Greeks

Hi all

I've used a Gunson's Eezibleed with great results on clutches in the past, but I want to use it on my brakes ... except the huuuge brake master cylinder lid on the Mk2 is much larger than the optional caps provided in the kit.

Has anyone used one of the multi-purpose caps to get the job done?

http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=3713

Or is there another way? I thought butchering a spare cap may work, but there's a vent hole.

Not interested in people's terrible experiences with Eezibleed by the way - it's by far the quickest, cleanest system I've used  :)

Better than marsupial it seems is just to get another one from Chris Witor. When that one starts wearing out I can sew a leather cover on the original.

... my car is turning into Trigger's broom.

Ok, ok, I admit it I couldn't resist it...

I just use a cheap trailer m/c. No farting around with seals just 10 quid replaces the whole unit.

Ha ha ... Mr Steering gets everywhere don't he?  ;)

You're right, it was $50 not 50 quids.

... should someone warn him about the advert for the 'Quality Black Italian' ... Jemery Claxon might get in trouble buying a container load.  :X

I can get it redone nicely for equivalent of about 110 of those funny English pounds... cheaper than any viable alternative wheel unless I can find a vgc original.

Looks like it's 50 quid to buy the leather alone if I wanted to do it myself.

:-/ I like the concept but I can't see where I'd find the time to be honest.

Great. The sun and a three-year-old aspiring Stirling Moss have ravaged my current wheel and no local auto trimmers will do wheels ... not worth the 'risk' apparently!

If I can find a decent dolly, Stag or 2500S to replace it will do fine.

I'm guessing the Stag and 2500S steering wheels are exactly the same except for the rubber insert in the middle ... but am I wrong?

I had a line made up at a hydraulics place and they definitely included a crush washer ... that said if it's working now you don't want to stuff it up again!

Could it be that you'd tightened it with the washer in place once, then realigned things and retightened?

Rather than continue the blatant hi-jacking of nang's thread about rescuing an S ... I thought it would be a good idea to start a separate thread on uprated hubs and axles.


Good parts do:

Hubs https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=347
Hubs and axles (CV joints) https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?ukey=product&productID=823

SC parts also do a CV set up (not immediately clear to me if the hub is any different but presumably it is)
http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/antriebswelle-199072.html

Dennis Vessey does hubs, but not clear if he does axles for Stag/saloon and pricing is not included on site:
http://www.vessey-classic-car-services.co.uk/triumph-tr-rear-hubs.htm

Who else is out there?

Yep - it's quite funny. If you buy from Vanguard Triumph on Vic they tell you how they're British made - the best (and they proceed to fall apart after 10 miles).

Go to CW's site and he sells Aussie made ones! Pretty sure they're the same ones.

It is annoying when they give up after a short time. Chris sells some Aussie-made Mackay Rubber components - like the engine mounts and they're way better than the cheap crap ... may be a case of you get what you pay for here.

Ermmmm ... that 10CR thing... it'll never work out.

I strongly recommend this:

http://www.equus.com/Product/5568/INNOVA%C2%AE-Pro-Digital-Timing-Light-(DIS)

I have a Drapers Tools version exactly the same but in blue - looks like they don't make it anymore and these guys do instead.

... somewhat more expensive than a new bulb, though  :P

Thanks Alec ... isn't that the reverse of the book procedure? I though they said you should jack up the wheels and apply the handbrake ... maybe i reversed it in my mind.

I'll definitely try it first though!!!

Thanks.

I think that may be what i've tried before and never managed to get right. I guess i'll try again  :o

So i've noticed a few references to the famous non-self-adjusting rear brakes on Mk2 saloons this last week.

My self-adjusters don't adjust either and, IIRC, when i've done it manually, flicking the little ratchet mechanism through the inadequate cut-out it goes too far and I struggle to get the brake drum back on and things rapidly deteriorate into the seven stages of grief in the garage:

- Shock or Disbelief (come on, they must go on)
- Denial (surely they do, i'm just not doing it right...cue soft blow hammer)
- Anger (F*)#$%^, C&)%^&$s, B$%#$% brakes!!!!)
- Bargaining (Go on, please work, if you do i'll treat the whole car to a wash.)
- Guilt (Oh dear, this is all my fault)
- Depression (Do I really have to take the shoes off to get them back in again and start again)
- Acceptance and Hope (ok, so I do, but it won't take that long, let's start all over again)  :B


Anyway, my handbrakes becoming useless again so it's time I adjusted the non-adjusting self-adjusters again I guess.

So, has anyone a fail-safe method to adjusting the buggers that will save me at least a couple of stages of grief ... please  :) (and don't say change for the adjustable ones as I'm not about to do that).

Quoted from Nick Jones

Would pictures help?

There's a video link at the top of the page  

Nick

I'm still not quite sure what they're needed for  

... or rather, I wasn't aware of the problem.

Oh God ... will anyone know my car hasn't got them?

One of the less common engine conversions i've seen...

http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=SSE-AD-2693551&Cr=0

What's gonna happen when all those parts melt 😎