Trifire
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Sorry to resurrect an old post but after a lot of my hours spent on the car the fault has been found and fixed thanks to Karl at KD Triumph. The car was low down on power and was seldom used, I did a few other jobs on the car over the year but just could not sort out the main issue.I spend many an hour adjusting the timing, tuning the carb, I even replaced the cylinder head with a recon unit, but I could not improve the compression. After the last MOT I decided to use the car more hoping that after a few miles the engine would bed in and improve.I even went through the process of getting another engine. I could not face another DIY engine swap so rang Karl for a quote for the work. Thankfully Karl is a very good and did a full diagnosis and went through everything that I had done and finally came up with that the camshaft had been timed wrong on the assembly of the supposed rebuild. I was therefore whistling in the dark and would of never got the lost horses back. A couple of hours in the right hands and the car runs really well, one good thing is that Karl says the engine is a good one, but i'm not too happy about who ever rebuilt it. Sam
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Thanks for the tips, I have bought an alloy rocker cover. Cheers
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My rocker cover on the Herald tends to leak and is a bit tatty. Is there any advantage in having an alloy one or is it a just a bit of bling. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Thanks guys, I have lost the use of my garage for a few months so have driven it to my mothers for the time being. The journey was 26 miles away and once up to 55 it wasn't too bad, I have O/D and this helped when I got to a bit of a hill. I better start saving up for a new cylinder head. Cheers Sam
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I have found the original details about the engine. "engine has regound crank mains and big ends( +10 ) new trust washers all 4 rods checked then bored. Rings changed bores honed head decoked and. Reassembled using new. Gaskets timing oil seals etc has run only short time since rebuild under 5 hours " I have done a hot compression test followed by wet. Hot 1 = 80 2 = 75 3 = 63 4 = 70 Wet 1 =88 2 = 90 3 = 72 4 = 98. Not sure if it is the cylinder head or I need another engine or a rebuild kit. Regards Sam
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Head measures 3 1/16th inch or 73mm and number 512248 Cheers Sam
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The car will start ok without putting any oil in the bores, and it ticks over nicely. I have bought another compression tester and have found the following. Number 1 cylinder shows 80, No 2 = 78 No 3 = 55 No 4 = 70. So I do have a problem with compression. What would the best way to resolve this ? Not keen on doing another DIY engine swap. Sam
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I'm thinking compression as well. I did buy a cheap compression tester but it did not work, sent it back but had the same with the replacement, no readings on the dial, but must have some compression for the engine to run.The engine came through a guy that was initially selling through ebay. It was supposed to have been rebuilt. I did ask about pistons and rings but he said they were fine. Buy cheap pay twice. Cheers for the quick reply.
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Update. I had the car running and it ticks over nicely with no smoke and everything seems well. Back in June I took it for it's MOT which it passed and have not done much with the car, other projects.To cut a long story short, the car lacks performance. it takes bit of time to get to 30 and it struggles to get to its max about 55. The ignition timing has been checked, plugs and coil changed, carb turned using a colortune. Its almost like the brakes are on slowing it down, but they are not. As I have more time now i'd like to remedy this but before I take it to a garage has anybody got any ideas. Cheers Sam
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Hi guys, Its been a few weeks but I'm pleased to say that the engine is running. After a few frustrating attempts to get the car started, checking the timing, replacing most of the ignition bits etc I gave up and waited for Tony my father in law to visit and bail me out. We spent a morning checking everything again but still could not get it to start. I felt pleased that it was not an obvious fault as he is a mechanic and worked on these cars back in the day. After lunch he put a squirt of oil down each cylinder and it fired straight away, a little bit of carb adjustment and it ticks over nice and smoothly. Still a bit of work to do for the MOT, but hopefully I will be back on the road soon.
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Thanks Nick, I hope to have a go this weekend. Cheers
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[quote=peterhlewis]make sure no1 copmpression stroke is actually where it is. for easy of turning remove the plugs , stick thmb over no1 plug hole . turn engin till air is pushed past thumb. now turn to align TDC pointer, Which is the pointer please, the engine is from a Toledo. I'm not sure where the pointer is. I can see the mark on the pulley, does that line up with the pointers. Thanks
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Thanks Dave, I have swapped the leads as you have suggested.I have put a small amount of fuel down the bores and nothing, it must be the timing. I was told it was timed up on no 1 cylinder and it was just a case of fitting the distributor. i might leave it for a few days and come back to it with a fresh mind. Cheers
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Thanks for the quick replies. I have a spark at the plugs, the plugs are wet. I have swapped the leads about. The leads are 1,3,4,2. is it a case of taking out the distributor and replacing 180 degrees. Cheers
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Hi all, I have spend a couple of hours on the engine and have had some limited success. I have fuel through to the carb and the fuel pump now works. I have put a new earth strap from bell housing to bulkhead. I replaced the solenoid and the starter now turns the engine over. I replaced the rotor arm and the spark seems stronger. The engine will still not start, not even a cough or splutter. I have used new spark plugs but after checking I notice that these are for the Herald (NGK BP6ES). The new Toledo engine should be BP5ES, i know this is the heat range and shouldn't really affect starting but the only other thing is timing.