heraldcoupe

Quoted from Casper

I believe he is saying that if there is no easy way out, it could go either way.

Yes, that's what I meant. I always grease the trunnions with the brake drums removed so I can observe anything exuding beyond the backplate, especially when the history of the halfshafts is unknown...

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Scimher

....I went a bit berserk on the rear offside with the grease-gun when my Herald was up in the air at my pals unit - possibly 'cos I wasn't meeting any resistance.......It transpired that I'd filled the brake drum with grease!!  

This is usually a symptom of the inner driveshaft seal being fitted the wrong way around, with the lip facing inwards towards the bearing. The lip should face towards the diff end, it's intended to keep water out, rather than for keeping grease in. I know of at least one specialist who supplied them like this for many years, possibly as the result of an error in one of the workshop manual diagrams.
As designed, the seal at the hub end has the lip facing inwards, so any pressure is released with at the inboard end where the grease can be forced out past the lip. With both seals orientated so their lips point inwards, there's a 50:50 chance of the grease escaping at the wrong end.

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from thescrapman

Fit type 14, they go straight on and are better calipers.

More or less.
The type 14 calipers are a little bigger and can just make contact with the hub. Triumphs fitted with type 14s when new had the edge of the hub turned off on a lathe to give a little more clearance.

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Johnny

There's usually a few on e-bay. Don't settle for the first one you find though as the price varies quite a bit.

... as does the length,

Cheers,
Bill.

Looks like the articulated joint isn't secured either to the column or to the rack,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Tim Hunt

Under any conditions of road use my oil pressure never drops below a gauge reading of 70psi at 2,000rpm and 25-30psi at the (rather low) idle of an indicated 700rpm. I was interested to note yesterday that after around ten miles of dual carriageway, when the oil was fully warm, the pressure was 60psi at 2,000rpm and 15-20psi at idle. The oil is Millers Classic Performance 20w50 and has only done 2,000 miles. It is clear that when the engine is working hard the oil cooler is worth an additional 10psi. I have heard it said that for normal road use the 4 cylinder TRactor engine does not require an oil cooler. It may not strictly require one but I now have very good evidence that it does provide a benefit.

That's one way of interpreting the result. The other interpretation would be that the oil is excessively cooled when the cooler is in circuit, d that the oil is not reaching it's optimum temperature, remaining thicker than it should be. I would be happy to see 60psi on most fully warmed Triumph engines.
Do you have an oil temperature gauge?

Cheers,
Bill.

It's the fungus that grows in used oil...

It's the fungus that grows in used oil...

I lean towards changing the UJs and trunnion bushes as a matter of course, though getting correct bushes has become a problem. The UJs may well be OK, but pump fresh grease through and articulate them well to see what the old grease is like when it's forced out. If it looks like it's been in there a long time, assume the joint is past it's best.
Dismantle the bushes and assess them at the very least, about 70% of those I deal with have to be cut apart through seizure. The pictured shafts look clean so hopefully well maintained,

Cheers,
Bill.

http://www.rarebits4classics.net/#!product/prd12/4245964245/driveshaft-flange-(small)

Quoted from Scimher

....Thanks Bill - I shall copy your kind response word-for-word & give it to my pal Andy who has been tasked with doing it as the old gal is my normal daily runabout.......

http://www.rarebits4classics.net/#!hints--tips/cdwh

Cheers,
Bill.

OE would be 1/4" UNF, many of the aftermarket UJs have M6 threads,

Cheers,
Bill.

Remember that the driveshaft UJ has to be set VERY tight, so the shaft will stand upright on it's flange without toppling. Anything less and you need to look at replacement, or at the very least using oversize circlips to eliminate the play,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Pete Lewis

Axle and many half shafts develope a torsional memory,
so keep the n/s on the n/s and the o/s to the o/s  or you can end up with a bent one not long afterfitting it

Or commonly with older live axles, a clean break. It's good advice to maintain the orientation of the shafts, something which is all too rarely mentioned with 'our' cars,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Scimher

The only thing that rings a distant chord is that the diameter of the driveshaft, itself, changed..(they were beefed-up.) during the life of the 1200....(unless I'm imagining it...)
Will get my bid in.....  

The driveshaft remained essentially unchanged throughout production. I suspect the change you're thinking of is to the differential output shafts, these were increased in thickness with the introduction of the 13/60, in turn commonised to late 1200s,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from cliftyhanger

The solid (no sliding joint sadly) section is 31" between centre of UJ cups. I make each flange approx 1 1/2", so it would give you 34"?
You are more than welcome to it.

Yes please!
The 34" distance can be managed to some degree with shims, so the solid shaft should be OK.

Not going to Beaulieu by any chance are you?

Cheers,
Bill.

Thanks for all the pointers, much to be followed up, particularly the Dolomite.Toledo possibilities.

I'll try and keep it to BL parts bin stuff to keep things simple in terms of flanges & UJs. If I can't get to 34" off the shelf I'll cut one down to suit, but it would be simpler not to,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

Yup, but wasn't this discussion about using in a Vitesse? So a little short geared for that.

Possibly good for Herald though!

Sorry, yes. It was a tangential thought about what the gearbox might be good for, rather than the OP's intent.

Cheers,
Bill.

Stanpart 1200 wings are scarce, repros aren't worth bothering with. The latter are modified from the 13/60 pressings which you already have, but the profile under the headlamp is all wrong.

In the absence of originals, best practice currently is to use the 13/60 wings, making a diagonal cut from just behind the top front corner down to just ahead of the corner at the front of the wheelarch. Cut the 1200 wing away, leaving the corresponding front section in place. You now need to graft the old front to the new section in situ. You will need to do a little fabricating to make good any rot under the sidelight, but this approach is infinitely better than making the repro 1200 wings look anything like they should,

Cheers,
Bill.

There was one fitted to a 1200 Coupe I bought in 2001. It lasted a few weeks before falling off into the path of an oncoming lorry.
Seems my experience wasn't unique.

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Richard B

Cheers Bill. I've never seen a black ring-binder with the Spitfire MkIII included. Now I know they exist I'll look a bit more closely.

It all depends which pages have been updated/replaced. Early copies predate them, but late copies cover the Mk3 Spitfire and Herald 13/60. Amongst my literature I have a set of unused update pages for the black book, it's basically a new set of contents without the binder,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from A TR7 16V

The original workshop manual's in a number of parts, is it not?

No, this is only the case with the 948 manual, which was supplied as a set of six paperback volumes. All subsequent models were covered in the black-bound ringbinder volume, this also included coverage of the Vitesse 6 and Spitfire Mk1-3,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

Hijet (1.3L efi)
3.769 (1st)
2.045
1.376
1.000
0.838 (5th)

1-4 are very close to Herald ratios...

Cheers,
Bill.

There is a degree of adjustment in the main pivot plate, it's mounted onto a floating backplate, but movement is limited.

The factory workshop manual is an absolute essential in looking after a Herald. It's worth trying to find an original copy in the black ring binder if possible, it's more workshop friendly in having full-size pages and fold-out oversize diagrams. There's also no bound spine to get in the way of leaving pages open,

Cheers,
Bill.

Quoted from RobPearce

I don't know about the full set of possible cars, but I was fairly sure the D-type wiring doesn't connect the relay coil to earth. On all the examples I've worked on it was:

  Ignition switch  -  fuse  -  relay coil  -  gearknob/column switch  -  inhibitor switch  -  ground

Some are wired this way, others have the switching in the feed side of the circuit. A  lesson learnt when intending to use a Mk3 Spitfire overdrive loom on a Vitesse...

Cheers,
Bill.