any, I may have but the list of problems discovered were as follows.

1) The gnashing sound appears to be the result of Valve springs boring themselves into the head due to the fact that NO valve spring seats were fitted!

2) End float into millimetres - both Thrust Washers found in the sump - one perfect - no sign of any wear whatsoever - the other ground to a sliver of a wedge ! - The crank and block also ground & scoured

3) Broken & missing Piston Ring on #1

4) Broken big end bearings in two positions

5) Noticeable Piston slap in one pot

6) Valve seat recession on all pots and no unleaded valve seats.

Given that this engine has done less than 10k, was built by a well known Triumph Specialist and then recommissioned by another Triumph specialist only 2k miles ago who charged for the fitting of replacement "correct valve springs" - I feel that despite the hard use she's been given somewhat aggrieved to say the least. The Block, crank and head are all scrap.

I'd been sold the engine ( without a number on the head ) as being a "Fresh engine" - never fitted - built from NOS stores - yet when grinding the carbon from the Pistons they are clearly marked as 40 thou.

The sorry tale just illustrates that when insufficiently knowledgeable about our engines and cars it is oh so very easy to be taken for a ride.

I'm really not sure how to proceed - I feel I should contact both specialists and describe my findings, and at least ask them for a possible explanation. I'm very conscious of the seriousness of what I'm saying but as I personally assisted with the strip down I'm 100% confident that what I've described amounts to incompetence at best and fraudulent deceit at worse.

If any of you have any advice as to just how I should proceed from here I would be most grateful.

I had similar issues - and may still be chasing the best set up... but at present on a TR5 style cam she won't easily idle much below 1100rpm - when she's at 12* BTDC - with maximum advance about 32.

Hope ! Your post brings me hope and sends me to bed in a better mood. I'll not get a chance to  tinker until next week but thank you for your useful directions - I'll report back when I know more. 

Oh dear... just when you think things are going well.
I'd convinced myself that the gnashing sound above 3000 rpm was just poor timing or carbs out of balance - But
Following a trip to John Ruddock - Classic Mechanic Alchemist of Tholthorpe near Easingwold, and the GT6's is back on song - ... apart from ... the gnashing at high revs is still there.  John thinks it is the classic "thrust Washer" problem - particularly as the pulley can be seen moving forward and back on hard revving.... However, there seems no obvious change in tone when the clutch is depressed.

Help needed on thrust washer failure diagnosis - ... and perhaps recommendations for where to go for a quick check, out, repair, in, tune, fix !!

Thanks for your views Ted -

I need to do something as I think my Dizzy Cam Lobes are worn - the peaks and the heel of the points only just meet. I've been trying to source a serviceable Lucas 6 cylinder dizzy with mechanical tacho-but so far no luck ( see thread from some weeks ago) - - but I am having to explore other options.

I've driven Greta for 15 years on points but now don't seem to be able to properly maintain timing ... I of course could be barking up the wrong tree entirely - but she needs to run much more smoothly and efficiently than at present or she'll be sitting RBRR out and watching one of her stablemates do it instead.

Problem is manifest by a gnashing ( I really don't believe it's pinking ) noise when revs reach 4k - carbs are both sucking equal amounts of air, revs are too high for weights in the dizzy to be stuck, too low for valve bounce, rockers set and reset - all suggestions welcome.

Ok - In the drive for performance and reliability - Ref Historic Rallying and RBRR - what do the team think?

Scrutineers reliably inform me that I CAN move away from points to electronic ignition and still remain within the regulations of post historic (H2 / Cat. 2 )  rallying provided I use the optronic and not magnetronic system - as Luminition WAS available in period as an after market tuning option.

So Ref use of such in a GT6 MKII what are the comparative pros and cons of either the Standard Lumenition Optronic system vs the Performance Optronic system - ( high revs in 2nd gear on tests - but otherwise normal driving with some high speed cruising. )

Particularly interested in the experience of those that have used such. Are they compatible with the mechanical tacho-drive my current Ex TR6 USA Spec Lucas Dizzy has?

Hi George - I'm up near Keswick, Cumbria.

Team 22 (GT6 MKII ) - Looking for a serviceable Distributor - 22D6 with Mechanical Tacho Drive - as fitted to Vitesses and TR5 & TR6 

I currently run points as regs for HRCR dictate I do so - but without meddling with my points tacho I'd like to have another in which I can fit electronic ignition for RBRR. I know Accuspark etc do them for about £90 but I hear mixed tales and would prefer to have refurbished a genuine Lucas.

I can't comment about Delco as ever since I've had Greta shes been on a Lucas Dizzy - so please look in that box of bits and see if you can help me. All serious offers considered.

Thank you everyone.
Here is a pic from a guy on ebay who says he can rebuild with "Solid State" internals - as the output seems to have failed - not sure if the problem with mine wasn't also a poor earth to the repainted bulk head.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282480406434?ViewItem=&item=282480406434

.. and a modern version here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOL.....p2485497.m4902.l9144

It sometimes doesn't pay to go digging. With the Gear box cover off - seats out  etc- ( still sorting the collapsed gear linkage ( where does that O ring go !! ) .. I decide to take the passenger glove compartment out ( first time look see !! ) Oh dear ... some of the wiring is just not pretty ... barbecue spaghetti comes to mind - ultimately I think it will require a new loom section for everything behind the dash... but in trying to work out what has gone wrong when and where I've begun a tidy up in the hope that I can make it safe enough to at least drive to a reputable auto electrician.

Here is your picture round and your starter for ten.

Fuse Box is extreme right - with what I think are two !  flasher units in middle and left. The dodgiest wiring - from where I think the short has been comes from the  rectangular unit on the left.

The black insulated taped stub was formally two green wires with a live feed when ignition on...going to the unit on the left - the new green wire ( 5amp)  with blue heat shrink and red terminal leaves the unit - again only live when ignition on. This wire was burnt, corroded bare of insulation and I think the cause of the BBQ
I believ I have isolated these two and can't immediately see whats changed - my indicators still work.

Any advice appreciated.

CABELLA's TR3  - doesn't it make you want to go?

Congratulations to  MARCATTILJ Paolo (ITA) / GIAMMARINO Francesco (ITA) -  who came 1st in class & 25th o/a in this years Monte Carlo Historique. Bueno Bueno !
Pic is of their car on the 2017 edition taken from Steve McKelvie's Blog.

and to CABELLA Emilio (ITA) / MATTIUZZI Angelo (ITA) 211/275 and 2nd in class - the only other Triumph !!

I appreciate this is all "old hat" to the experienced but as I find it frustrating on other forums to find only half an answer thought I'd post this pic as a possible useful guide to others .... And in an attempt to encourage other 1147 engineers to post their experience.

Champion also show shorter plugs - but I'm sure there must be some here that can advise a good plug for both performance and importantly reliability.

In doing all I can to minimise misfire in recent wet weather I decide to change my plugs on the MKII 1147cc Spitfíre. Which? - Go to NGKs comprehensive list https://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/downloads/


BP6HS  - 1/2 inch clearly listed. Order these from my TMS and pull the plugs I've got. To discover That the car has been running fine in the summer on longer 3/4 inch plugs - so why fit the shorter length plugs recommended by NGK?

The longer plugs don't appear to have been hitting the piston crown but do have soot on lower threads ( assume these have been exposed ). Am told the shorter plug will lower Compression Ratio.

Please advise pros & cons and make recommendations

Quoted from JohnD

Coming late to this, but to point out that a multimeter and a little understanding of what happens in a relay, will let you work it out.

For relays that have four terminals, two are the coil and two for the feed and supply to the unit to be switched.
Only the first pair are in continuity on the bench, so set your MM to resistance, or "continuity" if you have it (it will bleep if you touch the probes together) and test the terminals.
One pair will show that they are connected - that is the coil and should be wired to the switch on your dashboard or whatever.

The other pair are to be wired to a supply and to the unti to be powered.

Simples!
John

PS circuit diagrams of the Lucas 6RA relays are readily available online.

Thanks guys - it was wired correctly so I guess the relay really is goosed.

That's the clearest wiring diagram I've ever seen. ( Have you a similarly clear diagram that shows how to convert from Dynamo to Alternator - the clearest online diagram I could find doesn't match the rather garbled instructions posted with my dynastar.


Just for completeness - Can one use the more modern cube type relay - if so what are the equivalent terminals?

the 2007 thread about this leaves me still confused.

I'll not prejudice your suggestions but I believe my relay may be goosed because it might have been incorrectly connected. It no longer clicks when ign on,  in gear and switch activated. - It had been working so previous set up worked but I think the live feeds may have been the wrong way around.


6RA Has 4 Terminals, W1, W2, C1 & C2

There are 4 wires, ( On mine ) ... which I think are?

1) Brown - Constant live 12V higher amp gauge
2) White - connected to coil - 12V Ign feed
3) Yellow - from column O/D Switch
4) Purple - to O/D Solenoid

I want to ensure I wire correctly before I start chasing problems in the Overdrive or solenoid. There are also other almost identical relays some rated 24V - I assume they won't work. Advice as to most reliable source also appreciated as there seem to be several options and I suspect several lucas copies.

Please only post if you are 100% confident - threads elsewhere suggest Haynes may be wrong?

Markus & I had fun on this years Monte Heritage. Read my blog or follow this link: http://viper.dowie.org/monte-carlo-rally-glasgow-start-2018/

Really pleased to be signed up for this and hope I can find a co-driver..

Just a thought on the suggested provisional route. Taking The Snake Pass sucks us into Stockport & Sheffield - would A537 - Cat & Fiddle through to A6 allow us to avoid urban roads more easily?

http://www.drivingforpleasure.co.uk/roads-and-tours/uk-road.php?s=2011-08-24-cat-and-fiddle

Please add me in my MK Ii Spitfíre. Greta

... it's been a while since there was a detailed thread on tyres for our cars... and several changes in the market place.
I've been wasting time today researching choices -...

For the original 155\80\R13 the choices are becoming ever more limited! Even with 175\70\R13 the choice can still be limited. I've been looking for Premium ( Good Quality) All Season Tyres

At 155 perhaps the best I've found are:

Vredestein Quatrac 5

at 175 In all season there seems to be a choice of two :

Falken Euro All Season

Goodyear 4 Season Gen2

In 165 no recommended all seasons could be found.

For Summer use I have been recommended

Dunlop Street Response
Falken  SN832


Economy, Fuel Consumption and durability are less of a concern to me than all round performance as I want tyres I can use for Historic Road Rallying - all year round. I appreciate all is a compromise but would be interested to read your suggestions for currently available tyres that meet these criteria.
Thanks

Are there any CT entries into this years' Monte Historique / Classique /or Heritage Run?

If I can find a navigator I hope to follow the Paisley start to Dumfries & Penrith.

Anyone interested in joining me?

http://www.monte.scot/index.php

I think its time to service my rear axle. I have a spare pair of old half shafts and hubs which I hope could be serviced prior to a quick swop. 

Having neither the tools nor experience to do the job with confidence can any here suggest where or who I might go to. Thanks.

Glasgow to Preston

Not sure what the route planners have in mind for this years route - but living as I do 30 mins west of Penrith I'm happy to advise or route check anything about this section - that's if it's anything other than a run down the M74 /  M6.

BTW - If anyone has an old road book ( Wasn't there a re-print one year!) that I can look through to begin to get familiar - it would be appreciated as both Phil & I are newbies. Also if there is to be a reliance on SATNAV some recommendations as to which would be useful too -it needs to be relatively inexpensive,  easy to load way-points & intuitive to use.