Gt6s
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Posts posted by Gt6s
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4992 wrote:Bradley the Quaife replaces the actual diferential gear assy which is the common failure on small Triumph diffs you bolt your crown wheel to it. The 3.63 is the strongest CWP Triumph built. It is more reliable because it is capable of taking quite a bit of grunt and abuse without exploding.
Laurence,
Quaife sounds interesting, I take it you rebuild the existing Triumph diff with the Quaife in it? Basically turning it into a Triumph LSD? How does this make it more reliable, I don't quite understand, probably just being dim.
Certainly not cheap though as you say.
http://quaife.co.uk/shop/search/results/taxonomy%3A410%2C433
How do I know this ?
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Freebird wrote:
At the risk of seeming dim (not for the first or last time) - What's an ATB?
Automatic Torque Biasing also known as a Torsen differential Torque Sensing.
A LSD operated by gears instead of clutch plates. -
cliftyhanger wrote:Or subaru, though that is all a bit experimental at the moment. I suspect a few definitive answers will be emerging over the next few months
The Quaife 3.63 option is very strong and most of all straight foward though granted expensive. I find the price involved with the Quaife worth it as it does away with cold wet nights broken down by the roadside. Sometimes with a busted diff it cannot even be towed needing rescue on a trailer. Also does away with seemingly endless nights lying on your back changing diffs, been there done that.
Laurence -
4992 wrote:I'm still undecided on the rear end, what's the best Triumph diff that can handle the 2500 lump?
3.63 with a Quaife ATB in it. -
Nick_Moore wrote:
I was actually referring to the internal cylinder diameters in the master cylinder. Different diameters would mean different amounts of force being applied to the different circuits. I'm not about to strip mine down to check!
If it is of any help, I have just opened (to check) a UK spec dual circuit master cylinder seal kit and the pressure seals are the same outside diameter. -
Nick_Jones wrote:Possible, but not a lot of fun or perhaps the way to get the best result. You'll need to raise the engine quite a bit and/or remove the rack to gain access to the front end.
You may need to dunk the piston in hot water before you can push the gudgeon pin out.
Yeah I should have noted (sarcasm) when I posted LOTS OF FUN !!
And yes gudgeon pin takes a bit more than a push. -
gt6878e wrote:Hi all, i took the gt out today after fitting new rack mounts. All good with the steering but the engine started to make a hell of a racket.
Took the head off after checking the plugs and seeing one was badly damaged and one of the pistons has blown.
Can i remove the pistons out without taking the engine out the car? and what is required to take the piston off the con rod?
Many thanks in advance
Darren
Yes you can remove the pistons and rods with block in car, but it is LOTS OF FUN !!
Gudgon pin is held in with circlips then just push's out. -
Engine crane, I bought a two ton one a while back off a tame market stall tool dealer with the intent to remove the engine on a Gt6 as I cannot get into the shed which the chain block and tackle hangs.
Anyroads still not got round to it reason being a mix of avoiding Australian relatives ( a story all on its own ) and bally cold weather. -
JEASSUS MAN do something about that front spring ??).
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That_Man wrote:
In a 1500 with a block skim, yes
Gordon
A substancial skim as far as I recall. -
That pitting between the cylinders looks nasty I would be on the lookout fot another block / engine.
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irish44j wrote:
do you have a photo of how you shortened it? Cutting at the top, or the bottom?
Sorry no photos of it, just did it. You shorten the top of the dashpot just leaving enough thread to screw in the damper cap, I did this job on my lathe but could be done with a hacksaw and a file if carefull. (Better to leave into a machine shop let them do it) unless you have your own lathe also.
The piston rod just push's into the cap, you can cut the rod with side cutters.
Damper tube can be cut with hacksaw and tidied up with a file.
No big deal really. -
tiggrr1 wrote:
:-/ and possibly the dashpot on the front carb :-/
You will need to either use Dollomite Sprint dashpots on those carbs or shorten the front carb, as tiggrr1 says clearance on the front carb is an issue. However not by very much, the thread on the inside of the dashpot runs down a fair bit meaning the dashpot can be shortened, but remember to shorten the piston rod and the damper tube by the same amount.
You dont need to shorten both carbs only the front one, this is the same arangement used on my own 2.5 Sixfire so I know this works.
2500 Fast Road Engine - Where to Start?
in Engine
Posted
With the 3.27 I can cruise at 90mph doing 4000rpm with a top end of about 120mph.
Now that I see those figures the type 9 does not have much of an overdrive. A 3.27 with an overdrive will pull 25 mph per 1000 rpm. Mine on 3.63 with a higher 28 % OD and larger tyres 205/55/15 pulls 24mph per 1000. @ 5800 rpm ( shift light setting ) is 0.8 mph shy of 140 mph.
96 mph at 4000 rpm.