Gt6s

If that whats bothering you DO NOT GO OUT ! Failing that DO NOT HIT ANYTHING ! You know the risks its your decision alone. Do really you think those who run expensive to priceless cars on track at race speeds are not aware ?

On 16/03/2023 at 17:46, standardthread said:

 

It's called a Glaswegian screwdriver, 

You forgot the Glasgow kiss and the Glasgow smile. Us Bog Trotters have our own versions of the same Ballymena screwdrivers or knocking out of gear going down big hills Ballymena overdrive. The Sandy row special.  A Monk by the neck. (Monk Export ale).

On 16/03/2023 at 16:43, Adrianb said:

I’m 63 so so it’s all beyon me so I get my 2 year old grand son to fix it same principle “ Chuck it on Floor”

I am 63 as well. Drop on floor hit with BFH Big----ing Hammer. WELL KNOWN EFFECTIVE PRESISION ENGINEERING TECHNIQUES. !

On 13/03/2023 at 10:32, Steve AKA vitessesteve said:

I am in.

This morning I tipped the unit towards me and slapped it's back. First time still not able to open up. But second time after a bigger tip and vicorus shake I was able to open up.

Now for a celebration tunnock biscuit and cuppa.

Good job. My laptop buggered up BLUE SCREEN While trying and failing to fix it, it fell on the floor and instantly worked again. Happened a few times after. Drop on floor again allways sorted it.

#The blue screen thing eventually went away STILL USING IT.

As Nick says NOTHING FITS, MX5 seats are too high a seat base at 6ft 5 I have no chance Gt Spit seats work. I had a pair of Kirkey aluminium race seats in my EFI Gt very thin high density foam padding  near the floor but the seat width to acomodate my lard arse created fitting issues had to cut the alloy in the seat corners and beat the rear inner corners of the floor pans to get them in the Gt. Getting in and out of those high sided seats another issue NOT A PRETTY SIGHT. ( Crawl in, Park arse, Roll out. ) Having a buggered back not helpful either.

Who watches the speedo at 160 ? WATCH THE DAM ROAD ! Things happen really fast at 160. Even bends turn into corners.

Those plughole of doom badges were stuck on Jaguars with water soluable glue so they fell off first wash.

On 18/10/2022 at 18:32, standardthread said:

Mr. BL obviously made changes over time, for example, from Stromberg's to SU's

Job done, drift, lump hammer and flypress!

Just got to put the re-built prop on the car.

A point to note, I did manage to get the yoke off without removing the centre UJ by using a slim 11/16" ring spanner, a different UJ could have proved different.

 

Probably. Ones I have chopped up to modify have been splines. Not of use to me 

I had a mate who was completly insistant centre bearing could not be changed on a Sprint shaft. Till he was presented with an old one at a club meeting

On 05/10/2022 at 11:54, standardthread said:

Cheers Clive, thanks for the tip, I will order a pair for £30 (looks like they have stopped selling singles).

I have managed to get the bolt nearly out without taking the UJ apart to the point where I can turn the bolt with my fingers. I suppose it depends on the profile of both the spanner used and the UJ itself. The problem now is to get the yoke assembly to move off the spline, so far it's about 3/16" and stuck so it is soaking in a pool of penetrating oil. If that fails the UJ will come out and a two leg puller to shift the yoke.

At least I have got my head around the layout now because an old 1850 BL manual shows split collars to hold the bearing in the rubber bung, a castellated nut (now replaced by the bolt above) on a thread that must have been part of the shaft, plus a woodruff key to go in the mix somewhere.

Big hammer ! BTW No woodruff key. it's splined.

i have done this job on my 3 cars There is not a lot of clearance for these. If your column slider is siezed you can have problems.

The magnetic drain plug for the gearbox fits, worth doing. AND IT IS 3/4 Hex head

1/4 UNF Any motor factors ANYWHERE should have them. UNF PRETTY MUCH STANDARD FOR GREASE NIPPLES. Failing motor factors any hydraulic shop.

Koni are REALLY GOOD ! Sounds like siezed trunnion bush's. Have you renewed those lately ?

Nothing wrong with splined yoke shown Just a little beat up JUST USE THE SUCKER. Changing these is a propper SOB !

On 20/06/2022 at 15:15, Martins Stag said:

 

Anyone fitted one to a 2000/Stag?

Triumph 2000 you will need a Rover SD1 2300 2600 bell housing, a TR7 clutch. Might need to make a 1/4 inch spacer plate from another backplate. I know I did for Gt6 conversion . Snag uses the same 2300 2600 bell housing too. Clutch and other details for the Snag NO IDEA.

19 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:

Took the plunge and ordered one, I have a spare 3.63 that I'll use it in and at some point swap them over. (Although Spitfire is "back burner" until after the 10CR in the Dolomite) 

 

Ordering a Quaife is taking the plunge. A Blackline is half the price.

I have 2 REAL Quaifes and a Blackline not yet fitted. The Blackline looks as nicely made as the Quaife. A LOT of these have been sold and I have not actually read a complaint.

2nd OD eats the shit out of the OD clutch EXPENSIVE !

I had the privilige of acompanying the only existing 1923 Triumph 10/20 to the 75th at Gaydon. Unfortunatly the owner Jimmy Kinghan passed away some years back and I lost contact with the car.

On 21/05/2022 at 15:52, standardthread said:

Don't Canely do an upgrade for the bottom trunnion, which, from memory is a ball type joint and sealed for life.

Often forgotten or not mentioned is to make sure the EP90 is safe to use for yellow metal (bronze, brass etc.) or it could destroy the bearings etc.

Bottom joint on trunnionless is NOT SEALED its an open spherical bearing

Completly correct lower welds are enclosed 

Noisy ? Tried earplugs ? Turning stereo up ?

13 hours ago, Davemate said:

You can remove the engine on its own from the top 

you can remove the engine and the gearbox connected from the top 

you have to loosen the bolts on the crossmember then “bounce” the car which will drop the crossmember a little which will let the sump ride over the crossmember.

ive only ever removed engines from the top

AHH I see. You might just as well drop the whole lot out the arse then. Only thing you are gaining is not removing brake pipes. Not the sump that fouls but backplate.

On 25/04/2022 at 13:29, Phil Townsend said:

The engine can be removed from the top and there is no necessity to remove the gearbox,

It was over 40 years ago

Motor MUST be lifted completly vertically first, to get the back plate over the crossmember THIS CANNOT BE DONE WITH BOX ATTATCHED.