JohnD

Just don't go into cities.   La Belle France has more than enough beauty and interest outside of them.  Last year, I drove over 2000 miles around France, visiting Rouen (Les Essarts), Rheims (gueux), Le Mans (CLM), Angouleme (Remparts) and Clermont-Ferrand (Charade) without a single encounter with Les Flics, then or since.

John

Eric,

You seem just the guy to go really outfield!     There was an 'official' Lucas Pi kit for the Triumph Spitfire.  I've seen one and nearly bought it, but here's a pic of one that Carl Heinlein adapted from a 6-cylinder set:

For Carl's account of Howie Didit, see: 4 Cylinder Triumph Spitfire (lucasinjection.com)

Looks like Tegleriser tried to fit a wholly modern version, but got lost: Fuel Injecting a Spitfire and/or GT6 (teglerizer.com)  and a commercial kit is available:  TriumphFuel Injection Conversion, Triumph Spitfire, Premium Kit (classicfuelinjection.co.uk)

I've used Mintex 1155 for ages.   But now that "Racing" range  has been superceded by MRM 1801 (for 1144), MRM 1802 (for 1155) and 1805 (for 1166).  They seem similar, but not identical, see:  Racing Compounds – Mintex

Being honest, even drum brakes are perfectly good when adjusted correctly and will stop you just as quickly as all-round carbon-fibre discs, unless you get them hot, by pass-storming or track work.   The critical factor is adhesion, and good tyres and a well made road surface are just as important, so unless you believe that the original, rock-hard tyres are appropriate or go gravel road rallying, think hard before you go to all this trouble.

I have Ford Capri discs on the front of SofS, matched to Austin Princess 4-pots but those were really a youthful excess.    4-pots allow larger pads, but the pressure per unit area on the disc goes down, so larger pads produce the same friction as smaller ones!    Multi-pot calipers do work if they enable wider discs (longer moment of leverage) but then you need bigger wheels which don't work with Standard Triumph  suspension.

It also has rear discs that came with the MGF rear uprights, but that was for a different reason than better braking, stronger half shafts.     No need to go to rear discs IMHO.

Good luck!

John                             

From the Workshop Manual

Some research might help you.    Kerb weight - chassis weight (70kgs?) - engine weight (160kgs?) - doors, bonnet, boot lid, wheels and suspension= bare body weight. 

Merci beaucoup, Rosbif!

Before I went to Le Man's last year, I got a CRIT'Aire sticker from the official.site for my 2002 race truck, the TRansit.  Very easy!

But probably irrelevant for a true classic.

John

There are a number of opinions on this!

 "However, classic cars, which are by definition at least 30 years old, are exempt because they only represent around 0.5% of the vehicles circulating in French cities, and are normally only used occasionally, meaning that they do not make a significant contribution to overall road emissions."   https://www.connexionfrance.com/practical/how-do-i-get-a-french-critair-sticker-for-foreign-classic-car/218453#:~:text=However%2C classic cars%2C which are,contribution to overall road emissions.

To, "Not all vehicles are eligible for the vignettes. Cars registered before January 1997 and motorbikes and scooters registered before June 2000 are ineligible, and cannot be driven at all where restrictions apply"  RAC : https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/law-change-for-uk-drivers-in-french-cities/

John

Clive,

"Stoneware" is crockery fired to higher temperature that mere pottery.   Porcelain is fired hotter still and may describe your new porridge bowls. 

The first is porous, so the interior is sealed with a glaze, but may contain water from washing, which will add to the mass of the dish and contents, so absorbing energy from the microwaves.   Porcelain is more dense, glazed on both sides by the very high firing temperature and is not porous, so the only water around is in the porridge, so it heats up more quickly.

Come on Kevin, you know more about microwaves than even three bears!

John

Can't answer your question directly, but the body is fairly easy to lift by one person at each corner.    I lifted my first's off the chassis by myself, with a hoist at each end.

But that body is so light because without the chassis it's weak.   Do not try to 'rotisserie' the shell without the roof, and the Workshop Manual recommends strengthening the joint between rear tub and bulkhead by a length of angle iron in both sills.

John

Ric,  to help you appreciate the results of the changes you intend, the number attached to the different differentials refers to the gear ratio they apply.  It should be given in full as 4.88 ( or 4.11) to 1, often written as 4.88:1.

This means that for every 4.88 turns of the prop shaft, the rear wheels will turn once.   ( Or, vice versa) So you can see that the OE Standard had a lower "final drive" gear than the Herald.     Thus, moving off from stationary is easier, but you will reach top revs at a lower speed.

In cars as old as ours, that have been through so many owners, it is worth checking that they still have the original ratios.   Strip out your interior so that you or an assistant can watch the prop shaft.    Having marked a rear wheel next to some solid indicator point, push the cat through one wheel revolution, while counting the propshaft revs.  "4.88" will be  bit under five, while "4.11" will be a bit over 4.

Good luck!

John

Looks to me that you gave plenty of stud left to weld a nut to.   That, if you leave the welder on as long as possible will heat the study. Then release agent.  NOT WD40!  I'm impressed by "Innotec".   Several cycles, even build up a rim around the stud with clay/ plasticine to make a pool or rhe stud.  Leave it, let it soak in.   Then "eeeeeease" the stud, work it to and fro until it moves.

I think that later/posher OE bumpers were made of aluminium.  They were pop-revitted  to the valance.  LARGE pop rivets to spread the load.

You could do the same, but I'd recommend a washer behind the GRP for the same purpose.

Good choice, Lucas!    I can't help.you, I'm using mine, but suggestbyou get along to your local area group meeting, CT, or TSSC.  They will know of local opportunities.  Usually at a pub, but summer is coming and they will.meet outside!  If you can't achieve your ambition, look at the TSSC's Youth Loan Sceme, for when you do get your licence.  See  https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/news_final.asp?news_ID=88

John

It isn't Classic this year.  CLM used to alternate, on the even  year, but the Centenary edition of 2023 has put that out.

Next CLM 2025.

John 

21 hours ago, Kevin R said:

I have never done this myself before so at risk of sounding totally stupid this is only a SUGGESTION..

Turn the 1/4 shafts 10 rotations which would amplify the output to approx 39 / 36 which would be easier to see the difference.  Would need the help an assistant.  🤔

Would it work ?

Confuses me!    If you're turning the quarter shafts, then you must be counting the turns on the INPUT flange, that bolts to the prop shaft?

John

They're doing it again!  Not for charity this time:

I don't think that Louis the Xteenth ever attended a motor racing event.

Bleu de travail?

Oh, come on! Alpine use blue BECAUSE it's French Racing Colour, worn by Ballot, Delarge, Bugatti, SEFAC, Delahaye, Talbot, Gordini, Matra etc etc etc, since long before even colour photography was possible!   Alpine and Renault were late comers.  See "French Racing Blue" by David Venables: Stella & Rose's Books : FRENCH RACING BLUE Written By David Venables, STOCK CODE: 1608560 (stellabooks.com)

4 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said:

 a 70's french racing look on a racing green Triumph. 

????? The French racing colour is BLUE!  

Don't want to appear jaundiced, but....

France instituted yellow headlights over eighty years ago.    It was either so that the French Army could see if the Germans were moving at night or else for the Germans to see if the French Resistance were about, stories vary!   But got rid of them in 1993.   Do you want to - can you legally? - still use them?

John

3 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said:

Before i put a 12v sensor and 10 bar pressure gauge, reusing the former gauge. (Indicates around 7bar as oscillating btw 6-8. I wish i could have a better stabilized reading)

Link to T union provider in France

frenchie

the pressure does oscillate.  I made a pressure gauge from a spare oil pressure gauge, and it oscillated so much it oscillated the needle off the stem!   You need a damper.  The best gauges are oil filled to do this, but I did it by inserting in the connector a copper disc with a tiny hole in the middle of it.     I drilled from both sides until I could JUST see a tiny chink of light though the hole.

John 

Yes, and yes !

Here's mine:

In a Vitesse, the tank sits in the wheelwell.    The Facet keeps the swirlpot full, and that feeds the Main  pump.

Re: on board GPS.   I was helping in Rally HQ at the Malcolm.Wilson Rally, where for the first time they were using SportTRAXX car monitoring.  This uses on board GPS to locate the cars, and mobile cooms to transmit thatbto HQ.

Ralies are often in hilly country or where mobile coverage isn't good.  The system.was wholly different (and better) than the old ways, but it was amusing to.see cars stop and then move at light speed to the next area where the system could catch up with their progress.

John

Adrian,

 I don't know about a "job lot" but they will all be 5/16", 3/8" with a few 7/16" in UNF thread.  Lots to buy on eBay.

BUT , there may be a case for replacing a few with stainless, but NEVER in a stressed or 'mission critical' application.  SS is more likely to fracture than mild steel.  See: https://www.yubisteel.com/difference-between-stainless-steel-and-mild-steel/  Para 6.

John