frad

Thanks for your replies New coil fitted today and car run for a while coil getting warm rather than hot so will have to see how it goes. Mick

The last coil to pack in was a Lucas 12v non ballast sports coil I have now purchased an accuspark high power sports 12v non ballast coil. Just concerned I'm going to have the same problem. Thank you Alec just what I thought, the alternator kicks out nearly 14 volts so the coils should be able to handle that. Maybe at higher revs when the coil is charging and discharging quicker 14 volts is manageable. Just thought the voltage regulator may be faulty and the output should probably be lower on tickover. Would things like points and plug gap cause coils to get too hot or even a dodgy condensor cause problems ? Thank you Mick

Hi When I removed the ballast resister I changed the coil to a 12 volt one and am now on my third. Thank you Mick

Hi I switched to a 12 volt coil setup on my sprint engined spitfire a few years ago and have since had problems with the coil getting hot and occasionally failing altogether. This happened again yesterday, after having the car running for a while on tickover setting up carbs etc. When I turned it off it wouldn't restart. Checked the coil which was hot and had leaked cooling oil. I stuck another coil on and it started and ran ok. On checking the voltage at the coil it was nearly 14 volts with the engine running on tickover. After it happend the first time I pulled out the electronic ignition and went back to points as I thought that may have been causing a problem. Is the alternator causing the problem or should coils be able to cope with the higher voltage. Bit of a risk on a long drive at the moment stopping for fuel etc. Any help or ideas appreciated Thank you Mick

Hi Beans, just reading through your blog looks like you had the same problem as me with the oil seal moving away from the bearing. Did you have any further problems with this or is it just a case of making sure it's seated properly.

Hi Beans, just reading through your blog looks like you had the same problem as me with the oil seal moving away from the bearing. Did you have any further problems with this or is it just a case of making sure it's seated properly.

Thank you for your quick reply That is the same way it was fitted and how it looks in the dia so I will refit the same way. Just thought oil seals worked the other way round.

Thank you for your quick reply That is the same way it was fitted and how it looks in the dia so I will refit the same way. Just thought oil seals worked the other way round.

Finally have had to sort the water pump on my dolomite sprint engine. The oil leak was bad enough but when it started chucking out water as well it had to be done. Pulling it apart the oil seal had moved up the cage which explains the oil leak. My question to all you knowledgable folk out there is which way round should the oil seal be fitted ?  I thought that the side with the spring round it goes against the bearing so facing down this one was fitted the other way round which would explain the leak and the seal moving. I have looked at the exploded dia which doesn't make it clear, so thought I should check before rebuilding it. The seal is No 148501 on the dia. Thank you in advance for any help. Mick

Finally have had to sort the water pump on my dolomite sprint engine. The oil leak was bad enough but when it started chucking out water as well it had to be done. Pulling it apart the oil seal had moved up the cage which explains the oil leak. My question to all you knowledgable folk out there is which way round should the oil seal be fitted ?  I thought that the side with the spring round it goes against the bearing so facing down this one was fitted the other way round which would explain the leak and the seal moving. I have looked at the exploded dia which doesn't make it clear, so thought I should check before rebuilding it. The seal is No 148501 on the dia. Thank you in advance for any help. Mick